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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Inertia (5.10-)
By: arjunmh When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Ah, I'll change the description -- I edited it on the other 4 climbs, but must've forgotten to edit this one. Sorry. A couple weeks ago David and I went in and climbed all the new routes we'd set and replaced the biners with chains such that the biners wouldn't be bootied and the anchors can be used either as TR anchors with the leader adding a couple quickdraws, or just belay from the top (recommended given the views from the tops of all these towers) and then rap off the chains. Thanks for the... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Rushin' Arete (5.9+ R)
By: arjunmh When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Would definitely be a bad fall to mess up the crux, but the movement is sweet and the solid pro would've definitely prevented me from catastrophe. Long sling and a #1 or 0.75 as high up as I could reach, then out to the arete and climb with faith. Beautiful movement. The start of the climb felt the hardest!!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Gold Wall : Grievous Angel (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sweet little crack that I would've overlooked if I hadn't been going to do Waterslip. A great warmup for sure!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Prow : Fool's Game (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree on the above comments and it's definitely a good step harder than Mayflower to OS, but even more fun because of the diversity of movement and coolness of the gear.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : The Obsidian Wall : Heart of Darkness (5.9+ R)
By: arjunmh When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Looked hard for pro to protect the start and didn't find it -- But, the climbing is mellow to the roof if careful and then relatively poor pro protects pulling the roof (a rattly #3 and a so-so 0.5 BD). The upper section is the sweetness and the pro is also tricky. Would definitely call this not for the faint of heart to lead in comparison with all the other bomber pro climbs here. Small stoppers are key and not falling in the first 20-25 ft is also key!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Back In Black (5.10c)
By: arjunmh When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a much nicer route than it seems to be getting credit for. Would recommend for folks wanting to venture south on the wall. A couple cruxy moves down low and then fun sailing!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Kestrel's Last Stand (5.10b)
By: arjunmh When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this again this past weekend and was happy to see that it's cleaned up nicely and is obviously seeing some traffic. Believe it or not, JJ, the rock quality was a lot worse before David banged away at this cleaning (while I was scrubbing "Lichenometry) for an hour plus!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Shakin' & Eggs (5.10- PG13)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go Marcy and Geir! Great to see these posted and thanks for the pic of Minas Morgul! I look forward to getting on these two climbs of yours, though I think we're nearing the end of Lower Devil's season this year. Shall see what the coming weekend brings. Hope you'll had a great trip to Red Rocks!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Tyler on all points, but found the #4 quite nice to have on the trad pitches (even if it really wasn't that necessary). Would've been fun and funny to run into you en route as it has been a while. Just read his post about going all the way out from the top, which was hilarious given that this is what Hanna wrote in the summit register after reading Tyler's note in there: "These guys are crazy!"
Regarding the damage on the top of the trail -- basically from the upper saddle to t... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Inertia (5.10-)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, and also sorry to not have done it together. It was you and Austin's efforts on the new Totem Pole routes that got David and me back over to this area. There are certainly many cool looking routes on good looking rock left to develop here! Yes, looking forward to being out there together.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pipe Cleaner (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks David, and yes, it is a fun route and awesome views from the top. This too will clean up nicely when we don't have dogs lounging around the base.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : That's not epilepsy that's ... (5.8)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Given the time that Brenda and Steve with two different parties have spent over at this route on the last couple weekends, I'm guessing it's pretty sweet. And, enough traffic now to clean it up nicely.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Glitter Box Area : Gold (5.10b/c)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb and the new Totem Pole climb, Pathological Optimist, recently became my favorite for this area of LD. Wow, what a sweet route indeed, and while it's overhanging and delicate, the holds are all there and bomber.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Pipe Bomb (5.10-)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed! I am assuming that we'll clean it up better next time in there, in which case hopefully it'll be better than a bomb!! May need a crowbar, though, or a real pipe bomb. Hence the name.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Totem Pole Direct (5.10)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is bringing the old and much written about topic of bolting vs. gear to LD. There are so many opinions and perspectives on this, to say nothing of controversies and seriously bad disputes over it all that I am hesitant to weigh in. But I will since this area is so near and dear to my heart. My perspective is that it's just climbing and we're all doing it for enjoyment ... so, let's enjoy! In The Refuge, I've often climbed something entirely on gear, but then have put bolts in where I might ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Fern Gully Arete (5.7)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: From Marty's book: "Sport. Right of Chicken Shit Salad scramble up a chimney to get onto a ledge where the route starts. 6 bolt west face and arete to a 2 shut rap. 60'. Est: 5/93 Mark Trainor, Perry Teeters."
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Chicken Shit Salad (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to Marty's book the FA was Mark Trainor and Perry Teeters in 05/93. "Route goes up the northwest face in a corridor on a large formation west of the Totem Pole. Nice face with 10 bolts which gets steep and crunchy at the top. 2 shut rap, 80'. Haven't done this, but will check out and get pic next time down there.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Proto Pipe (5.11b)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: According to Marty's book this was established in '91 by Andy Marquardt and Leo Henson. Given the wandery nature of the bolts, the runout, and the excellent clipping holds (well, for someone a few inches taller than me!), I'm guessing it was done ground up. Can safely say that doing so was a tremendous achievement!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : Proto Pipe (5.11b)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, this would be a 4 star route if the crappy rock quality that makes for a scary start was cleaned up a bit and the bolts placed a bit farther left. Getting up to that rest ledge before the 4th bolt puts your mind in the right space to deal with the upper runout. Phew! It is possible to use small gear to supplement and get through some of the runout. The upper runouts are definitely scary, but the fall would be clean (think Adios Larry). Excellent rock quality after that rest ledge and very f... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Totem-Proto Area : ... : Photo
By: arjunmh When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't get over your exposures, Nate. Really great pics you've got. Having just been trying (and failing) to take decent ones out there (and failing given all the different lights) I'm mighty impressed by yours..
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Hanuman's Tail (5.10b)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, it is, and getting into the crack in the first place is harder than I remembered it to be for when I first set it. But, once in there, the jamming and the pro are excellent. If you're going to clip the lower anchors and continue to the top (the highly recommended way), then bring a long couple runners for sure. Also, a small cam or two to protect the final face to the top. Belay from the top, rap down from the top of God Knows.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : The Refuge : ... : Angel Dust (5.10c)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route again with my brother last month and found it to be MUCH better than I remembered. I think Ben and others have helped clean it up, or maybe the rains washed away all the dust and debris. Anyway, it was way more fun and secure feeling than when David and I first sent it, so would recommend this to anyone wanting a fun mixed route in Godhead South. Also, I don't think it's as hard as I originally rated it to be. Would love input on that, though.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Mission Accomplished (5.10a)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark Trainor and Brad Mattingly in 1/94 according to Marty's "Rock Jock's Guide." Funny to see this posted as I too just did this about a month ago, with Hanna, and without knowing what the route was. I went home and looked it up in Marty's book. Doing it onsight and with no clue what the rating was, I'd say the 10a (or, 10-) is fair and that the rock quality and the coolness of movement makes it deserving of 3 stars in this MP star system. It's definitely a fun route for the area, kind of a hid... more >>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Avocado Dreamin' (5.9)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Geir -- this is, I think, a more natural "line" that the more straight up and down "line" that you and I were playing on that day with Marcy when we went through the hard move at the bulge. When back with Steve and Brenda a while back, I decided that I didn't want to add a bolt to protect that single hard move and, instead, wanted to have the route be all trad. Turns out to work really nicely and the crack quality is surprisingly nice. So, I hope you and Marcy like it!!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE)
By: arjunmh When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Have now gone back on this route a few times and think it's almost a "six of one" question w/r to time to get to LDE from, say, the turnoff to Oak Flat. The pros for the eastern way in are that the road quality is much better and the hike is much mellower, with spectacular views from both. The con is that it does feel long, even if the time taken is likely about the same given the poor road into LD the normal way and the rugged hike down and up from the end of the road through Devil's Canyon.
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