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Member Since: Jan 19, 2011
Last Visit: Sep 11, 2014
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Point Rank: # 2,546
Total Points: 209
Last Year: 16
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has ascender30 been climbing?










Contributions


All 114 | Routes 12 | Areas 2 | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 30 | Stars 50 | Ratings 4

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Cockfight (5.9+ PG13)
By: ascender30 When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: At the first right-facing corner, it separates at the bottom into a detached flake...which is loose. I suggest you don't pull hard on it.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Tooth : Tooth Fairy (5.9+)
By: ascender30 When: Apr 17, 2011

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Comments: Some info on P2 and the "hand crack". You leave the P1 belay by turning the corner to your right, and following an easy ramp/crack up and right to the base of a 22' left-facing corner. There is indeed a crack along the corner that gradates from about .25 to 2 inches. This short section, in my opinion, is quite technical but well-protected. I suggest really jamming your right toe in the crack and relying primarily on that point of contact. The left face is essentially featureless and good on... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Dona Ana Mountains : Checkerboard Wall : Knight's Move (5.8)
By: ascender30 When: Mar 20, 2011

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Comments: GREAT route! I consider it a must-do if you trudge up to Checkerboard. Agree that you want to be solid at 5.8 to lead this one, but it's reasonably protected the whole way, with a couple of short, exciting sections. Fun!


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : ... : Photo
By: ascender30 When: Mar 15, 2011

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Comments: Fantastic route! Did it back in 2004, and it was a grunt...especially after the hike in at altitude. To protect it well, bring 4x4" pieces.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Southern Comfort Wall : Lowenbrau Light (5.7+)
By: ascender30 When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: Use long slings to avoid drag and you don't need to stop at the "Natural Belay" in the photo. It's around 165' to the "Gear Belay". The option from there to the left and up the right-facing corner is fun and easier than it looks from below.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : The Citadel : The Nose (5.9)
By: ascender30 When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: If you rap down from the slings over Finger Zinger, a 60m rope will NOT reach the ground...but it WILL reach a tree that you can climb down :)

So if you want to Top-rope FZ, you'll need a 70m rope.


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : The Citadel : Clem's Folly (5.7)
By: ascender30 When: Mar 14, 2011

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Comments: The Dihedral of the first pitch is certainly worth doing, but unless you need to get to the top of The Citdael, I suggest rapping down from the top of P1. If you do top out, head left (South) about 60' and find rap anchors on a slab at the top of the gully that is South around the BIG corner from Clem's Folly. Double-Rope rap down into the gully, then SLOG down and bushwack across to the Clem's Folly start (not recommended).


Location: CA : Central Coast : Pinnacles National Monument : East Side : Discovery Wall : Lithium (5.11b)
By: ascender30 When: Feb 21, 2011

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Comments: Concur that the lower section is tough, but fun. Yet the runout to anchors, although easy 5.6, is on typically VERY suspect Pinnacles. Any slip off this un-protected section, and you would scrape (painfully) down and over the bulge, then fall to the ground no matter what your belayer did. Why not put a bolt about half-way through this runout?

I wouldn't repeat the climb.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: ascender30 When: Feb 19, 2011

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Comments: Easy 5.4ish....but about 40' runout