Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Long Canyon : The Shipyard : Electronic Battleship (5.10)
By: Armin When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "old style" #4 BD worked great at crux, my new C4 was little tipped out.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Long Canyon : The Shipyard : Shipwrecked (5.10a) : Photo
By: Armin When: Nov 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is shipyard the climb on the left in this pic?
|
Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone
By: Armin When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kirk (and others) thanks for all of your hard work and $$ investment, well worth it! It was nice meeting you this evening.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : ... : Photo
By: Armin When: Jun 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: including myself, I wonder how many of us on here at mp have whipped on that great pin?
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Steamboat Springs
By: Armin When: Mar 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Headed there this weekend, anyone have current conditions?
Thanks!
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Slip Sliding Away (WI4-)
By: Armin When: Feb 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone know route and FA info of the mixed/bolted route just right of the main ice flow. Feels about M6 WI5, chain anchor at the top. Highly recommended.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Bridalveil area
By: Armin When: Dec 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did BV this past Monday. The directional bolt is easy to miss, since we had to dig it out of the ice. As you rap from the second set of anchors, it's on your climber's right about 20-30 feet down and diagonal.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Watermark
By: Armin When: Sep 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: To R.R. and J.J.: thanks for your hard work in this area!
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10) : Photo
By: Armin When: Sep 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll need to cite your source for that claim, and I need a better camera with a zoom lens.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Scarface (5.11)
By: Armin When: Apr 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: was easier for me NOT to tape up on this one, (I have small hands) the inside is quite worn, so your hands won/t actually get too torn up, enjoy.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice
By: Armin When: Mar 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fang yesterday, very intense crux/finish, 4+ lot hooks until the crux, last chance to bail via nice v-thread w/ biner and then overhang move to gain last 20 feet of dead vertical ice, not
hooked! You can bail off the v-thread w/ 60m just barely though. I'd give it WI 5-. Also Dez looks like a block swiss cheese, and 7th tentacle is reforming strong and looking good.
|
Location: Gregory Schrodt : Just Pics : Photo
By: Armin When: Mar 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: was this the day of your unplanned bivy? :)
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed
By: Armin When: Feb 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Skylight area: 1st pitch Skylight all ice 2+/3- 2nd pitch fat, Choppo's Chimney is in, took 17s most way, Slippery When Wet and Slip Sliding Away; fat observed from below. Gravity's Rainbow: (from the road) unless it gets colder might not last, spoke w/ folks who got on it; a lot shooting water and a few bare spots rock.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area
By: Armin When: Jan 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: FYI; As of last weekend, two friends of mine received parking tickets at the trailhead parking for the climbs. I myself have always parked in that same spot for the past 5 years while climbing there, as well as other local guides and visitors. I never noticed anyone of us blocking access to the apparent vacation home cul-de-sac. I wonder if the owner complained or something, or the annoying vail PD are just getting more aggro.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Armin When: Jul 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll take the photo credit, thanks mike :)
|
Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : The Serpent (5.8)
By: Armin When: Jul 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Direct start felt like 1 move of 10.
|
Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Saber : Kor Route (5.9)
By: Armin When: Jun 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: P's 3 and 4 combine quite nicely (about 200 feet and change, had 70m's) if you don't put to much gear in/back clean. This route would be 3 stars if the last two pitches were't so junk/more exposed.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Blackjack (5.10-)
By: Armin When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you have never done this route and you attempt the extra pitches exit option in the dark, be warned you are in for a epic! Nice linkup w/ Black Shadow Arete.
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : South Rim Routes : Black Shadow Arete (5.11a)
By: Armin When: Jun 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Remember to bring your shop vac and air compressor for the last pitch! My partner did a lot of nut tool gardening on this pitch. Compliments to the NPS, they placed a fixed line from the Chilumstone Rappel. Nothing like have your foothold sublimate away as you pull the crux move on a pitch. A fun but long linkup when done w/ Blackjack.
|
Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Batman Rock : Spaziergang (5.8) : Photo
By: Armin When: Jun 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Deb you are the Lumpy master! (other than Mike R for the other gender)
|
Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : December Wall
By: Armin When: Jun 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The poison ivy has taken over this place right now, best avoided.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Union with Earth (5.10b/c)
By: Armin When: Mar 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A 1/2"-3/4" cam might make some feel a little better just before the anchor.
|
Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : South St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak : Dead Men Chipping (WI4+ R)
By: Armin When: Feb 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I tried this route, all of his screws were complete junk (stubbies halfway driven in air pockets) until he could sling the pillar. He did bypass what looked like a good 0.75/#1 Camalot placement off right about 20' up. We bailed from the pillar, thinking the upper ice looked even worse than 2"-3" ice below the pillar. Did anyone else get better conditions last week, or do my partner and I have a lack of balls syndrome?
|
Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Rurpture (5.10b PG13)
By: Armin When: Jan 19, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Greg, I would have to agree, I lead this route and did several hangs at the first bolt. Although myself and the two other people I were with said that the numb fingers from climbing in the cold made it feel like 10d. So we say 10c with warm fingers, 10d rating= numb fingers. Yellow alien fits ok for next piece near the polished melonhead hold.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Armin When: Nov 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice Brad, the pants match the shoes, was that planned?
-ag
|
RSS Feed
