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Member Since: Oct 29, 2012
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Austin Sobotka

Point Rank: # 3,397
Total Points: 197
Last Year: 68
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Austin Sobotka been climbing?










Contributions


All 307 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 11 | Page Improvements | Comments 87 | Posts 8 | Stars 113 | Ratings 83
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Booted from the Galley (5.12)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 21, 2016

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Comments: Booted from the Galley is a great line, and without a question a worthy contribution to one of Southern AZ's best crags. Huge thanks to Andy and friends for polishing this gem!

As Andy mentioned, the line can be done on mostly gear, skipping the first three (perhaps also fourth?) bolts as well as the bolt at the end of the crux dihedral. However, for the first three bolts, care will need to be taken to find the best placements. I personally tested the gear in the crux dihedr... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Coherent Excitation (5.11 X)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Finally got on this thing today. The rock that you climb on is actually really good quality, but the rock that your pro goes in is (mostly) pretty questionable. I wasn't really planning on leading it today, but decided to give it a go after Crow's Nest. Anyways, I only had some nuts/hexes and three microcams with me. As such, it's pretty spicy. Having some more cams (micro and finger/tight hand sizes) would have taken some of the sting ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Crows Nest (5.10b)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 27, 2016

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Comments: Great climb! I can't believe it's taken me this long to get on it. I linked all three pitches, and rope drag wasn't an issue at all. Extend long and try not to place directly beneath the roofs.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Bad To The Bone (5.12a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: Fun route with lots of interesting, delicate movement. Definitely not spectacular, but also not at all bad.

I'm really not sure what I think about the grade. On my onsight attempt it felt real hard for .12a, but once I hung and looked around a bit I found some hidden holds that made everything quite a bit easier. The crux, for me, was up high, and was essentially a move or two of hard slab, but not .12a hard slab. Also, there's pretty good resting stances throughout most of the climb. That bei... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Crime and Punishment (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Redpointed today. Felt harder than histo, but I was also pretty hung over... Either way, a great climb.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mount Carmel Tunnel : Headache Area : The Headache (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 20, 2016

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Comments: Did it on almost all passive gear (5 cams placed in total) and could have done it all on passive had I brought more slings. Every pitch eats nuts and hexes. Don't bother with the big stuff.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sandstone Samurai (5.11a X)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: Got on this last Sunday as my first route on Black Velvet and was surprised to find that almost all of the hardware had been upgraded. A great route and not nearly as serious as expected. To me, X has always meant that the most probable outcome of falling would be death, broken bones for R. By that standard, the route is not X.

Actually, both my partner and I felt that the safety ratings, pitch by pitch, were a bit backwards. On P3, for example, there really isn't any gear besides a small nut ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Red Arch Mountain : Shune's Buttress (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 19, 2016

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Comments: Beautiful route, and definitely soft at .11+. The ow is hard though, definitely hard.

For gear, we had doubles to #2 camalot, singles of 3,4,5, and assorted nuts. This felt totally fine. We had some micro cams, but didn't place any.

After the two raps from the summit, get over to the arete and rap from there down to the drilled angles. From the angles rap to the anchors near the arete at the base of the ow, and from there to the ground. Some micro beta for rapping: situate your knot so ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Stems and Seeds (5.9-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Did the first pitch then went right on the big ledge and up a ringlock crack, which was real fun (maybe the top of trapeze?)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Pretzel Logic (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Got on this thing today. Turning the lip felt pretty easy, reaching the first handjam, however, felt hard. I'm 5'9" and the best way to get to it was to dyno (which is pretty damn painful). There might be some better beta that I missed, and I'll definitely get on it at least once more. The roof protects on all finger-sized pieces, but you'll probably want at least one #1 and #2 to build an anchor.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : Flyboy (5.12c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: Took a few runs on this today thinking it was 12b (that's what my partner told me it was) and didn't think he had sand-bagged me. Also, one of us took a fall on the fourth bolt and noticed afterwards that it had partially pulled out from the wall. We took the hanger off so that nobody else gets on it and pulls the rest of the bolt out. This is a really fun route and definitely deserves (and needs) upgraded hardware!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Jimmywacky (5.11d)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Nov 14, 2015

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Comments: Pitch one is definitely the money pitch; `130' of varied, thought-provoking, and challenging climbing on great rock. Pitch two isn't bad, but lacks the rock quality and continuity of the first. The initial ~40' of the second pitch contains continuously hard, thin climbing, after which there's ~130' of easy climbing to the anchors. We rapped from the top of the second with two 50m ropes and barely got back to the anchors on pitch one (note: the rap line falls about 20' left of the ancho... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Vineyard Cove : Jacob's Ladder (5.7)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: Rumor has it that three hooligans engaged in a shroom/alcohol induced midnight free solo of this route this past beanfest. Hip belays and hand rappels were said to have been employed, creating an effective illusion of safety.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Devoid (5.10 X)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Nov 9, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the most unique, badass, and wild climbs I've ever done. It's definitely not for the faint of heart, but if you think you're up for the mental challenge then quit wasting time and go get on it: you won't be disappointed!
P1: There is a bolt visible from the ground, but this is the second bolt. I made the mistake of aiming for it and nearly climbed past the first bolt, which was just below and about 20' right of me.
P2: There is a bolt visible about 30' right of the belay. This i... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Lumpy Unmentionables (5.11- X)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Alex!
Some info on the route:
The first pitch is definitely not .11-, more like .11+, possibly .12-, depending on how you do the traverse. The climbing itself is really good and includes technical stemming, laybacking, some burly chimney-esque moves, and a super-delicate and burly traverse/mantle to finish. The rock quality isn't great, but it isn't horrible, either. Geir and I definitely cleaned up most of what needed to come off. The pitch also protects really well, but it does take s... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Cap'm Pissgums (5.10+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: I'm not usually one to up-grade a route. In fact I think that, generally, I'm prone to down-grading. That being said, to rate this route 10+ is a total sandbag: this is one of the burliest routes I've ever been on (which includes an ".11+" offwidth (Matricide, Skillsaw crag)). Here is my pitch-by-pitch review:
P1: Intense, burly stemming from the moment you clip the first bolt. At one point I ended up in a legitimate iron cross, with my right hand palming a lichen covered sloper and my left pres... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Sensory Desuetude (5.11a R)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: TJ and I bagged an onsight ascent of this beast yesterday. This is really an amazing climb that deserves more attention. However, the R/X rating applies to the crux, so be sure that you're solid at the grade before getting on it!

As for gear: we had doubles to #1 and singles to #4. Some offset cams/nuts would probably make the crux pitch feel a bit more secure.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : ... : Crosscut (5.10-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Sep 4, 2015

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Comments: Fun little route. Agree with Jimbo that it's not 5.10. More like 5.9.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Jimmy Dean (5.11)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 18, 2015

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Comments: Did the first pitch only. The first 30-40' involve slightly overhung and thought-provoking climbing. After that, though, it turns into a really easy (5.7ish) and slightly vegetated crack/corner for the remainder of the route. A good warm-up/cool-down for the area.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Rogue Planet (5.12c)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: The climbing on Rogue Planet, especially on the second pitch, is some of the most cryptic and beta-intensive climbing that I've ever done. It's also some of the best. The crux on pitch one felt like solid .12 to me, although others have suggested an easier rating. If you're really good at thin, technical arete climbing it may not feel so hard. Pitch two had three distinct cruxes for me, each one easier than the last. The real battle, however, was putting it all together; in 130' of cli... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Horse Of A Different Color (5.11a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The line is at times non-obvious and wanders around to either side of the bolt line. That being said, the climbing itself is really good and the position, especially on the second pitch, is great.
Rapping after the second pitch was a bit difficult: the line of descent is quite a ways out from the lower anchors and leaves you hanging in space. I had to swing my partner over to them from above. If you want to do the second pitch it's probably best to lower the leader back to the belay. Otherwise ... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : If I Only Had a Brain (5.10)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: Goes on gear to the last bolt just fine (not clipping the last bolt will put you in a position to take quite a ride if you fall on your way to the anchors). Bring doubles of finger-sized pieces and some small and medium sized stoppers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Vahalla (5.11-)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Wasn't sure where the first pitch was supposed to end. I ended up climbing most of the second pitch before running out of slings and gear (My last few pieces were extended by linking cams together). I eventually decided to traverse directly left to the anchors for Business as Usual. The rope drag at this point was pretty horrible. Still not sure where the first pitch ends and whether it is a gear or bolted belay. On another note, the route is really fun, especially the traverse and the flake/cra... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Loki (5.11+)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: I got on this without really any information about it, and it definitely felt natural to stop at the anchors for Asgard. The climb itself is pretty good with a short and tenuous crux followed by some fun chimney/slot climbing. I was fairly surprised to get online and find the route listed as .11+. Felt more like mid .11 (Hairlip, around the corner, is quite a bit harder, imo). Can definitely be done with a single rack to 3' and some stoppers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 7 - Upper Highway : ... : Ma'adim (5.12a)
By: Austin Sobotka When: Jul 14, 2015

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Comments: Rain quarantined us to the North face of Neptune today. So, After Arc of a Diver (which is awesome) we decided to get on the first pitch of Ma'adim. It's quite a bit harder than its neighbor, which is supposedly .11c. Assuming an accurate grade on Arc, the first pitch of Ma'adim seems to deserve a solid .11d. If the rest of the route is as good as its first pitch this might just be the best trad line on the mountain! I guess I'll have to come back to find out.
As for gear: I had a single rack a... more >>


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