With regard to ice conditions, I did it with very dull KTS Steel Kahtoola crampons and a single CAMP Nanotech Corsa axe. There was some ice but not much and always a good stem onto rock or snow if needed to get around it. But, I think conditions are probably changing up there daily at this point.
Comments: The first time I did this route a few weeks ago I had been told that there was some "secret" downclimb to get off the rock but didn't have any beta beyond that, so when it came time to get off the rock the most obvious descent to me ended up being a reverse of the spectacular final arete pitch down to a ledge with two big flakes on it. From there, I walked south maybe 20' on the easy terrain to a low-angle and featured chute (that you can crab-walk down) that deposits you another 30-40' lower o... more >>