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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : AMC Boulder : Mickey Mantle (5.8+)
By: arjunmh When: 10 minutes ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Funnest way to do this is to climb the left leaning crack on the north face of AMC (facing Loafer's Choice). Takes a #3 and 4, if I recall, and is way more interesting than the crimpy slab start. Easy to protect, probably on the order of 5.8+ or so, and good practice for the other crack climbs in the area. Gets you to the base of the arete, probably another cam in before going for the bolt and overhang. Fun!
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Location: AZ : Pinnacle Peak : Y-Crack Boulder : Y Crack (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: 3 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Being the follower on Roman's lead, can safely say "better him than me!" Yuck, and it was the second time we'd both climbed that awful crack. Must there be a third? Hell no, and I don't think I'll ever feel like leading it. Roman used a big bro down low, walked a #5, and then #4 with a couple #3's and maybe a smaller one tucked away up top. Hated trying to clean while also trying to stay in the grungy crack.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox : Frosted Snakes (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Nov 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "spicy moves" to the top are hard to protect -- a la "Advanced Geir" -- but not as hard as the corner crack crux, and if doing again I'd probably skip and just go, risking the runout.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox : Blueberry Lizards (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nicer route than it looks, though loose stuff mid way adds spice to avoid. Can be well protected w/o the bolts, though, esp. if taking a big cam from El Throay to use down low.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox : Centipede Corner (5.10b/c)
By: arjunmh When: Nov 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet and well protected indeed! Some loose stuff down low, pulled off now, but the cruxy part is terrific, truly. Still prefer Throat choker b/c of the length, diversity and the views from top, but this is second so far...awesome find you both, thanks!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Entrance Tower : Unknown (The FA that Wasn't... (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The wide crack at the bottom is a bit loose and grungy and can be avoided to make this a bit harder and nicer. Could still be a FA, Marcy, as there seem to be many ways to the top of this tower! Any which way, it's a fun climb.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Lunchbox : El Throatchoker Grande (5.9-)
By: arjunmh When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it with Marcy and agree that this is a delightful route. Love the diversity and the length of the route and it has indeed cleaned up nicely. My favorite in LDE so far ... Thanks for another great route Marcy and Geir!!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : Microskunk Area : Faith, Hope & Jeep (5.10a)
By: arjunmh When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the "sneak peak" -- hopefully this will be the first of many fun and awesome routes out there. Sweet yo!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE)
By: arjunmh When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey both!
This area is soooo awesome -- was terrific to get a "sneak peak" and I'm totally psyched to explore these new route you both have worked so hard on. Very, very, very impressive and such a gorgeous area to add to the already stunning Lower Devil's. And, your trail and road work is all truly yeoman's duty -- above and beyond.
See you'll back out there soon!
a
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Great Race (5.10c/d)
By: arjunmh When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So, where and what is this route? Sounds great...
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Vitamin M (5.11c)
By: arjunmh When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A beautiful line, runout at top, but easier going, obviously. A couple small cams would have helped. Reminded me of short version of Lady in Red in Lower Devils, though not as hard.
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Location: AZ : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - North : Red Zinger (5.9+)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Key to have a follower clean this b/c of the overhand right below the 2-bolt anchor. Discovered this the hard way while soloing (more of a workout cleaning than climbing!) -- other option is to keep the directional in and just climb it twice. Nice route, though!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : The Totem Pole (5.10c/d) : Photo
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like we're having a conference up there instead of showing our delight for being on top!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : The Totem Pole (5.10c/d) : Photo
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah Ha! Now I can see the view from that new project of you'lls!! So cool, can't wait to check it out.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : The Totem Pole (5.10c/d)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just one or two small nuts for the top! And, a 00 cam just doesn't work that well...A truly exceptional climb.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Sublime Line (5.10a)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun top pitch! An easy solo route as it's not as long as Dacite and there's rest before crux to pull rope and decrease drag on the soloist. Spotted Marcy and Geir on their new project!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Just Say Yo (5.7)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good beginner trad lead, better than Loose Roof -- watch the rattlesnake at base!
Last time we climbed this there were new chains on the top -- thanks whoever did this! I kept forgetting a knife to clear all the old webbing around the boulder.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Aint Nothing but a Thing (5.8)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually a better trad lead than "Loose Roof" even if it's a bit harder. Definitely a gorgeous line.
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Smokin' The Toad (5.8)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now when I solo this or Ain't Nothing but a thing (which is better), I just use a 60 m rope, which gets to the lower crack of "thing" and can downclimb. Saves carrying 2 ropes!
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Location: AZ : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Hidden Splendor (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was harder than an 8 -- not moves, but pumpiness factor. Such a fun, hidden gem, though. Love the approach through the "cave."
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Druid
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sweet, cool summer short wall that's fun for an afternoon in the shade. The 10+ route not listed just to the left of Lightning is super fun, with a crux midway up through a thin, steep section. Looked like an 8 from below, but crimpy once on it. The photo on this page shows the small roof at the bottom of the climb.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Druid : Corporal Punishment (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun crux move to pull the roof. Heel hook and left arm dyno worked well for me. Other that that easy and not as fun as In Lightening.
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Location: AZ : Camelback Mountain : The Headwall : Rain of Terror (5.8)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easy beginning with a couple steep moves up higher -- a bit looser rock than Donamatrix, but well protected.
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Location: AZ : Camelback Mountain : The Headwall : Spice Box (5.10b)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best climb on Camelback! If soloing, don't use lower bolts for bottom pro with 60 m rope as it's a long way down...
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Location: AZ : Camelback Mountain : The Headwall : Ghastly Rubberfat (5.10b)
By: arjunmh When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Think I pulled a couple key holds off -- while soloing and took a nice whipper. Good thing my pro held! Definitely a fun route, though, if more people climb and clean the loose stuff. Replaced webbing last year, probably due again.
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