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Member Since: Apr 21, 2004
Last Visit: Mar 9, 2014
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Point Rank: # 1,278
Total Points: 477
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anthony Anagnostou been climbing?










Anthony Anagnostou

 
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Contributions


All 147 | Routes 16 | Areas 4 | Photos 40 | Page Improvements | Comments 57 | Posts 4 | Stars 24 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Absinthe of Mallet (5.9+)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: it recently came to my attention that Scott Ayers is making a new guidebook and he put the original topo online:

cochiseclimbing.com/absinthe-o...


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Unaweep Canyon : Main Canyon: Unaweep Granit... : The Access Fund Trailhead : ... : Photo
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: May 2, 2011

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Comments: At this point, I thought I was out of the fire. Turned out the crux was the rope drag from not managing my doubles well.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Baboquivari Peak
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 30, 2011

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Comments: for more beta, the correct electricant link is electricant.net/beta/babo.htm. the link cited above has an extra character in it and doesn't work.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Tooele Tower (5.10a) : Photo
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 30, 2011

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Comments: its the formation on the far left.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Mayday Malefactor (5.10c)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 23, 2011

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Comments: warning: beta dump... the pitch numbers above are a little confusing, and the descent is definitely not the recommended one!

this is the route beta i had:

Mayday Malefactor. 5.10, 5p (or moderate climbing and one move of A0)

Approach: Start from the left side of the Armatron slab in a stance in a dish.

p1) climb up varnished plates,discontinuous cracks, and shallow corners to the bulge on the right side of the huge white hanging face. a stance with a section of poor rock, followed by a short... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Requiem for a Tadpole (5.9+)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: this is the secret beta i got from the arete variation up top:

"Plumline Variation. ~5.8, ~150'

Approach: This is a variation finish for p4 of Requiem for a Tadpole. A fun line in its own right, you can rap from the Humerus Ledge down the fall line on the climber's right side of the arete to get to the base of the pitch if you came up another route.

The pitch has a two bolt station in a notch at the base of a long chocolate arete. Just beeline up the arete to the top. 7 bolts protect the runo... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sweet Thin (5.9)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Apr 18, 2011

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Comments: I'd second that motion. I think that if you only did one route the most fun woudl be the first two pitches of MM, followed by the upper crack systems of sweet thin, followed by whatever looks best to you up top til the summit. You could also rap off the humerus ledge and come up the arete finish to requiem to a tadpole while you're up there.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Sand Castle (5.10a/b)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 7, 2010

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Comments: ground up. i wasn't sure what to expect at the roof, so i brought a silver bullet for the first ascent: Tom.

(plus, that meant i got the money pitch).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Photo
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 17, 2009

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Comments: The absolutely least-exposed descent (without doing the long hike off the back) is linking the tree-ledges (as seen on the right side, in the topo) and taking it down to 120 (towards the wilderness center parking lot, also on the topo). This is 3rd/2nd class the whole way if you hit it right. All other (non-hike) descents require 4th or a little 5th class scrambling/slabbing. If you are soloing you might consider descending the mountaineer's route for a little extra rock time and a very speedy w... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Direct Northwest Face (5.10c)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 16, 2009

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Comments: the potential problem with linking the upper two pitches is that with a lot of rope out you are going to get a lot of stretch in the rope if you blow the crux, and there's a big flat ledge right beneath you.

i agree with n.stayner's pitch beta, with a 60. the trick is, as he says, to climb up as far as you are comfortable before belaying the first pitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : West Face
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 16, 2009

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Comments: you can rap from the chains over the water cracks with three very short raps linking anchors on two routes. this gets you to the gentle slab below the water cracks. two single rope rappels gets you (with a 60) to a decent spot where you still need to do a little slippery down-slabbing with a potential tumble/slide if you blow it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jun 16, 2009

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Comments: well, i dont know. ive never gone down it, and the idea isnt too appealing to me. thats partly because i enjoy weaving down the orpheus descent.

its also partly because i dont treasure the idea of downclimbing the little steep 4th class section at the very bottom, but then ive always gone up that in shoes and a pack, and im no hero. it would probably be a little harder (or feel a little harder) to go down it without ever have gone up it, but it could probably be sussed out on the way down by lo... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Requiem for a Tadpole (5.9+)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 31, 2009

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Comments: regarding the route beta "Apparently it is possible to rappel from here using two ropes on a adjacent route (Armatron?)"

i would definitely suggest topping out this, and any other route on the far right side of the brownstown wall (with the possible exception of routes on the sandcastle face). the summit is great, with a register and shade and good views.

the walkoff from the big tree at the summit is straightforward and quick, with only a single move of 4th class. it takes ten or fifteen min... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 11, 2009

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Comments: you can get to the base of the eagle wall in a little over an hour from oak creek parking. see direct approach beta on the main eagle wall page.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 11, 2009

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Comments: forget everything you heard about a long approach. you can be at the base of the eagle wall in an hour from oak creek parking if you hustle and take the direct approach.

walk into oak creek, under the solar slabs, and stay high on good trails, occasionally braided, and OUT OF THE DRAINAGE until you are forced in just as the canyon pinches down.

then follow the drainage upstream until you are in full view of the black arch wall on your right. ahead of you is the fork where other slower approach... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Dec 27, 2008

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Comments: it would be really great if an administrator could adjust the mexico page so that the climbing areas are grouped by state, or at least central/north/southern mexico..


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pena de Bernal : Bernalina (5.8-)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Dec 24, 2008

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Comments: far be it from me to claim the ability to fully decipher the mexican climbing beta, but i think that the route with the red hangers is actually "El Lado Oscuro de la Luna", a fun sustained moderate face climb to the right of bernalina.

as far as i can tell, bernalina is the first line of bolts you get to, where the trail hits the rock. there is a small semi-detached pillar/flake at the start where you could get some handjams off the ground. the hangers are silver, and the bolts are spaced out a... more >>


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Southern Mexico : Pena de Bernal
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Dec 24, 2008

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Comments: a little more beta, for those who find themselves wandering the central mexico rock scene. once you get to bernal, attempt the maze of uphill side streets until you find yourself at the base of the rock. a few pesos will pay the parking fees.

the via ferrata descent probably feels like 4th class on the way up, but on the way down it might get your attention if you're not on top of things. its not a via ferrata with cables, protection, etc. mostly a seriously fun down-monkeying with fattie rungs... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Daff Dome, Main Area
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Jul 29, 2008

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Comments: It might bear mentioning that I find the new falcon guide misleading about where the daff rap is. it mentions a rap starting from the tree in the 'north' corner. as far as i can tell, the tree and boulder with bolts in it is found at the E (or SE?) corner of the dome. walk towards lembert dome (or the meadows) from the summit.

the rap goes as two short single rope rappels. a 50m rope will easily suffice.

(there *are* trees in the north corner, but i dont see any anchors and it looks like a com... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Russell : Mithril Dihedral (5.9)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Mar 8, 2008

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Comments: awesome route. pristine granite, twin hand cracks in a corner with a view.

if i recall correctly, we belayed at the base of the dihedral proper. then one very long pitch (that i seem to recall almost finishing our 60m) to a great stance with good gear where the angle kicks back just a bit. not a hanging belay. then a shorter pitch over the upper crux and onto ledges above. that first long pitch in the dihedral is wonderful.

shame it isnt longer. but- it means you can afford to start late (and... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Nov 16, 2007

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Comments: a few years ago i put some approach beta together. there are great guidebooks out now, but just in case you're bored:

electricant.net/beta/ginger_ap...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : West Face : Cucamonga Honey (5.10- PG13)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Oct 12, 2007

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Comments: perfect climbing a stone's throw from the campground. too bad there's that one hard move right off the slab down low. if you're not into that kind of thing, pull on the draw. the rest of the route is worth it.

i went right at the crux and it didnt feel like .10a to me, but i might have been offroute, or i might have been paying too much attention to the slab below me.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : Power Failure (5.10)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 9, 2007

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Comments: re: john doe's neighbor route question: that route sounds like 'all you can eat'. i think its in the new guidebook. the first two pitches are fun, if you can stand the hard start (one move wonder- protects with tiny nuts or ballnuts above a bolt), and the second pitch is absolutely classic. splitter lieback to widening crack and eventually to a station. from there it follows a wandering bolt line through untraveled (ugly) rock and tops out on the buttress.


Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : 4. Moby Grape Area : Moby Grape (5.8)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 8, 2007

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Comments: "alpine rock rack"? i was pleased to have a double set of cams, including blue aliens, and if you're not solid on straight-in hands and wide hands then youll want extra #2 and #3 camalots.

great route. every pitch was interesting and it was climbing all the way to the top. double ropes are great on this route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Eagle Crag : Tooele Tower (5.10a)
By: Anthony Anagnostou When: Sep 6, 2007

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Comments: Eagle Crag had an excellent trail that wrapped around the backside (as mentioned in the beta) that im guessing is a well-worn hiker's trail. so yes, im guessing townfolk would know. or the gear shop folks (btw- go to the guide shop.. the gear shop employees nearer the zion park entrance are useless for beta, as far as i can tell).

i cant remember if there is a big drop on the left on the road. cross the bridge, and drive straight like you're heading for the hills. just before the road winds rig... more >>


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