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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great photo though! I've also tinkered around a bit with HDR photography, it's pretty cool!
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Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : Original Side : (05) Health Wall : Inner Sanctum (5.10a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the bolt loose inside the sandstone or is it just the hanger? In other words, can it be tightened with a wrench or does the whole bolt need replacement? I know I won't be able to make it there soon but this information could be good for anyone who might be able to repair it in knowing what they need to take to the crag (just a wrench or the whole bolt kit?).
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: HDR?
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Pulpit : Water Stains (5.7+)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Standard rack plus a few pieces for roughly 3/8 inch cracks."
OK, you know you are dealing with an engineering type / science geek when we are telling people to bring extra rack pieces for a crack that you are measuring in 1/8 inch increments!
Sorry Bill, I just could not let that go. Made me chuckle. Guess I am easily entertained.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : ... : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: May 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route listed as Emerald Hiway may actually be Emerald Road(?): Gillis-Rix, 6/85
See the discussion on the route page.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Lower : Gemstone East : Emerald City (5.9+)
By: Anthony Stout When: May 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Brian,
Are you sure of this? If so, I can change the first ascent information and the name of the route. That would be really cool if you were able to scan in the original topo for the route! I really enjoy seeing historical information on these routes in the Sandias!
Best, Tony
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Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : (02) The Corridor : Cameron's Coming (5.10c)
By: Anthony Stout When: May 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny thing about these two right sided corridor routes, they are getting harder over time! I remember nice sharp edges when I first did these routes 6 or so years ago. The last time I did them (probably 2 years ago), they were becoming quite rounded and more slopey! Ahhh, sandstone. They sure are fun routes though!
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : Wine Wall : Green Chile (5.11a) : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You're probably right, Doni. I like Green Chile on a lot of things but not in my wine!
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Location: NM : Socorro Area : Box Canyon : Wine Wall : Green Chile (5.11a) : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 14, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: That stuff is AWEFUL! But it does make a great name for a climb in New Mexico!
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route numbering is an estimate based on the photo and the climb descriptions. Please let me know if there are any errors and I would be happy to fix them.
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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful shot! Did you use a polarized filter?
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Early Wall : The Runway : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree, thanks for the topo Amy!
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : Monster Island : Frankenstein Direct (V4)
By: Anthony Stout When: Oct 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: If this is Frankenstein Left, what is the route that is labeled Frankenstein left? Is that one Direct? Just asking so I can fix the names for you.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : TWA Canyon : Trundle Wall : ... : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 13, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn Matt! I hope your dad is healing up OK, that looks pretty gnarly. Great self rescue story though!
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Location: NM : New Mexico, I-40 Corridor : El Malpais : Checking to see if this is ... (V3) : Photo
By: Anthony Stout When: Aug 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Impressive. I suspected that most of the sandstone was too soft out there for any good bouldering (or anything other than cracks). Guess there are at least some face holds that will stay put!
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : La Cueva Canyon, Upper : The Thumb : Halfbreed (5.10a/b)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a great route with solid rock (at least the variation we did), but we got a bit lost on the second pitch. We may have done the third pitch differently too, considering the comment Matt made. A topo would be really helpful. On the second pitch I climbed through a dihedral, looking for bolts, and could see none. After climbing through a 5.10ish roof with some sketchy chalk stones I traversed left through some nasty, poorly protected R-scary territory. Getting up to a certain point, I look... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crystal Cave
By: Anthony Stout When: Jun 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: George is right. Removing the route descriptions was done because, from the information I received from Marc, the changes that had been made in the cave made these descriptions obsolete. Removal was not intended to offend anyone. I apologize if it did.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Overlook : South/East side : Face Off (5.12a)
By: Anthony Stout When: Apr 14, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I suggest someone put some red tape on all the holds that are "on". :)
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: Anthony Stout When: Apr 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Dude! I figured that, I just wanted to make sure since I had heard nothing about any closures of main climbing areas.
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Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Sitting Bull Falls
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Could someone please comment on the closures specified in the new photos added above. I have not yet climbed at Sitting Bull so am not familiar with the area. The date of the order says 2002 so this could not be new. I am assuming this does not mean that the standard areas people are currently climbing at are "closed". Either that or it is not enforced since I hear about folks climbing at Sitting bull all the time.
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Location: International : North America : Cayman Brac
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Skip! And thank you for the awesome guide book. It was great to have it, and also helped a great deal for this page write up. Greatly appreciated.
The approach to the wave wall was being POUNDED when we were there! We were really bummed out not to have the opportunity to go there. We checked every day, and still the waves were coming. And we most certainly did NOT want to end up like Rob. God that looks terrible.
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Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : The Monolith : Thing 1 (5.11+)
By: Anthony Stout When: Mar 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thats great to hear Joel!
I'm gonna have to get back there to do some of these new routes!
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Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : The Monolith : Thing 1 (5.11+)
By: Anthony Stout When: Jan 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: New climbers setting routes in Gallup? Awesome.
Another potential climb is the actual arete on the left side of the corridor block. It's stout; I would suggest possible mid or low .12. I attempted it on top-rope years ago. Worked out all the moves but not top to bottom. If I would have stayed in Gallup I probably would have bolted it, but I left about 5 years ago.
But... It awaits someone else's ascent!
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : Gollum (5.11d)
By: Anthony Stout When: Dec 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: BenCliming - I have seen short climbers that can't even reach the first hold! Perhaps I'm forgeting something but I remember it being pretty reachy from the ground.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Tombstone : West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Anthony Stout When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A death block in the Sandias?! I can't for the life of me imagine that :)
I'm sure your cleaning will be appreciated by the next ascent party!
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