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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : All Chalk And No Action (5.12a)
By: ASENDR When: Jan 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: About 90% of the people i've seen climb this thing start out of the corner. I think it's harder that way. Incedentally, the jug did not break off, it was pulled off by a local hardman. I still think ALL CHALK is still 12a.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Closed Casket Variation (5.11c)
By: ASENDR When: Jan 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was climbing the coffin just after the new hardware appeared and a long time local was there also. It was told to me that the line that was now newley eqquipped with fixed hardware had been done long ago free without the fixed hardware. I was just wondering if the one who placed the new hardware looked for any kind of permission and if it was done ground up as was the the "the viewing". I had top roped the line before it was bolted and thought it fun but not needing bolts. To be more to the po... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 5, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Correction. That would be p-2 & p-3 that can be combined w/70 meter rope.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Mexican Crack (5.10a)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have found that a sweet palming move with the right hand in the bottom dihedral makes things a bit easier. The move is a little insecure, but there is good pro at your waist. I noticed the ring pin just above the dihedral is deformed! I always clipped the sucker but never wanted to test it out. That thing is older than I am!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 70 meter rope will get you to the belay ledge for the last pitch. You can sling a small ledge on the last pitch arete for additional pro. If you do rap you can combine raps 2 & 3 w/70 meter rope but barely.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : JHCOB Wall : Outside Corner (5.7)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great exposure. P-1 & p-2 can be done as one pitch stretching a 70meter rope. Belay just over the top under the big boulder, using a hand size cam and a smaller one
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Schoolroom West (5.7)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70meter rope we wre able to climb the route in one pitch with simu-climbing from 20 ft above the big pine tree at the last lower belay. Good pro and a nice direct line up the buttress.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Crescent Crack (5.7)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one goes great in one pitch with a 70meter rope. A little simu-climbing, but it's all when the leader is walking down the final ramp to the chains. What a fun little off-width it has.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Beckey's Wall Area : Tingey's Torture (5.8)
By: ASENDR When: Oct 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My girlfriend and I did sweet janes to tingeys torture in 4 pitches with a small amount of simu-climbing on p-1 and p-3 w/70 meters of rope. 3hrs truck to truck. This was our 1st time up the route. I thought the walk off was not to bad to discern. Fun route for cruisin in the hills. At the top behind the small cleft in between the little bolted summit pitch and the main buttress is a real nice wind protected spot where the goats like to chill. Good view of the black peeler slabs. We did the 2 sc... more >>
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