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Member Since: Sep 25, 2009
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Barrett Stetson


Point Rank: # 3,439
Total Points: 123
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Contributions


All (142) | Routes (4) | Areas | Photos (10) | Comments (33) | Posts (1) | Stars (76) | Ratings (18)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Franny's Folly

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (9)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

MA : Leominster Area : ... : Main Face

Aug 14, 2011

The Philidelphia Story

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Jul 19, 2011

Retlaw

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Jul 19, 2011

Crack Of Senility

5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b (4)

Trad, 1 pitch, 60'

ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice

Jul 18, 2011

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Looking up the climb

Looking up the climb

NH : Square Ledge (Pinkham Notch... : The Prize (5.5)

Jul 24, 2012

top of p2

top of p2

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Moraviana (5.7)

Jul 24, 2012

Looking down the climb.

Looking down the climb.

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Moraviana (5.7)

Jul 24, 2012

Looking up the climb

Looking up the climb

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Moraviana (5.7)

Jul 24, 2012

Lower Slab

Lower Slab

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : lower slab

Jul 24, 2012

Good line showing the route.

Good line showing the route.

MA : Leominster Area : ... : Franny's Folly (5.7)

Aug 14, 2011

Start of the climb.

Start of the climb.

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : The Philidelphia Story (5.7)

Jul 19, 2011

The roof, head left underneath it.

The roof, head left underneath it.

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Retlaw (5.7)

Jul 19, 2011

The start of the climb.

The start of the climb.

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Retlaw (5.7)

Jul 19, 2011

Beginning of the route.

Beginning of the route.

ME : Acadia National Park : ... : Crack Of Senility (5.7)

Jul 18, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: ME : Acadia National Park : The Precipice : Story of O (5.6)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jun 27, 2013

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Comments: There is a nice looking crack to the right of the start of the 3rd pitch. Does anyone know what this is? It seems not far enough right for vacation cracks, but when I looked for vacation cracks from the description in the guidebook I wasn't sure I saw that either.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : 50-50 (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 16, 2012

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Comments: First half of P1 was fun, and I didn't think the gear was too bad if you had small cams, but then it just turned into ledges with pine needles and rock with a little bit of green lichen with less interesting climbing. I think I ended up off route on P2, going through a bunch of spiderwebs and dirtiness. At one point I looked down an saw where I was probably supposed to go but didn't want to down climb. If you go about 50 ft to climbers right you can find the Ursula rap.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Bombardment (5.8)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: Went back to try Age Before Beauty and couldn't quite get myself to trust my feet, but was able to cheat through it hauling on draws without too much trouble, so it is cheat-able. Worth it still, love that second pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Sixish (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: Found all pitches to be pretty fun and the protection to be G with the exception of the pitch 3 traverse. I kind of got a 00 mastercam in, but my girlfriend said when she cleaned it only one lobe was in. Not really a big deal since the traverse has good feet, but if you have a second who might get nervous on a traverse with a swing, might be scary for them. Might not be great with 2 seconds either. Going up through the notch felt awkward for the first move to me but was well protected and ea... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Harvard (5.2)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 14, 2012

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Comments: Don't think this is a good climb for a new leader. A couple of awkward moves, ok gear, but almost a guarantee of rope drag. Other than the initial move through the slot, nothing exciting.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : The Saigons (5.8)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Was surprised that neither the old or new guidebook seems to mention the fact that you won't make it straight to the ground from P1 rings with a 60m. Anyone ever rap off the end of their rope there? Even with our 70m we had about 10' or so before ground (going straight down), so I went back up a bit and came down far left and could just hit the top of the dirt gully. Really fun face climbing though, P1 protects super-G at cruxes and P2 is still G, but if you fell from the crux before clipping... more >>


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Lower Left Wall / Ventilato... : Fun House (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Aug 5, 2012

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Comments: Great route, protects plenty and especially where you need it. The start of the first pitch was a bit damp/slimy when we were there too, guessing it doesn't dry out as quickly as the rest of the route. Probably a good idea to anchor your belayer before starting P1, a bad slip on some dampness before your first piece could take you both for an unpleasant ride.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : b. Jackie and friends : Dennis (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I think he might be talking about the P2 variation that joins up to the top of Belly Roll. I unintentionally ended up doing that variation when I did it.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : lower slab
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: Went up the crack on the left side to get to Moravania. Very short, takes a few pieces, and felt more like 5.2. There was one bolt at the top. You can easily just walk up around the lower slab by going left and following a path up.


Location: ME : Acadia National Park : South Bubble : Upper Slab and Upper Wall : Moraviana (5.7)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Jul 23, 2012

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Comments: P1 (from top of lower slabs up to railing) is probably only about 5.4. The 5.7 section is probably only the last 30 ft of P2. Takes plenty of pro where you needed it. There was a threaded rappel at the top when we were there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Red Pillar (5.5)
By: Barrett Stetson When: Oct 10, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: P1 - I did end up in ledge fall potential momentarily after the pillar on this pitch. At some point you can lay back on a hold and jam a cam out left and you're good from there though. Climbing wasn't bad right there, so while a little freaky, not bad.

P2 - Very easy climbing for first half leading to a surprisingly fun finish.


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