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Member Since: Apr 1, 2011
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
Contact Gearoholic

Point Rank: # 5,307
Total Points: 100
Last Year: 61
Last 30 Days: 51
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Gearoholic been climbing?










Contributions


All 61 | Routes | Areas | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 15 | Posts 5 | Stars 13 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: There were multiple options for rappel on the desc...

There were multiple options for rappel on the descent but they are all about halfway on the descent. Look for cairns along the way after following the airy ridgeline and dropping into the gully. Aft

CA : High Sierra : ... : Clyde Minaret

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: My partner after the airy 5.8 traverse starting up...

My partner after the airy 5.8 traverse starting up the dihedral.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Clyde Minaret

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: My partner starting up the 3rd pitch (pitch off th...

My partner starting up the 3rd pitch (pitch off the ledge)

CA : High Sierra : ... : Clyde Minaret

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking back at the traverse after the first two d...

Looking back at the traverse after the first two direct start pitches. Watch you rope getting stuck in blocky corners as it did for me.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Clyde Minaret

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Definitely had to climb over patches of snow to ge...

Definitely had to climb over patches of snow to get to the start.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Clyde Minaret

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the direct start. Not as hard as .10a i...

Looking at the direct start. Not as hard as .10a in my opinion. Just getting used to the rock being not granite and therefore a bit looser was the crux!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Clyde Minaret

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at P5. The first section looked unlikel...

Looking up at P5. The first section looked unlikely so I skirted too far left and got into more difficult territory. Aim for a right facing corner with a mini roof to its right instead of doing what I

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10-)

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Found this towards the end of P4 after the crux. N...

Found this towards the end of P4 after the crux. Not really needed as there were options for other placements. We ended up making an anchor here.

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10-)

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: About halfway down the descent.

About halfway down the descent.

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10-)

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Downclimbing to bypass the snowy gully.  Up high i...

Downclimbing to bypass the snowy gully. Up high is some exposed 4th class but it gets gets easier and more obvious lower down

CA : Sierra Eastside : ... : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10-)

1 day ago

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the rest of the ridge to the summit.  S...

Looking up the rest of the ridge to the summit. Super fun ridgeline with occasional knife edges!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the notch where we gained the ridge....

Looking up at the notch where we gained the ridge. A little exposed climbing but rock was mostly solid and easy.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at Pitch 2 in the chimney section.

Looking down at Pitch 2 in the chimney section.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Instead of going out on the face, we decided to fo...

Instead of going out on the face, we decided to follow the chimney feature to the gully. Easy fun climbing. This picture is looking up around pitch 3 of the chimney section.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Pitch 1 of SE Face.  Rated 5.4 but s...

Looking up at Pitch 1 of SE Face. Rated 5.4 but seemed more like a 5.2 and very decent solo if confident.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Arrows mark the start of the 5.4 SE Face route, at...

Arrows mark the start of the 5.4 SE Face route, at the left of two prominent chimneys / cracks.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Emerson

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up easy talus field to start of climb.  Pi...

Looking up easy talus field to start of climb. Pitch 1 starts in the left of the two prominent large cracks that are near the top of the talus field.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Emerson

Oct 11, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10-)
By: Gearoholic When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: I second that there are no longer pitons at the 10b face move on P4. I managed to put in a brassy and yellow c3 as my protection for this move. Still, a fall here would result in banging into an unstable ledge. My partner was shorter, though, and had trouble on this move because she couldn't get to the good hand hold up high and right that I found. The offwidth near the start for me was cruxy. You definitely can't walk up the outside of it until you&@POUN... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is definitely halfway up the first pitch, but it can be well protected. I'd say only one move of 5.9. The chimney on the 3rd pitch (our 2nd pitch) was easier than a .9, even though I couldn't find the solid hand jam everyone keeps talking about (I have small hands). The rest of the route is fun, but not as fun as the Long Climb, which is way better IMO.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.8)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A very good climb, but it just gets greasier at the first moves above the chimney every time I do it. The crux for me is the jamming before getting to the coffin section. The face is super slick and the corner makes it awkward to properly jam (I'm sure back in the day it was a solid 5.7), so I'd upgrade this first section to a 5.8+. Everything beyond that is fun 5.7. The pull over the roof at the top of the coffin is way easier than implied. Good protection, and a solid finger or hand jam a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (g) West Face : West Face - Right Side : Traitor Horn (5.8)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: We linked Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn, then did the last pitch on Jensen's Jaunt, which is more entertaining. The money pitch on Traitor Horn is awesome, and while the crux is in the tight corner before moving up on the horn, it never felt harder than a slightly awkward 5.7. Great moves, great protection, love this climb!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (h) Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Finally I got to climb this classic! I was a bit nervous from the comments saying it was harder than 5.9, but when I got on it, I never did a move that was harder than a .9. Super fun climb, the crux before the flake on the first pitch is very well protected. Second pitch I laybacked instead of jammed, and it felt easier at around .8. One of my favorite routes on Tahquitz!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (f) West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10b)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The second roof crux was the only hard move for me. Felt like a .10c move for someone with small hands and long legs. The rest was a very comfortable .10a on the first pitch and the rest was cruiser. Great climb!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The Red Dihedral pitch is a classic, but so sustained that it feels harder than a .9 (more like 10b). The .10b crux at the top felt way easier than the rest of the pitch. The rest of the route is so-so, and the topo does not mark the easiest way up, so look around you for easier lines if you don't feel like doing the .10 sections. This is a great alpine climb, but it's not my favorite.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Northwest Books (5.6)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch is getting a bit slimy, but otherwise a quality route for the easy grade.


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