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Canadian Rockies Ice 2008.


Member Since: Apr 10, 2006
Last Visit: Feb 25, 2014
Contact Avery N


Point Rank: # 903
Total Points: 689
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
111 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Avery N been climbing?










Contributions


All 832 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 127 | Page Improvments | Comments 44 | Posts 658 | Stars 1 | Ratings 1
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sabbatical Wall
By: Avery N When: Dec 1, 2010

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Comments: Finding the 'carined' trail isn't straight forward if you haven't been here before. If I recall correctly, the first place I saw the trail begin to be marked was where the t rail faintly (yet first notably) begins a few feet southeast of the largest, most predominant erratic.


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pico de Orizaba : Photo
By: Avery N When: Sep 26, 2010

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Comments: The snow used to cover most of that during November months... hope that is a seasonal and not permanent change.


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ice Cave Walls : The Bumble Bee (5.9)
By: Avery N When: Jul 3, 2009

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Comments: I seriously wished I had a few small-med sized nuts for between bolts 2 and 3. Definite decking potential when clipping the awkward 3rd bolt.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Avery N When: Jun 25, 2009

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Comments: The original name of this climb was "The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wheel."


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Good for the soul : Photo
By: Avery N When: Jun 17, 2009

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Comments: I'm so jealous. My plants are < 2' tall, and it's due to this seattle-like weather!

Okay, back to installing the drip system (yes, I think the weather's gonna change!)


Location: Monomaniac : The Lazy H Climbing Gym : Photo
By: Avery N When: Jun 17, 2009

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Comments: Nice training room!


Location: Avery N : Random Stuff for the Forums : Photo
By: Avery N When: Jun 15, 2009

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Comments: That was the least fun I've had since I spent months rolling in the insulation, about 2 months ago!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Reynolds Hill : Moor's Crossing (5.6)
By: Avery N When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Harper and Kelman do not call this 5.6, unless you take some runout variation that looked to be blocked by a large bush. While no one move on the standard route is harder than 5.7, the typical 5.7 leader might be intimidated by the climb unless they had #6 camalots or were very comfortable climbing chimneys and long runouts.

Recent rappel anchors have been set at each pitch. Slung chockstone on P1, slung horn on P2, and bolts on P3. However, rappelers beware: P1 and P2 have numerous oppor... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Northeast Cutoff (5.5)
By: Avery N When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Harper and Kelman indicate this is 5.7, with the crux being at the 10+' blank traverse. Based on my experience, I'd say that seems reasonable (the climb is not rated 5.5, though most of it is at that grade).

Despite the climbing being easy, I don't know that a beginning leader would be comfortable with a 10' pendulum potential. Of course, since it's a mostly horizonal traverse -- it's the same for the second.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway : Kitchen's Delight 2 (5.7)
By: Avery N When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: I think the description above takes the easier variation on the second pitch (Low Road, 5.2 per Heel and Toe).

First pitch -- can't say first-hand (we started with Croissant), but it does begin on an obvious crack from behind the huge boulder.

For the second pitch (Kitchen's Delight, not the variation listed above). Step just right of the belay. Head up the offwidth 15' to a roof. Traverse right under the roof (crux, mostly small cams) until you hit the beautiful (but easy) vertical hand/fist ... more >>


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Good for the soul : Photo
By: Avery N When: Jun 3, 2009

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Comments: That is sooo awesome -- makin' me hungry! And... you guys have a really long growing season... jealous.

No kidding on the ridiculous amounts of rock to excavate. MINE'S BIGGER!!! Checkout this pile that I dug out last week... glad that's done!

Pile-o-rock that was under the garden.
Pile-o-rock that was under the garden.



Location: Brad Brandewie : Personal Photos : Photo
By: Avery N When: Jun 1, 2009

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Comments: Owen's a lucky kid! How cool would it be to have grown up with parents that dragged you on climbs or outdoor adventures?


Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : Good for the soul : Photo
By: Avery N When: May 30, 2009

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Comments: Awesome! They say: "the first year you plant tomatoes, is the last year you don't plant tomatoes". I can confirm that! Just getting my garden planted now -- after excavating probably 1000lb of rock! Be sure and post some update pics later this summer...


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : ... : Photo
By: Avery N When: May 19, 2009

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Comments: Old school Camalots. Nice!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Avery N When: May 18, 2009

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Comments: Jason,

"FYI, the loose flake is still there, but it looks as solid as it can be."

I'm not sure what flake you are referring to, but the major, loose flake on the crux pitch has been gone for a while now -- at least since 2006.


Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4)
By: Avery N When: Mar 21, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for the kind words, jfox.

Hmmm... I think mainly persistence through the course of the trip -- as going up and down the mountain several times can take its toll. Perhaps a bit of patience, in case you get hit by bad weather.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: Avery N When: Nov 27, 2008

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Comments: Did this on 11/23 and, as Jack mentioned in the Area comments -- it's in decent shape. Avy potential on approach was low. The first pitch is definitely 'mixed climbing' with a few challenging/runout moves, as the ice existing there is definitely detached and thin; at the crux, much of the ice for feet has been knocked down. The upper technical pitch is pretty fat.

Also, on 11/23 the Notchtop descent gully was the best I've ever seen it. Just enough snow to fill in between the rocks an... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Avery N When: May 5, 2008

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Comments: Pins on the upper traverse... today there were three, and it looks like the second one (an angle) is pretty recent + solid. You can get a smallish cam near the third pin, but that seems to be the only decent placement, until you make it above the traverse. Ruper is the definition of classic.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Photo
By: Avery N When: Apr 17, 2008

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Comments: Clearly, the climbing is SO good here, that folks just stop and never leave.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Photo
By: Avery N When: Mar 6, 2008

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Moraine Park/Fern Lake Trai... : Jaws Falls (WI4) : Photo
By: Avery N When: Jan 3, 2008

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Comments: The lower rappel is 30m up (requires a 60m rope with stretch) and contains at least 4 pins + stopper. According to the photo on Eli's site -- the upper rap station is 40m off the deck. When we TR'd it, the left WI5 column was not wet for the portion shown in this picture -- but it was fantastic ice.


Location: Avery N : Stuff For Sale : Photo
By: Avery N When: Dec 15, 2007

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Comments: China? YES. These are actually 'New' cams with a 'retro' design and look. Direct from China, and dragged behind one's bike for 5 miles to give the rugged look.

The post is very old. Perhaps 2000 years. Nope, they're gone and went the day I posted. I just haven't deleted them, because then the forums have a big red X in them. Actually, I'm just lazy.

Odd how the most comments I have on photos come from a 'for-sale' pic of old Camelots. Next?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake - West Gully (WI4)
By: Avery N When: Nov 25, 2007

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Comments: I was up on the west gully on 20071111, and found the rap anchors right of the third pitch to be in rather bad shape. I previously called this the second pitch as I usually climb it in two pitches.

In this picture, it is the upper most rap station and is labeled as "Rap 30m".

The anchor is comprised of a solid nut, 2 pitons in the direction of pull (one of which continued to drive bottomless when I hit it), and someone h... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Photo
By: Avery N When: Oct 12, 2007

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Comments: That does look burly, but the cams defying gravity might give your secret away!


Location: Mike Willig : Pics : Photo
By: Avery N When: Sep 17, 2007

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Comments: Wow, that's some really over-hanging ice. Funny how the draws don't obey gravity! Photoshop fun, eh?


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