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Member Since: Apr 1, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 6,721
Total Points: 64
Last Year: 25
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 50 | Routes | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 14 | Posts 6 | Stars 12 | Ratings 11
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the rest of the ridge to the summit.  S...

Looking up the rest of the ridge to the summit. Super fun ridgeline with occasional knife edges!

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at the notch where we gained the ridge....

Looking up at the notch where we gained the ridge. A little exposed climbing but rock was mostly solid and easy.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down at Pitch 2 in the chimney section.

Looking down at Pitch 2 in the chimney section.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Instead of going out on the face, we decided to fo...

Instead of going out on the face, we decided to follow the chimney feature to the gully. Easy fun climbing. This picture is looking up around pitch 3 of the chimney section.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Pitch 1 of SE Face.  Rated 5.4 but s...

Looking up at Pitch 1 of SE Face. Rated 5.4 but seemed more like a 5.2 and very decent solo if confident.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Arrows mark the start of the 5.4 SE Face route, at...

Arrows mark the start of the 5.4 SE Face route, at the left of two prominent chimneys / cracks.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Emerson

Oct 11, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up easy talus field to start of climb.  Pi...

Looking up easy talus field to start of climb. Pitch 1 starts in the left of the two prominent large cracks that are near the top of the talus field.

CA : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Emerson

Oct 11, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is definitely halfway up the first pitch, but it can be well protected. I'd say only one move of 5.9. The chimney on the 3rd pitch (our 2nd pitch) was easier than a .9, even though I couldn't find the solid hand jam everyone keeps talking about (I have small hands). The rest of the route is fun, but not as fun as the Long Climb, which is way better IMO.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Coffin Nail (5.7+)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A very good climb, but it just gets greasier at the first moves above the chimney every time I do it. The crux for me is the jamming before getting to the coffin section. The face is super slick and the corner makes it awkward to properly jam (I'm sure back in the day it was a solid 5.7), so I'd upgrade this first section to a 5.8+. Everything beyond that is fun 5.7. The pull over the roof at the top of the coffin is way easier than implied. Good protection, and a solid finger or hand jam a... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : Traitor Horn (5.8)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: We linked Coffin Nail to Traitor Horn, then did the last pitch on Jensen's Jaunt, which is more entertaining. The money pitch on Traitor Horn is awesome, and while the crux is in the tight corner before moving up on the horn, it never felt harder than a slightly awkward 5.7. Great moves, great protection, love this climb!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Finally I got to climb this classic! I was a bit nervous from the comments saying it was harder than 5.9, but when I got on it, I never did a move that was harder than a .9. Super fun climb, the crux before the flake on the first pitch is very well protected. Second pitch I laybacked instead of jammed, and it felt easier at around .8. One of my favorite routes on Tahquitz!


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face Bulge Routes : Upper Bulge Routes : Super Pooper (5.10a/b)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The second roof crux was the only hard move for me. Felt like a .10c move for someone with small hands and long legs. The rest was a very comfortable .10a on the first pitch and the rest was cruiser. Great climb!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 01 - The Sawtooth Ridge : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: The Red Dihedral pitch is a classic, but so sustained that it feels harder than a .9 (more like 10b). The .10b crux at the top felt way easier than the rest of the pitch. The rest of the route is so-so, and the topo does not mark the easiest way up, so look around you for easier lines if you don't feel like doing the .10 sections. This is a great alpine climb, but it's not my favorite.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Northwest Books (5.6)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: First pitch is getting a bit slimy, but otherwise a quality route for the easy grade.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Drug Dome : Crystal Meth (5.8 PG13)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route does not deserve 3 stars (more like 1.5), but it is a good alternative to link up to Hobbit Book instead of hiking up the longer approach. The cracks were dirty and crystals were breaking off left and right. Be careful of loose rock. Worth doing once. Obviously this route is not climbed a lot.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A great Tuolumne classic! The runout section had great holds and I never felt insecure. Instead of doing the longer approach, we decided to climb Crystal Meth on Drug Dome, which tops out just before the 4th class traverse to the start of Hobbit Book.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : DAFF Area : Daff Dome West Face : Crescent Arch (5.9+)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: Sustained .9 on pitches 2-3 wasn't as bad as I was anticipating. Great protection throughout the route, except rounding the last roof on pitch 4 before the "crux". I actually considered this last roof/corner section on pitch 4 to be more awkward than the pitches 2-3, especially on lead. The .10b move at the top is no big deal and very well protected. One of my favorite climbs in Tuolumne!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Wonderland South : Wonderland Valley : ... : High Strung (5.9)
By: Gearoholic When: Mar 10, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not a fan of OW so the first part of the top was a challenge for me, as was the start. Wished I had 2x Camalot #5s so I didn't have to push up the protection. It's fun to do once, though. I found the thin crack down low a bit greasy from traffic, which made it tougher than it looked. Also, one of the bolts at the top anchor is loose.


Location: CA : High Sierra : 13 - Whitney and Surroundin... : Lone Pine Peak : North Ridge (5.4)
By: Gearoholic When: Oct 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: We read up on the beta so we wouldn't have route finding issues, and it worked. Started on the trail at 6am. We did the common start traversing from the trail at about 8600 ft and climbing the loose rock to gain the ridge at 8:45am. Mostly 3rd and 4th class (like others have said, you can make it easy or hard pretty much the entire ridge). We stuck to the east of the ridge at the 3rd tower to avoid a rappel or crazy down climb. When we got to the headwall we had a difficult time finding the... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine ... : Mt. Emerson : Southeast Face (aka the Wat... (5.4)
By: Gearoholic When: Oct 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There was some confusion as to the start of the climb because the two large cracks aren't necessarily visible/obvious from the switchback angle. We hiked up a little further from the switchbacks where the trail was nice and flat, and then we could see the cracks. I've added a beta photo with a big arrow pointing out the start of the climb from the angle we could see from the trail. Going up the talus field was easy compared to some others I've traveled. The climb itself is very doable solo/n... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : North Face : Northeast Face West (5.6)
By: Gearoholic When: Sep 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Really enjoyed this climb - worth doing, but know it's not a 5.6. Definitely sandbagged. The quality of the route though is great - pitch 3 was my favorite. I agree that there are good tree belays if you keep the first pitch short. Small gear (sometimes not very well protected), but I could have used a 3 up there. Finished in 6 pitches. The 5th pitch was interesting and we realized at that point that the route had become harder than 5.6. We had climbed Sahara Terror the day before and this was... more >>


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: NEW YEARS DUMP - updatedFOR SALE / WantedGearoholicNov 4, 2015
re: FS: Women's Climbing T-Shirts!Northern CaliforniaGearoholicAug 18, 2015
re: Were you at the Hulk the past week? I may have got pictures for youNorthern CaliforniaGearoholicAug 18, 2015
re: 5/2 - 6 Sierra PartnersNorthern CaliforniaGearoholicApr 30, 2015
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