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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Area Dan When: Nov 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to everyone for not stealing my draws off this climb all summer. I finally made it back to send this thing a few weeks ago. Awesome route!
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park
By: Area Dan When: Jun 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not much discussion about Rifle here. I thought I'd update everyone on the current conditions. The rock is super polished and chalk pretty much cakes up the positive holds so they are all slopers. Parking is a nightmare and camping is desperate on the weekends. I also heard about a bolt breaking/pulling. Don't get me wrong- there is some good climbing, but its no Boulder Canyon.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Area Dan When: Feb 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ok, here we go again with the ratings game. Of course, a route feels easier after you do it several times- What kind of statement is that? I don't care what the rating is, its close enough to 12a so knew whether or not to get on it. What i do care about is how you guys do the upper crux (after clipping the 2 bolts close together.
Here's what I did (after hanging on that bolt to figure it out) from the 2nd no hands ledge: right hand up the sidepull crack, left hand above that. Left foot on a n... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Area Dan When: Feb 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why is almost every thread on this site directly related to someone stroking their own ego? Who is anyone to say to put gear in or not? Anecdotes are cool and very useful- good example: "if you didn't bring gear down to the Canyon and are a pretty solid 5.9/10 trad climber, then you'll be OK with just QDs."- Joe Collins, kudos to Joe Collins. Bad example: "Don't bring any gear except for the finger crack at the start."
A 5.7 leader would probably soil their pants if they did that 2nd pitch wit... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Ten-Digit Dialing (5.12c)
By: Area Dan When: Oct 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got on this route today- perfect weather. I must say it is really one of the highest quality pitches I have ever been on. I don't know and don't care about the grade, but thanks for bolting this masterpiece. Now I just have to go back and link it up to the bird poop.www.areadan.com
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