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Member Since: Jan 22, 2010
Last Visit: May 17, 2015
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Total Points: 152
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has attila been climbing?










Contributions


All 118 | Routes 9 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 44 | Posts 5 | Stars 49 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Simple J Malarky (5.7)
By: attila When: May 5, 2013

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Comments: It's best to set up the anchor at the end of P2 near a couple of fixed nuts at your feet. You can also see an old, unusable tricam with a shredded pink sling jammed in the crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: attila When: Feb 16, 2013

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Comments: Unless I did another route by mistake, (I don't think so) this is a one pitch route, about 50 meters. Good route on quality rock. I think the crux is getting off the deck; the footing is a tad awkward.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Yurt Monkey (5.8+)
By: attila When: Dec 27, 2012

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Comments: Take a BD #1 and BD #2 along to protect between the run out bolt placements.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Turkey Chute (5.8)
By: attila When: Feb 23, 2012

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Comments: One rap ring is missing, but you can easily rap from As The Crow Flies anchor/rap (down and left).


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Maranatha Area : Beginners Only (5.7)
By: attila When: May 16, 2010

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Comments: A walk-up to a slick section which isn't fun and then average climbing to the top. Don't understand my partner's enthusiasm for this route. Clean and takes pro well, but nothing special.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Overlook Buttress : Out to Lunch (5.8)
By: attila When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: This is an overlooked classic. Bold, strenuous moves on juggy, well-protected rock.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Overlook Buttress : Gunky Heaven (5.6)
By: attila When: May 2, 2010

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Comments: Chossy, dirty, unavoidable rope drag. Not worth it, despite a few nice moves.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Front C (5.6)
By: attila When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: This seems to be regularly treated as P2 of Le Gourmet (what my party did), since there is a belay station. A fine route, but, nothing special.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Critter Crack (5.6)
By: attila When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: This is perhaps the most strenuous 5.6 I know of. Sustained, excellent rock quality, good pro. I'll do it again.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Conn's East (5.6)
By: attila When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: This is NOT as great of a climb as some claim. Yes there are some cool moves, like the crux on P2 and the vertical section of P3, but it's kinda like Old Lady's route with a couple of 5.6 moves thrown in. A lot of strolling traverses on ledges - though I won't complain about the ledges providing comfy belays.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Ecstasy (5.7)
By: attila When: Apr 11, 2010

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Comments: My guidebook describes this as something like "exciting but never outrageous". That's a perfect description. There's one spot on P2 where your only pro option is an old piton. Other pitons are in spots where you can place your own gear and not rely on these god-only-knows fixed pieces. There are no bail-out points without losing gear. Once on, you're committed. So climb with a proven partner! This climb is wonderful, do it even if you have to wait. Rappel from Ecstasy Jr. just around the corner.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : Bonglett, The (5.10a)
By: attila When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: The only safe way to do this route is on top rope. The move above the first horizontal is totally height dependent. The shorty (5'1") in my party got shut down cuz there's only one usable hold for the left hand (which she couldn't reach)to balance the right hand mantle.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - North Face : The Bong (5.4)
By: attila When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: I'm trying to figure out why so many people gush about this climb. Other than getting past the little roof, the climb isn't very interesting. The downclimb to climbers' left looked a little intimidating but there's a spot where it's easy, though a rap station would be welcome.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Upper Right Ski Track (5.3)
By: attila When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Protects well, a fun route. Just take medium and large cams, maybe medium nuts and you're good.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Dappled Mare (5.8)
By: attila When: Feb 26, 2010

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Comments: Tip for pitch 3 leaders; load your gear on the left side of your harness for easier access while going up the crack after the traverse. Our guidebook indicated this is a 3 pitch route, but we ended up doing 4 pitches cuz I ran out of draws with about 40 feet to go.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : N00b Rock : Hamms Down (aka Chipped Sue... (5.7)
By: attila When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: I disagree that this is barely worth roping up for. Though short, this is a fine TRed friction/slab route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Ranch Hand (5.6)
By: attila When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: You can also walk left to anchor/rap off of Honky Justice. This is a fine route that protects easily.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Party in the Desert (5.10b)
By: attila When: Feb 24, 2010

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Comments: In my opinion, this route is at least 5.11 off the deck. Our party of 3, all solid 5.10 climbers, was shut down on the start of this route.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Pony Express (5.9)
By: attila When: Feb 20, 2010

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Comments: There appears to be a bee's nest near the anchors for this climb (Feb. 20 2010).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Czech Crack (5.10a)
By: attila When: Feb 20, 2010

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Comments: There appears to be a bee's nest near the anchors for this climb (Feb. 20 2010).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Exfoliation Confrontation (5.9)
By: attila When: Feb 20, 2010

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Comments: The bottom, vertical portion of the climb is fun, but there's no joy in the upper portion walk-up. I wouldn't prioritize doing this one; fine if other routes are taken.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Corral Wall : ... : Six-Gun by My Side (5.10a)
By: attila When: Feb 20, 2010

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Comments: This is a very satisfying route. Perhaps this is overlooked because the climb next door is considered the classic of the crag; this one shouldn't be missed. Beautiful setting, good edgy moves, and it's even comfortable belaying from the anchor. Short climbers may want to pass on leading this one, as some clipping stances will be very difficult.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Eschar (5.4)
By: attila When: Feb 17, 2010

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Comments: If you can manage the first moves to get onto the low shelf, you'll be fine. The route takes large cams fine (save some for the anchor!).


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : Overhang Bypass (5.7)
By: attila When: Feb 17, 2010

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Comments: What a treat to find water-filled huecos at the summit. What a beautiful spot! Taller climbers will have an advantage exiting the trough on P1 as well as the traverse on P2. Holds are bomber. Pro is solid. The leader for P1 used a Black Diamond #2 to protect the left exit out of the trough. I used #.75 and #2 Black Diamond cams to protect the traverse on P2. Fun!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: attila When: Feb 16, 2010

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Comments: With the footwork this climb demands, this is a perfectly named route. All holds are super solid, except the flake below the first bolt.


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