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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Wasatch Alpine Areas : Mt. Superior/Monte Cristo : The Cottonwood Traverse (5.6)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely classic- the section just after Monte Cristo is wild and the traverse above the LCC north side chutes is amazing- above some of the most rugged area in the Wasatch. Reverse the route (minus the SE Sup Ridge) and continue on around the LCC watershed (Flagstaff> Wolverine> Devil's Castle> Bullion Divide> Pfeif> Beatout> Lone Peak) and you have the WURL... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Big Willow Cirque : Giggles (5.8)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, Giggles is one fantastic route. Perhaps it was the lonely wilderness setting, or perhaps it was the patina addiction of pitch four/five, but either way, it is now lodged securely in my top ten. Tyler’s photo-topo was spot-on. We ran pitches one and two together with a 70 meter rope and only had meters to spare- and part of pitch one was still deep under snow. We also rope-stretched pitches three and four together. Perhaps this wasn’t the best way to do it- I’d recommend combining pitch... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Beef Jerky (5.10c)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One tough piece of meat... yet I find myself gnawing on it occasionally. Judging by the amount chalk often found only in the first 10 feet it must get tackled often... and rarely (?) succumbs.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Millcreek Canyon : The Stitches Wall : sticky fishes aka Chub Coun... (5.9+)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called "Sticky Fishes" aka Chub Country- far from my finest climbing moment (3/2003). Sick of drilling limestone I just ran it out to the top. Perhaps another bolt would help appease the Den Mothers out there and help the route fit in better. Shares the Itchy anchors.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : Baja Breakdown (5.9)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone has any additional information PM me and I’ll update it. Due to the fading condition of the rap tree the climb would probably benefit from a set of chains- which I would be happy to install, but thought I’d see if anyone had any previous info before breaking out the hammer. I first climbed this in fall 2005 and cleaned it up a bit- it’s probably regained some of its former grit and foliage. A couple of different variations have been done over the years... by others and myself...?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Grayo : Grayo (5.8 PG13)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jul 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The short little nugget on the backside of Grayo is a long lost route of mine from ages ago (January 2000). It went at the inevitable rating of 5.10 A1 (or 2)- I had hoped to free it, but several attempts all ended in flail-a-thons. Consider it open to any free attempt. Getting off the deck is perhaps v5 and the upper section has better holds, but the gear is shady. Some left over webbing will help with clipping the first (and only) bolt. My memory has faded, but I do remember placing a rur... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c A0)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work. That looks like one steep, tough line. A couple other minor routes grace that same starting nook that might be worth mentioning... a fun knob/crack route climbs right out of the alcove joining up with Over Easy at mid height (~5.6). I've always called it by the unoriginal name of "Rotten Egg" based upon the same verbage James mentions from the Ruckman's topo. Another short route (and variation) head out left from the alcove up the left facing dihedral (or associated slab). It (an... more >>
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Location: UT : Ibex : Jackson Corral : Scorpion Slab (5.8)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed indeed. Thanks for the route :)
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Location: UT : Ibex : Sheep Rock Area : A Sheep in Wolf's Clothing (5.8)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Puzzling indeed. Even on toprope after leading it it was still difficult to read (5.8?). three feet left or right seems to be the answer... but... then I guess you miss the climb...
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Location: UT : Ibex : Jackson Corral : Melting Bits (5.10d)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first bolt is a little spooky to reach followed by a launch onto some slightly better holds. The move to the chains is a little obtuse and requires some larger bits to fire (and hold). A little awkward, but a prime time with fantastic views.
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Location: UT : Ibex : Jackson Corral : Scorpion Slab (5.8) : Photo
By: Arie Leeflang When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe Melting Bits is just out of the frame to the right of the photo.
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Location: UT : Ibex : Jackson Corral : Scorpion Slab (5.8)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Mar 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: James' comment is spot-on. Getting off the ground is difficult and a little tricky with a spooky, sharp, boulder to break your fall. One section of 5.8 above with some moderate climbing above and between. Glad to see Tartantula to the left is rated 5.8...!... not the 5.6 shown on the photo topo.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : The Standard Thumb (5.7) : Photo
By: Arie Leeflang When: Oct 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The trough 'rap' is far from the summit pinnacle- a least one technical pitch (the chimney) and several ratty 4th/5th class pitches (few hundred feet), then the summit pinnacle. This rap anchor (quality ASCA if I remember correctly) if far right of Nob Job and S-direct at about the level of the S-directs first slab belay (approx). Check the topo in the book and it should be a little more clear. Cheers.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Team Serious Wall : American Errorist (5.8)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Oct 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes! Finally a Grade VI I can nail in an afternoon. But I guess I'll have to survive without the WMD's.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Encore (5.7)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second pitch made the route. A couple of moves you are forced right to the edge of the arete with some unexpected exposure. New fav on the island! Thanks for the boltage.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Big in Japan (5.12b)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Powerful with a sequential upper section. Someone was kind enough to point out some inobvious holds and key footwork for me. Short enough that it definitely requires an attentive belayer- years ago I landed on my slacker-belayer's head after tryingto pull the crux. Luckily it did an excellent job of stopping the fall.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Resort Buttress : High Nowhere (5.9)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Sep 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice work... I've eye that line from across the canyon for years... but been to lazy to hike over. Kudos.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Cuban Missile Tower : The Krushchev (5.9 R)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must give kudos to my buddy Vladimir (aka Hunter) who hiked twice with me to fire the Cuban Missile- once to get spanked by snow, and another to get spanked by croutons.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Native American Crag : Chiricahua Gumption (5.10a/b)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting route (in a good way). It threads its way up semi-solid rock avoiding the crouton pile the rest of this crag seems to be. Well bolted. The second pitch crux was wild followed by fantastic moves up the upper arete with some exposure. A couple chickenheads I thought were bomber ended up being deployed into outer space. I guess I need to loose some weight. Thanks James and Ryan for a fun route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Eagle Buttress : Mission to Moscow (5.11a)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed- nice work. Thanks for the beta photo. I've checked that communist line out before but never made the jump that it is the Mission to Moscow. Is it really only 70ft? Looked long, hard, and fairly steep.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : South Summit : Geurt's Ridge (5.5)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jun 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, my new favorite route on the Mountain of the Gods- Zeus should be proud of this line. Long, varied, adventurous, beautiful rock, and it ends at a summit. We only roped up for the super-cool sidewalk pitch (and the raps) but this would be a great beginner alpine climb. I nearly felt like I was in the Tetons. Bring a knife and some webbing to clean up the ratty rap anchors- I chopped about half, but didn't have enough web to do it right. And yes, you could easily bail off the ridge at nu... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Cathedral : Devil Tree (5.10a)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jun 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pumping jam city. Fun, physical climbing up an awkwardly sinful, steep crack. Decent gear helps combat visions of falling and Devil Tree probe-age. Not the cleanest line, but definitely fun. 10+ years ago (I swear) there were mank quarter inchers at the top, but a crack provides a plentitude of anchor choices. Scramble off east on the standard Cathedral TR Highway.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Double Cross (5.8)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Jun 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely a solid climb- solid for its grade, solid gear, and mostly solid holds- save some solid fuel for the exit- it can be a humid pump.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : North Summit
By: Arie Leeflang When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Memorial Couloirs can offer a quick descent from the North Summit climbs. We've been summit to car in less than 40 minutes using the main chute when it's filled with snow (without snow it become far more treacherous and should be avoided; also, with snow, wall to wall wet slides are possible).
Use caution though- the obvious line out of the immediate saddle cliffs out. The main line is a little less obvious and the entire length to the canyon floor is visible from the top tr... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Altered States Gully : Clutching at Straws (5.7+ R)
By: Arie Leeflang When: Apr 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A spicy little '5.7' that lacks some aesthetics, but delivers a fun gear puzzle. With a little trickery there is adequate gear most of the way (I would have appreciated double TCU's). The upper reaches can be saucy.
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