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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo
By: Ben Burnett When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Watch your rope!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Bur-Har-Bur (5.9)
By: Ben Burnett When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dirty and debris covered when we climbed it. Bring a whisk broom up there on a quiet day.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Metamusso (5.11a)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think we climbed this [1 route right of Dangle], but the description and picture seem off. [Eds. now relabeled & moved] The guidebook seems off too - or maybe there is a new route.
Short, easy slab to ledge followed by 2 bulges; finish up and right. Upper bulge has hollow flakes. The bolts just over each bulge seem too far to the left- perhaps due to rock conditions.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Loves Me Like a Rock (5.8)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steep for an 8. Would be fun if you weren't worried about killing your belayer with rockfall. In fairness, we pulled nothing off, but that might just be because we were extra careful given the shattered nature of the rock.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : CJ & The Lesbian Seagull (5.8)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wonder when that block will come down....
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Aspiring Frog (5.10c)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt placements give you freedom to climb on or off the arete as much as you want and control the grade from 10- to 10+.
I love climbing big features like this!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Guilty By Association (5.9)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not good for a beginner, but bolts are well placed if you are comfortable at the grade.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Karma Mechanic (5.10b)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Start right behind a skeletal tree (dead), which makes for a good cheater foot hold if you're not tall enough for the initial reach.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Hot Spur (5.8)
By: Ben Burnett When: Feb 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route with lots of variations. The slanting crack to a pine tree is pretty easy to spot, but from there, you can choose a variety of features. We climbed straight up from the pine on a series of finger cracks winding through trees near the top to a big ledge - all 5th class. To the right of the 4th class gully, a left-facing dihedral with an old pin goes up to a roof. Escape right and head up to another bulge near a thin flake. Easy run-out terrain leads to a rubble ledge. I went up th... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : At Fault for Chattery (5.10b)
By: Ben Burnett When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: In need of an update - I certainly didn't want to fall on any of those bolts!
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Honey, I Shrunk the Hemmorr... (5.7)
By: Ben Burnett When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun! Start to the right in a crack for added interest. Bring a few hand to finger-sized cams and skip most of the bolts - particularly that spinning coldshut!
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Bitten by a Manpris (5.11)
By: Ben Burnett When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shares start with Energizer on a low, black wall - "breadknives" is a good way to describe the runnelled rock.
Next climb the tan arete on the left with a thin crux midway up.
Finish by angling right across the face to shared anchors.
8 bolts, but the 2nd is loose and missing a hanger - you can use a runner to clip Energizer's bolt.
Good climbing, but watch out for a couple of loose holds.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Pesko Sour (5.11a)
By: Ben Burnett When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cleaver moves gain a beautiful corner that starts obtuse and narrows higher up. Unfortunately it has a contrived finish on broken rock to sketchy anchors in fractured rock. Finishing on the route to the left looked like a good idea and would likely make this a logical 3* route.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Taos Hum (5.10b)
By: Ben Burnett When: Nov 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few hazards on this one....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Anthill Direct (5.9 R)
By: Ben Burnett When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Original p.1 was way sketchier than p.3. P.3 has better rock, better gear and easier, more secure climbing. The bolt on p.1 was just bizarre - it seemed to be located in the middle of a less-run-out section. The original start is worth doing once, but so far I've liked every other way up to the lower meadows better.
Otherwise, this is a fantastic climb! You can head up 400 ft of scrambling on the East slabs to reach the crest or access one of the towers or the Chockstone Chimney raps.
Al... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : The Bat (5.9+ PG13)
By: Ben Burnett When: Oct 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG Plenty of gear, but there were a few pieces I didn't want to test. Probably wouldn't get hurt, though
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : The Inset (5.4 PG13)
By: Ben Burnett When: Sep 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Description" above makes little sense, but the "Location" is correct. The inset refers to the panel of rock that is set back into the wall somewhat - bounded by dihedrals and a roof. The inset is easiest if you start on the right side, but exciting moves can be found by starting in the middle or left side of it. Pass the roof on the right and either continue up and right to the Slot or move left to a small roof and right-facing dihedrals.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Beaks and Feet (5.10a)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easiest and best route on the wall!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Extra Crispy (5.10b)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I bet if it didn't have all those bolts people would call it 5.10c.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Chicken Head Ranch : Finger Lickin' Good (5.11a)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nowhere near 5.11, the crux might be on the "5.9" 1st pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Trouble And Strife (5.10c)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Plenty of gear on this one and the swing fall is no problem. WARNING GEAR BETA: Green Alien, red C3, red #1 C4 in initial creck, yellow #2 C4 / green #0.75 C4 at horizontal jug, blue #3 C4 past the hand jam (or other possibilities on traverse), red or yellow C4 in top cracks, optional green C4 protects the second above the moves. There's a good boulder thread for TR without going all the way up to the Star Wars ledge/tree.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Sickle (5.8 PG13)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easily protected the whole way, especially if you bring a #4 Camalot or similar. Fun but short, crux at bottom.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Fickle Finger of Eight (5.8)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 30 ft are clean and beautiful, and an easy downclimb can be done from the ledge. It'd be classic if it were on a long route.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Off The Cuff (5.6 X)
By: Ben Burnett When: Aug 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun, easy climbing, guarded by some lichen and loose blocks. Gear is sparse on top, but the crux is at the bottom. Makes for a good 100 ft pitch to the summit ridge.
Take RPs and micro cams. A tall leader can get in a piece from the top of the decapitated flake before continuing on.
Located 8 feet left of the clean "Fickle Finger of 8", left-facing dihedral. Start at a short overhand with a wide slot in it. Head for the obvious OW and tree reaching out at the top.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Ranck E (5.10-)
By: Ben Burnett When: Jun 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short and fun.
High, spinning, rusty, 1/4 inch first bolt can be backed up with a #1 Camalot in a pocket.
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