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Member Since: Nov 10, 2009
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
Contact Arch Richardson

Point Rank: # 11,205
Total Points: 32
Last Year: 6
Last 30 Days: 2
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Arch Richardson been climbing?










Contributions


All 674 | Routes | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts 4 | Stars 550 | Ratings 92
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Cozy Ledge atop Pitch 5.

Cozy Ledge atop Pitch 5.

NV : Red Rock : ... : Bourbon Street (5.8)

May 16, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Three Brothers Area : Lower Brother : Absolutely Free, Center (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Why rap an old school adventure route? The top out and Michaels Ledge are part of the adventure, no? Anyhow the prospect of rapping did not appeal to us, with plenty of loose rock and snag potential. To each his own. Agree that the p4 lieback variation is stellar.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Director's Cut (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 12, 2016

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Comments: Good route. Some flakey rock, should clean up with traffic. Belayer should wear a helmet.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 06 - Little Lakes Valley & ... : Bear Creek Spire : Northeast Ridge (Easy 5th)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 17, 2016

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Comments: For roped parties: A 30m rope is sufficient as you will probably be simulclimbing, mostly. Many long slings, and finger sized cams, but nothing larger than 2" needed. Rock shoes were nice for the 5th class moves. Car-to-car in a day should not be a problem for most, we're average hikers and did it in 12 hrs, only about 2 hrs were roped. Enjoy!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Chapel Wall : Heathenistic Pursuit (5.10)
By: Arch Richardson When: Jul 30, 2016

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Comments: Thuggish lieback. Packs a lot in 60 ft. Great gear throughout.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Little John, Right (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Jun 24, 2016

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Comments: First pitch has a pretty burly 5.9 move. Don't feel bad if it shuts you down. Many of us have been shut down here over the years. Just because RR thought it was 5.8 doesn't mean you have to agree.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: Classic! The initial traverse was the crux (for us). Wide pitches felt secure, didn't try to spit you out anywhere, and they had pro. Enjoy!!


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : San Juans : The Grenadiers : Vestal Peak : Wham Ridge (5.4 R)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 22, 2015

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Comments: The best descent scrambles SW from the summit to an elevation of 13300, then heads NW following the strata (and cairns) to the Arrow-Vestal saddle at 13000. Ignore the cairn visible on the skyline to the right (W) at about 13500; it leads to very difficult terrain as noted in the previous post and should be removed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : The Gobbler (5.10-)
By: Arch Richardson When: Oct 31, 2014

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Comments: Route description is a sandbag and should be updated someday. My take:

P1: Positive but continuous 10a edges after scramble to first bolt. Pendulum falls for leader possible between clips.
P2: Moderate crack leads to a 10a move into an 8+ chimney. Crux is well protected and it is possible to pull thru on gear.
P3: 10b/c smeary crux move near the top of a continuous and exciting 10a face. Well protected with bolts and cams but it is not possible to pull thru on gear. Not "5.9" and there are fe... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Refried Brains (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: Had this beautifully varnished and shaded route to ourselves on a perfect fall day when there were 11 parties fighting for the popular BV routes. I thought the climbing on the first 3 pitches was more continuously interesting than many RR classics. The third pitch is the best at the grade in the area IMHO. Five hundred feet of stellar 5.9 climbing with a clean 30min rap descent is too short to bother with? How spoiled we are...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Dream of Wild Turkeys (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: Oct 18, 2014

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Comments: Among the best of the best. Hats off to the FA party.
Note for marginal 5.10 leaders (like myself): At the crux, I took the low traverse. There is a 15 ft sequence, passing 2 good bolts, that is much more difficult than anything else on the route. Hard 5.10? Falls are safe, but there is no way to pull through on gear. I made it (barely).
Three remnant 1/4" studs suggest the original route went to the top of the crack, then took a high traverse somewhat above the new bolts. Unclear to me... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Sand Felipe (5.10-)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: Actually, this short route does have its place in the sun. It is ideal for the aspiring Prince of Darkness leader seeking to test his/her skills on similar rock without causing a traffic jam. If you can't lead this, no need to pinch your toes on the Prince. Also, the anchors make a perfect vantage from which to photograph your friends on the crux of Triassic Sands.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Mt. Whitney : East Buttress (5.7)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: Enjoyed this fine route yesterday, completing it c/c in a long day, (us being average climbers in our 60's). The fall weather was flawless, and there were no other parties on the route, or on the East Face. We did the approach at nite, climbed the route from 8 to 2 while the face was sunny, and descended the hiking trail. Easy to get a Whitney Zone day pass the day before, for free. A pleasant alternative to fighting the crowds in July-August.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Giveaway (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 19, 2014

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Comments: A 5.9, with a 5.10 sequence at the start that's called a boulder problem, and some greasy slopers up higher that give a tennish feel. Maybe we should just drop the sandbag and call it a 10a (per the guidebook).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Triassic Sands (5.10)
By: Arch Richardson When: Oct 23, 2013

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Comments: Second pitch is only 5.9 if you french the crux...a few stiff pulls and you're cruisin the bomber handcrack. There, i said it.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Arch Richardson When: Jul 24, 2013

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Comments: Great situation, great shot!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Wonderland (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Pin is not that great, and bolt hanger is thin and covered with a blob of epoxy. I wouldn't fall on either. You can back up the pin with a cluster of rp's, but you have to trust the bolt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Prince of Darkness (5.10c)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 24, 2011

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Comments: Monotonous? Edging closely-bolted granite slabs may be monotonous, but not this sandstone jewel. Sidepulls, micro mantels, highsteps, smearing, edging, and yes, crimping - and this is only the 2nd pitch. A face-climbing classic for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Ginger Cracks (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 21, 2011

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Comments: The first rappel South from the notch to the bowl(slung chockstone) goes with one-60m rope (stretch). The main rappels East below the smiley face require 2 ropes and involve 3 drops if you diagonal over (climbers right) to the Power Failure pitch-2 anchors. We missed the set of anchors described by Alasdair (but still had a hassle-free descent).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 12, 2011

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Comments: First rate adventure climb with deluxe ledges. As of May 11 -Two brand new shiny bolts atop the first double-rope rap - many thanks to the installers. Hidden station below was secure with 2 good nuts - and easily backed up with a 1-1/2 Friend. Nest of tattered slings adequate but could stand some thinning out. Enjoy!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Sour Mash (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: May 7, 2011

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Comments: Crucial placements for me were .4 to .6 inch cams on the 5.9 pitch. These are more useful (and much lighter) than 3" cams. Smallish wires also useful. (Rock climbing doesn't get any better than this...)


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 27, 2011

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Comments: We hiked to the summit of BV Peak a few days ahead, cached approach shoes and water up there, less to carry up the chimneys on climb day. This great hike also familiarized us with the approach/descent. See Branch Whitney's website for detailed hiking beta. Mantle on entrance to 3rd 5.9 chimney pitch was a bit tricky(8+), but I didn't find a loose jug (as of April 25th).


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Stilgar's Wild Ride (5.8)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: We had a 70 m rope but ended up doing 6 pitches because of terminal rope drag. The rope tends to pull into corners and jam in several locations. Something to watch out for. Otherwise an excellent route.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: Arch Richardson When: Apr 5, 2011

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Comments: A 00 Metolius TCU adequately protected the initial moves. Overall a very fun and well protected climb.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Arch Richardson When: Sep 21, 2010

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Comments: I did not find any 10a moves on this climb (but lots of 9). I had a good pump going in several locations, though. If you place gear efficiently on p4 it is not too hard. A very enjoyable climb with comfy belay ledges and excellent pro.


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