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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Satterfield's Crack (5.8)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Aug 29, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you take the boulder exit to the left of the big protruding boulder at the top of the first picture, you come out on a ledge with the belay, rap anchors. Otherwise if you take the cave/offwidth route right of the boulder you will either need to set up a belay station and walk on a narow sloping ledge over to the rap anchors, or belay someone over since the exosure is a little high even though you can literally walk to the rap anchors form there. If you have two ropes you can get to the grou... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Satterfield's Crack (5.8)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Aug 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got to watch my #4 Camalot walk out of the large crack above the first belay. Makes you feel good to hear it clinking down below you. If you place the gear deeper it is a lot easier to find placements for smaller gear, #2-#4 cams. Just bring a lot of 24" slings to make life easier. We did this in one pitch with a 200' rope without any real problems with rope drag. Going through the cave/offwidth section at the end really sucked. If possible I would say go with the bould... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edward's Crack (5.7)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Aug 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: One pitch with a 200' rope was not a problem. Just work out belay signals with the secnd because you are out of sight over the bulge and out of earshot if there is any wind. Also if you are doing it in one pitch watch the rope after the normal first belay ledge, the crack is deep and will eat the rope and give you more drag than you might like on the bulge move.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Femp (5.9)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Aug 28, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 the 5.4 variation has a lot of loose, large boulders on it. Watch out what you grab up by the tree.
Pitch 2 is an endless, straight, gear eating crack without a lot of good rests. It ran about 185'.
Pitch 3 version C as listed above brings a lot of rope drag into the picture since you travese out left from the belay for about 30 feet before turning a 90 degree corner into the 5.8ish dihedral. Variation C is all about stemming once you get around the corner and runs about 180' in len... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Feb 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: number 1
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : A2 Route (A2)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Feb 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: number 4
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Alcove 5.9 Route (5.9)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Feb 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Number 3.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : Illegal Smile (5.8+)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Feb 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: number 7
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : No Chute aka Rip Cord (5.10a)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Feb 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Number 6.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : True Religon (5.10c)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Feb 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Number 5.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jan 19, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: GPS Coordinates for parking lot:38.63233 deg N105.22389 deg Welevation 6721 feet
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jan 14, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: For a small crag this place if full of quality routes. It was spared by the Hayman fire and is always fairly cool in the summer. Quality south platte rock.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress...
By: Barrett Cooper When: Sep 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The way we were told to find the trail for the approach was wonderful. From the parking lot take the right(counterclockwise) paved path that leads you under Durrance and follow it to the USPS information sign for the fallen tower. From there walk 70 paces, the trail leads up to the left. It works every time and if your paces are smaller than mine the trail is ~70 paces at a point where the paved path starts going back up after dropping down a hill.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Durrance (5.7)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Sep 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would also recommend the 5.4 approach up the first pitch of Wiessner's Route for getting to Durrance. A better idea of where this begins is to walk along the path until you reach the viewing tubes for the old wooden ladder that was used to help climb the tower. The 5.4 first pitch of Wiessner's (that ends at two anchors 20' below and to the right of Durrance's first pitch) starts directly above the viewing tubes. Just take a b-line through the bushes and you will land directly on the start ... more >>
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : North Gateway Rock : Place in the Sun (5.8)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jul 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 60m rope does not reach the ground. What you can reach is tourist gully and then it is a downclimb to the ground. I would suggest rapping to the anchor you started out on and then rapping to the ground from there.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : Beginning of the End a/k/a ... (5.9+)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Verified it finally, the pin was pulled by the looks of the hole where it used to be.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Kindergarten Rock : End of an Era (5.8+)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jul 1, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The hanger on the second bolt is gone. You can take up a small nut and use it as a replacement hanger or reach right and use the old pin on the face climb (I forget the name but it has a pin about 5 feet directly right of the missing hanger) for protection.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Osiris (5.7)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jun 25, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree belay ledge at the end of the normal second pitch is just over 195 feet off the ground. So when you get up to it and the rain pours in on you, you can escape with two 60m ropes and rap to the ground. If you only had one rope or two 50m ropes you should be able to rap to the first belay ledge and then rap again to the anchors for Georges Tree route below and to the right of the first belay ledge.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Wadsworth Boulevard (5.10c)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jun 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Runouts on the top were not as bad as I expected. It may be they added a bolt or two or that it just seems tougher after pulling the two ledges.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes... : Chronic Bedwetter (5.7 R)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jun 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: So what is up with the runout? I mean it is a little hairy on the last couple moves when you are 50 feet above the last manky bolt, even if it is 5.2 to 5.6ish rock depending on the line you take. IMHO skidding 100+ feet down that slab would really suck. If someone has the means to put something in, I wouldn't complain.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : North Cheyenne Canyon : Silver Cascade Slab aka Hes...
By: Barrett Cooper When: Jun 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is 180+ feet to the trees on the top of the routes around Chronic Bedwetter so a 60m rope is a must.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff
By: Barrett Cooper When: May 29, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: If the chain is down take the rough road from the hairpin turn up to the parking lot at the base of cactus cliffs. It is all of 100 yard to the rock from there. There is room for a dozen or so cars if people would quit parking all crazy.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Twin Spires : South Ridge, White Twin Spi... (5.6)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Apr 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was suggested to me that the easier way to go is over the left side of the bulge above the seond pin. I tried it yesterday and it is a lot easier. Thanks for the beta Sean
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gallery : Menses Prow : Lick My Love Pump aka Love ... (5.10b/c)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Apr 10, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The way to determine this climb is to find the right most, waist high, bolt with the hanger and belay from there on the ledge. The climb goes directly up from there. The climb all the way to the right on the ledge can be led from the ground or from the end of the ledge but does not have a belay anchor up on the ledge.
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Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Barrett Cooper When: Apr 9, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The large boulder on the second move off the ground (right about where the climber is standing in the attached photo) is really moving now. Last year it was a little loose, and when I went up the route today it was all over the place. It felt like something I would not like to pull out on and have land on me or my belayer. So use caution getting to the first eyebolt as the rock is a big sucker.
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