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Member Since: Jul 13, 2006
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,080
Total Points: 161
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
15 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Bart Paull been climbing?










Contributions


All 160 | Routes 4 | Areas | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 22 | Stars 40 | Ratings 37
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Desdichado (5.13+)
By: Bart Paull When: Mar 10, 2011

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Comments: This is a very cool route worth the shenanigans to check out .... C. Griffith put this one up ahead of its time ....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : The Industrial Wall : Judon't Wanna Go There (5.13c)
By: Bart Paull When: Jan 29, 2011

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Comments: This is 13c++ if you are 6' tall or so, as your knee doesn't really fit in any of the crucial kneebars....


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Eurotrash (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: This is an awesome route!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Anti-Phil Wall : Philibuster (5.12d)
By: Bart Paull When: Aug 29, 2010

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Comments: This one is kind of atypical for Rifle, sustained crimps with no rest for a few bolts. It feels harder than Eurotrash.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : River Run (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Nov 8, 2009

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Comments: Can someone hook me up with some beta for this route? It's just pretty damn weird and slopey up there ... Thanks!

Update - figured this one out. Taping the right pinky was nice.

Bart


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Flying Cowboys (5.12d)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 31, 2009

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Comments: Yes Jonathan, you missed something. Just climb a bit left at the ledge level. You get a decent 3 finger crimp up high and left with your left, and your right hand rides the edge of the ledge. Right foot up on the hold you dyno to, and rock over comfortably. This flows nicely into the top section, allowing you to blow off the rest if you want. Personally, I think the top of this route is just as fun as the bottom with good moves making it not over 'til it's over. Now, if you directly mantle... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : s00kr33m (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Great continuous route! Nicely done!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Hairstyles and Attitudes (5.12b/c)
By: Bart Paull When: Apr 9, 2009

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Comments: A good way to set up for this route is to belay about one third of the way up the second pitch of Outer Space, below the start of the prominent dihedral. This belay takes smallish gear, TCUs, nuts, etc. From there, climb the dihedral on Outer Space with some long slings, and then cut left onto the bolts of Hairstyles and Attitudes. Using this method you can take this pitch all the way to the top of the Bastille, and it's one of the best pitches in Eldo!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Stone Cold Modern (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: tcam - Your beta seems impossible! Do you move to the crimp just to the left of the last bolt with your right hand with your left hand on the sloper with the slopey edge in the back? Heinous!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Rubble (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Apr 7, 2009

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Comments: Anyone have beta for the bottom of this route?


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Stone Cold Modern (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Apr 5, 2009

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Comments: I do the top a bit differently ... I find the "thrutchy" move to be move to the jug with the left hand near the anchors. But, now that you mention it, the move up to the right angle undercling/pinch is a bit of a thrutch as well - a bit like performing a sloppy front lever midroute ... I have been gaining the decent sloper with my left and the blocky undercling pinch with my right, then bumping my left hand left to the middle of the "arete" to a spot with a small thumb catch. I then readjust... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: Bart Paull When: Apr 5, 2009

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Comments: Interesting, I find Public Solitude much harder than this route!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Penis Dimension (5.10c)
By: Bart Paull When: Mar 20, 2009

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Comments: The super trick beta is just to stack, which is not a trick at all but a go-to, everyday, standard offwidth technique....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Head Like a Hole (5.12d)
By: Bart Paull When: Mar 14, 2009

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Comments: Great route. It's not any harder if you don't use the "loose block" at the bottom. Packs a punch as all the business is towards the end, and it's steeper than it looks! Very solid at the grade, more difficult than several other 13s in the canyon in my opinion.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Public Play (5.13c)
By: Bart Paull When: Mar 10, 2009

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Comments: This is a very logical linkup and the best line on this part of the cliff - avoiding the stemmy finish of Public Solitude in exchange for classic slapping thuggery....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Sex Cave : Stone Cold Modern (5.13b)
By: Bart Paull When: Mar 9, 2009

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Comments: This is a great route, but better if you take the Head Like a Hole finish. The Rubble finish is just extremely thrutchy at the end with the stab to the painful pocket jug. Fun route with lots of trickery....


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Squeeze Play (5.13c)
By: Bart Paull When: Feb 24, 2009

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Comments: This is a great route, with two really fun cruxes. What holds are people using at the first crux if you are calling it 13c? Do you step up on the slab as for Sucking My Will to Live or are you doing some abstract moves up and left into Public Solitude? I used the "hard to see two finger crimp" described in the beta by Chris Deulen above, but did not cross right hand to the next higher crimp - instead I just went straight up onto the "slab." I want to get a sense of what holds people are usin... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Nomad's Cave : Pizza Dick aka Mother Natu... (5.12c)
By: Bart Paull When: Feb 17, 2009

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Comments: Definitely not soft for the grade if you are taller than 6'- the start is awkward as hell and has a very powerful foot move on it. For munchkins, it probably wouldn't be too bad. From the jugs, it's not too bad but a little pumpy ... actually making it a great warmup/second route of the day if you just pull through the thrutchy start.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Fourth Of July Crack (Hard ... (5.12a)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 31, 2008

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Comments: This is one of Vedauwoo's best routes. As far as the top offwidth, if you know how to stack, it's casual.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Ghetto : Hunting Humans (V8)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 28, 2008

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Comments: "I think taller people can even keep the kneebar and go twice with the right hand -- razor blade, then bump to an ear"

I'm 6' 1" and can't quite do it this way, but I have tried a lot ... ! I will go back with a spotter and try the heel hook beta ... Thanks


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Ghetto : Hunting Humans (V8)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 26, 2008

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Comments: "Go high and right for a razor sidepull (keeping the kneebar -- pants help), then hook your left heel on a sub-hueco/flake left of the main hueco ..."

Do you keep the kneebar while getting the heel hook, or do you release it? This is a really strange move....


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Big Baby (5.11)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 23, 2008

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Comments: The gear beta for the route isn't totally correct. You can easily fit a #6 Wild Country Friend or new #6 Camalot in the crack for about half the route. If you only have old #5 Camalots they will be very tipped out. I would recommend two #6 Friends or Camalots. You can also use #2 Bigbros for much of the route, and there are a few spots where a #3 Bigbro will work.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Hole in the Wall (5.11-)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 22, 2008

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Comments: The offwidth flare section halfway up is classic chicken winging, left side in ...


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Ghetto : Hunting Humans (V8)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 9, 2008

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Comments: I figured the kneebar was key, the orange-ish pebble is total crap without. Thanks for the beta, I'll be going up there soon with some pants, and maybe a pad!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : The Ghetto : Hunting Humans (V8)
By: Bart Paull When: Oct 8, 2008

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Comments: This is a great problem, with cool features and beautiful stone. But how the heck do you do the crux? Meaning, how do you get from the hueco to the ear holds? Seems way hard in my opinion.... Help please!


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