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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pet Trackers (5.10a)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shares anchors with P.D. Time. The anchors are wearing thin from people toproping so please use your own equipment. The start of this climb may feel tougher for those with less reach.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : P.D. Time (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I posted this route as 5.7 because thats what it is listed as in the guidebook but I wouldn't recommend this route unless you're comfortable on 5.9. This was the first 5.7 I've ever climbed that had a bail beaner hanging off it.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak : (07) Randy's Wall : (13) Motion Activated (5.7+)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done both sides and I think you have to stay right at the 3rd bolt to keep it 5.7.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Easy Slab
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Making the second clip is pretty exciting as the bottom of this climb is covered in moss. After that its enjoyable 5.4 climbing to the top. Very slippery after the daily afternoon thunderstorms.
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Location: NM : Gallup/Grants Areas : Mentmore : New Side : (01) East Corridor Wall : (03) Twig but No Berries (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty tough for a 10b. It makes me wonder if the sandstone holds have lost edges with use as several of the climbs at mentmore that are slab had moves that seemed much harder than their grades. If you're expecting 10b wipe the sand off your shoes hope you're tall enough to reach past the thin stuff.
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Location: NM : Gallup/Grants Areas : Mentmore : New Side : (03) Wall of Dreams : (01) Flakes Don't Fail Me N... (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm 190 with no finesse and nothing broke so go for it.
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Location: NM : Gallup/Grants Areas : Mentmore : New Side : (03) Wall of Dreams : (09) Crescent Moon (5.10d R)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best routes on the wall if done as a toprope. Unique moves up a beautiful arching sandstone finger crack. I found the crux to be pulling past the 5th bolt over the top as its mainly slopers up there.
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Location: NM : Gallup/Grants Areas : Mentmore : New Side : (04) The Balcony : (05) Betty's Redemption (5.8)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well protected with the toughest moves being below a low first bolt. After that the grade is 5.7 to the top.
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Location: NM : Gallup/Grants Areas : Mentmore : New Side : (04) The Balcony : (06) Crow's Feet (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux is between bolts 2 and 3 and felt more like 10d. Watch out for loose holds in the horizontal above bolt 2.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Walt's Wall (aka The Outsid... : Bloodline (5.8 PG13)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 7 bolts. Bolts 2-3 and 4-5 are pretty run out but the climbing is 5.6ish between. Fun climb.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Mr. Wind (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like many of the moderates at Penitente the guide book grade assumes you levitate over the initial moves. Tough climb for a 5.7 unless you are very comfortable on slab. Anchors are wearing thin at the top.
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Anatomy 101 (5.10)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jun 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't lead 5.10 and had no problem setting this up. It goes 5.8. Great route with an obvious mantle move above the high first bolt. Rightmost route on the wall.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (17) Ogopogo (5.10a)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Overhanging moves down low which will be the crux for those who struggle on the pumpy stuff. 5.7 stretch leads to a more balancy slab that is significantly easier if you use some holds out left.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (16) Cookie Monster (5.8)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent moderate route. Long and varied climbing. Thought clipping the anchors was a bit difficult for 5.8. Don't miss the hidden pocket left of the anchors which makes life easier at the top.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Mavericks
By: Arthur Sullivan When: May 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fair enough, I'll change my comment. Don't climb here, no fun, very illegal. Better to buy a permit and go hunting.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : (02) Mini Wheats (5.6)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the easier 5.6 climbs I've been on and I spend quite a bit of searching out easy climbs. Great first lead. Only feels 5.7 if you climb it on a rainy day.
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : (14) Sending Data (5.9)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Mar 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still pretty loose. I had to move pretty quickly to avoid getting beaned by a large hold that came off last time I was there. The start may have been 5.8 at one point, but its solid 5.9 moves off the ground now.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas : (06) L Unknown 1 (5.10b)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5 bolts, with one more bolt after the crux below the anchors. Watch the Z clip at the anchors. My favorite climb on Arniel with some balancy feet and sequency pockets, followed by an undercling traverse and a bouldery crux move. A little bit of everything. If you like Juckets and Bugs on the Major wall, try this climb.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas : (05) Muffin Top Aerobics (5.9)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 4 bolts. Going left from the undercling at the bottom is more challenging but does not follow the natural line. Also possible to stay right of the 3rd bolt to ease the crux. Of note, its possible to climb past the anchors over the arete to the right to the easy finish on the 10b/c if you don't climb at that grade but would like to set up a toprope. You'll pass one bolt before the next set of anchors.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas : (04) Whale Tail Pilates (5.9)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Getting up to the jug below the third bolt is the crux with tricky feet and a left hand pull that could be more difficult if you're short. You can go right or left above the 4th bolt with easy climbing either way. Runout, but no obvious loose rock.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Las Hermanas : Unknown North Arete (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Mar 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Contact me with route name and FA and I'll be happy to add it in.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Jan 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a somewhat detailed description of the hike in on the internet. Just takes a search engine and a little patience to find it.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : (14) Liberace's Anus (5.9-)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Big jugs with several rests if you want them. Crux is moving left past the second bolt. Climbers with reach will find this easier.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Major Wall Area : Major Wall : (15) Prickly Proctologist (5.7)
By: Arthur Sullivan When: Dec 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun lead w/ one easy runout that will take a nut if you want to protect it. Cactus will attack you if you stay too far right. Great way to set up top rope on Liberace's.
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