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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Oct 20, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! The THC must be running in my head a bit...I thought I was on Wunsch's the 16th...did I do the direct start this time?
A. Everhart
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Tramp ("Trick... (5.10+ C2+)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Oct 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first two can be combined w/a 60. You can leave the pig at p2 do 2 pitches of chimney and then rap and haul out of the chimney. We hauled at a anchor on the arete but I think, humm...pretty sure can get. Well if you do haul on the arete you can haul the next two in one. Between santa and calvin there is a no rope passage but the pig doesn't fit. The base of calvinator is a good bivy. If you make it up to the sand slope area there are some bivy's in the dirt but where the rock starts a... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Oct 16, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I did the route last Thursday and had a great time. Amazing exposure at the belay below the bolt ladder. I have one comment to those considering this route. If you are heading out to do the route and it is windy, you may want to think twice and maybe save it for another day. At the belay below the bolt ladder the wind was pushing me around the little ledge. The anchor is bomber but something about wind seems slightly scary. All in all great route, definitely a classic.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Moon Goddess Revenge (5.11- X)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Mar 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Moon Goddess Revenge has NO ANCHOR. Due to the fact that it starts at a petroglyph, and that people keep climbing it I pulled the anchor.
Do not climb this route, climbing routes like this creates access issues that could easily be avoided.
If you do climb it there is nothing but empty holes to clip into.
Please think beyond yourself.
Anthony Everhart
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Crack Attack (5.11-)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Mar 14, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great route to climb but lots of the rock is shitty. There is a way to climb it that doesn't involve touching the large block that sounds real nice and solid (chimney to the face hold & span the block.) If you look at the climb you'll notice the slot under the roof is going to get larger when the roof falls out. After the roof/block there is more not solid rock leading to a section of hollow splitter! Great variety though.
I would be solid on this one, there are many other low 11'... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - Center Route & R : Toprope Left of Spicoli (5.11+)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Dec 23, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: pretty nice route, but there is gear, and it is totally able to lead
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Long Canyon : Maverick Buttress : Gunsmoke (5.11a)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Aug 29, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a direct start that makes the route much better and a real 11a. Doing the regular start this would be my recomedation for someones first "11a" onsight. For the direct start bring a few 1,2& 3 tcus.One 70m gets you up and down.A. Everhart
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Cheap Date (5.10b)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Jul 3, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this w/o any blind placements staying under the crack w/ good locks and toe cams and it didn't seem that hard. I'm sure I was smearing a lot with my left foot but there was also plenty of holds for it. An excellent route to send after getting beat down on Fat City.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Never Ending Story (5.10b)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Jun 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is stellar but is a bit fisty to only bring 2 #3 Camalots. I would bring a couple of #4 Friends and my partner wouldn't have minded a #4 Camalot for the last pich where she was hand stacking. The belay ledge is great but doesn't take nuts well, I used 2 yellow Aliens and a green. We had triples from #0.5 to #2 Camalot and doubles/singles in the small, and it worked pretty well on all the climbs we did, bring lots of slings! A. Everhart
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Twelve Pack Wall : Raw Fish and Rice (5.10b)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Feb 21, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: When your under that roof it seems HUGE!Good line, worth doing again.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Blue Gramma Cliff : Formerly Aided (5.11)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Nov 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't say this climb is sustained. My legs were more burnt than my arms. Lots of foot holds and stemming leads to a section of blank walls. Put a cam in up high and go for it, you will be rewarded.A. Everhart
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Original Meat Wall : Meat Hooks (5.10+)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Nov 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't say this is a fist climb. Burly wide hands for me. I would bring only 1 4.5 and only one 4 camalots. Lots of 3.5 friends and then tight 4 friends. I had 6 size 4 friends and had to backclean a scary lot (had already blew the onsight down low) so get lots of 4's. Good chain anchor, thank you whoever did that, can't be seen from the ground. My 50m trail line barly touched down. True Indian Creek climb!A. Everhart
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Coyne Crack (5.12a)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Jun 1, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I read the guidebook description for gear to the second set of chains (4, #3friends) and decided after getting my ass kicked I could take in some fun climbing. I don't know where those 3 frinends go up there. I got about 20ft over the chains before deciding to come back down. If going for the 2nd anchors take more #2 frinends, or if there gone take some 4friends.A. Everhart
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Our Piece of Real Estate (5.11a)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Jun 1, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I rap' d the route on a 60m and got to the ground just barely. The crux, getting off the block, might be hard but the climb is easy after that if you use the corner. I used it at the start and just kept using it scoring no hands rests throughout the flaired section. Just before the wide hands section, (black rock empires work well) there is a huge foot hold to the left. A good 10+ if your out of shape or have been climbing to many days in a row. A. Everhart
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Seibernetics (5.8+)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Mar 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: One day after taking to many falls on Baby Blue we decided to end the day here, but I just wanted to go see Dan at Woodies. In return for making him "put in one more" he made me do it. My feet hurt so I decided to try it w/o my climb shoes. Somehow, with very creative steming I got to the top. The crux wasn't climbing, it was keeping my flip flops on.A. Everhart
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Fat Fingers (aka Shadow of ... (5.10a/b)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Feb 23, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think this route is a sandbag but it is definitely solid for the grade. Careful footwork and good off-finger (.75 Camalot) jamming technique will get you through the crux. If your trying to layback the crux it would be much much harder. A good varied trad lead with a sweet crux.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Dementia (5.10a)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Feb 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a good climb, a fun climb, but there are harder 5.9s in the canyon.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Fast Boat to China (5.8)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Feb 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Near the top go right for a good short section of hand crack. Bring plenty of #3 Friends for the belay and the crack.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Morrison Boulders : Nautilus : The Nautilus Cave Pitch (5.10)
By: Anthony Everhart When: Feb 4, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not a chopper (if there chopped, they'll re-appear) but was outraged when I showed up to climb the "cave route." The climb is "sporty" and difficult to place gear on (gear was the "crux") but the bolts seem to be poorly placed. The 2nd bolt, (the one that is a foot to the side of the #1 TCU and #5 stopper, just before the crux) is for some reason stuck in a dish instead of on the nice smooth face. Also, I think it is a bit irresponsible to not bolt the top. I would prefer if t... more >>
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