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Jayy-Dogg on rappel


Member Since: Oct 11, 2006
Last Visit: Jul 23, 2014
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Point Rank: # 3,934
Total Points: 110
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 170 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 25 | Posts 128 | Stars | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Evolution (5.11b)
By: BDergay When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: Haha- "panty bolt".
Toastally....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X) : Photo
By: BDergay When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: "And this hold came from the first pitch... and this hold came from the 2nd pitch crux... and this hold came from...."


Location: CO : Durango : Golf Wall : Right Side : Par Six (5.11a/b) : Photo
By: BDergay When: Jan 11, 2012

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Comments: Hottie!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: BDergay When: Nov 30, 2010

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Comments: That's what happens when you show up with an Eggman.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 15, 2010

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Comments: Dude.... there's that Polish guy chiming in on East A again... wtf?!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 11, 2010

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Comments: Yeah.... I'm kind of a fat ass....
Snapped some webbing. But I think it was more the length of the fall rather than the fatness of my ass...hehe.
But it was the biggest fall I've taken.... Kuss saw it- he can verify that it was a big one... (the fall, not my ass).


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: Hmmmmmm... touché.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: Whoa Mut! What's this: "I agree that East Animas is not the most epic place" I seem to recall someone taking a whipper on shower during their first lead that was epic enough to knock them out!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : North Chasm View Wall : Photo
By: BDergay When: Nov 10, 2010

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Comments: No prob-- I think I scanned this from Layton's book a few years back....


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Nice job! Somebody get Max AND Mike a beer!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 9, 2010

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Comments: Nice job, Max-
Somebody get that guy a beer.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Oh my gosh, Laura (or Kevin hiding behind his wife's acct)-- my heart weeps along with you! This is such a sad, sad, sad day for Durango! We should be ashamed of ourselves to question retrobolting!! Boo-fucking-hoo!!
If you want maturity, here's two hints:
1. Don't get involved in climbers' debates.
2. Bring something to the table other than a sophomoric attempt to make people feel guilty.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Oh! Wait a minute! The discussion is still going... whew! That's good, because I just wanted to add that this will get chopped. Period.
Sorry, Kozak -- whether it was you or Dave Waggoner who did the FA- this route has become a canon of the East A experience.... And comfort bolts put in 30 yrs after the FA will be rejected. Sorry.


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Oh man. I was going to mention to T Ferrell that since he's all about giving out "English lessons", that he should at least know a little bit about grammar and punctuation.... But dammit, that Kevin guy has ended the discussion....


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: "People who have done this route have some pride attached and the bolts certainly take that away."
True that!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: Well if Kozak says, "bolt it"... who cares? I heard that Dave Waggoner did that arete in the early '80s.... Did anyone ask him his opinion? Granted we can't now...but I seem to recall Dave being more towards the "clean climbing" side of the debate....

(Per your earlier suggestion Kevin, I've been trying to learn a bit more about Durango climbing history....)


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: If you want to make it more fun, add a water-slide and a titty-bar. But adding bolts will only turn a classic East Animas head-space lead into yet another 30 ft long bolted 5.7... whoop-dee-do! It'll be like bringing a little bit of x-rock up to East A.... Are there not enough "fun" bolted routes within 50 ft of the arete for you?

Regarding not clipping the bolts if one's opposed...how many times has this been hashed out on this site...? Tell you what- how about I start using some of the ledges... more >>


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : The Black Arete (5.8)
By: BDergay When: Nov 8, 2010

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Comments: An afternoon stroll up the Black Arete is a beautiful thing... but you adding bolts to an existing route is NOT! And the people yelling at you were correct: if you bolt it, it will get chopped.

Furthermore, if you can't rise to the occasion, perhaps you should stick to something a little more pedestrian. Don't bring it down to your level.

And exactly how is your bolting it, "the least it deserves"? The arete "deserves" bolts so you can climb it? People have been climbing (and enjoying) that ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Skunk Canyon : ... : Purgatory (5.6 R)
By: BDergay When: Oct 24, 2010

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Comments: Woo-hoo! Did this today...just bouldered it out- but honestly...a rope would be kinda worthless on that 2nd pitch...very committing climbing, steeper than it looks, and a bona fide "X" route. But also some of the best rock I've seen in the Flatirons.... Have fun!!


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Apple Cider : Contortionist (5.11d)
By: BDergay When: Oct 2, 2010

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Comments: Oh Man! An East Animas ethical debate, and I missed it! Fuuuuck!
And what's up with some Polish climber chiming in on East E?!
What could he know about Southwest trad sandstone routes??


Location: CO : Durango : East Animas : Watch Crystal : Watch Crystal Crack (5.10d)
By: BDergay When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: Funny stuff, Eggman!
But dood, that's the best pic of Watch Crystal you guys have got? Someone aiding it? Really? Really??


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: BDergay When: Jul 30, 2010

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Comments: Hey, guys - regarding the start: I went back to my photos from the day I was there -- Here's a beta pic where I outlined the course I took. The red dot is the start of the original 3rd pitch. Looking back...yeah, maybe not a 75-80 foot traverse (sorry, didn't have a rope that day. So, the distance might be a tad attenuated in my memory) - but I remember traversing, with a slight ramp I went up and back down, to get to the 3rd pitch belay...from that belay, I remember the route-finding a little ... more >>


Location: TN : The Tennessee Wall : T-Wall East : Exposed Aggregate (5.7)
By: BDergay When: Jan 4, 2010

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Comments: It's a little steep, but aside from one or two flarey jams, it's super positive.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Northcutt-Carter (5.7)
By: BDergay When: Sep 21, 2009

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Comments: You can start this route by going up the wide crack/squeeze chimney on the Kor-Van Tongeren Route just to the right of the scar. Head up as if you're starting the Kor-Van Tongeren, then after emerging from the squeeze chimney (5.8ish) you do a pitch left (75-80 feet), staying essentially level and you'll come to the old anchors/slings that were the original Northcutt-Carter 3rd pitch start. From there, follow the above description.

I did this route a few weeks ago- AMAZING! Do this route!! The... more >>


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Bob's Rock
By: BDergay When: Oct 11, 2006

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Comments: 75 feet might be pushing it....