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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Hard Body (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: 5 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: There are several decent (mostly awkward) shakes on Hard Body but few spots to fully rest. Getting to the anchor felt like an accomplishment in pump management more than anything.
Chad
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Shadowfox (5.8)
By: another Chad When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The only cam I place on Shadow Fox is a purple C3 (right before the traverse). After the traverse, the crack will eat up nuts all the way to the anchor. This climb is fun and a good introduction to nut-craft.
Chad
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Scotch and Soda (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: FFA 9/7/87 by Tim Olson & Bob McGown
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : ... : Photo
By: another Chad When: May 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome picture.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : zb (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: May 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was chopped.
¿Por que?
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Pinhead (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, great route. Technical, exposed and captivating. It took a while to figure out an efficient way to move between the 3rd and 4th bolts but once unlocked the route felt easier than Kashmir.
Chad
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : From Something to Nothing (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line has been a great source of bailer 'biners over the years.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Skinny Sweaty Man (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: "as last time I tried it rock camb honey crumbling down"
I like honey, this route should get some stars for that alone.
Chad
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Location: WA : Ozone
By: another Chad When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ozone wall is such a small crag, do we need to have these tiny, somewhat arbitrary sectors dividing the place up? Heaven's Wall, Shield Wall, Middle Earth, gimma a break. How would people feel about eliminating the 'areas' at Ozone wall on Mountain Project and grouping all the routes together by orientation?
Chad
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Location: WA : Ozone : Heaven's Wall : There Yare (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There Y'are is a short dihedral but it's quite fun. It's clean too, unlike a lot of Ozone trad lines. Locking hand-jams and great edges for the right foot. The left foot is, for the most part, S.O.L. when it comes to standing on something positive. I agree with the gear suggestion above, doubles on C4 #2 and #3 are nice to have.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Toxic (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hooking the flake makes it easier??? I think that may depend on your body type. For me it definitely was not easier. - Karsten
I agree. It's certainly worth a try but don't get sucked into thinking heel-hooking is the only way, or even the best way to get through the crux deadpoint/dyno. For me, it's not.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Shipwreck Wall : Blue Light Special (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Mar 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Blue Light Special feels harder than Toxic. Less fun too.
Chad
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Classic Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: another Chad When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tree is belaying?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: another Chad When: Feb 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is by far the best route description I've read on Mountain Project.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Lion's Chair (5.11a R)
By: another Chad When: Feb 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first part of this route (Lion's Chair Start) is graded 5.10c in Watts' book which seems rather cruel.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Friday's Jinx (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is not a casual 5.7 (is it even 5.7?). P2 is fun, aesthetic and easily protectable. Watch out for some loose rock on the dash to the belay notch at the very top.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Smith Rock Group : Llama Wall : Entering Relativity (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has 15 bolts not 14 as stated above and in Watts' book. Backcleaning is possible at various spots and helps with the rope drag. Using slings on a few of the outlying bolts will help with the drag too. A 60m rope will just get you down.
It isn't a very aesthetic line but the climbing is quite fun.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Karate Crack (5.10a)
By: another Chad When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are several places on this line where a hex would work better than anything.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Watts Totts (5.12b)
By: another Chad When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is allegedly the first sport climb. Does anyone know if this is true?
Page 30 & 31 of Rock Climbing Smith Rock Sate Park has the information you seek on Watts Totts. Better yet, read the whole history chapter, great stuff.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: another Chad When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Ryan. If I remember correctly, you were taking photos of the same ascent.
Chad
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm seeing a lot of 5.10b ratings given to Red Eye. I suspect the same people aren't climbing the second and third pitches! The third pitch in particular is quite hard even for the grade given in Portland Rock Climbs.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with what Ray said above. Consider walking off, it's safe, easy, quick and you won't be getting in the way of any following parties. Walk climber's right from Spiderman to the obvious descent.
Regarding the top-out: please be extra careful, there's quite a bit of loose rock up there and people tend to congregate at the base of this route.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Self Preservation Variation (5.10a)
By: another Chad When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why doesn't the super-traversing extension to Toy Blocks (Self Preservation) get more attention? It's unusual, fun, pure and very easy to protect. Oh yeah, if anyone is climbing Earth Boys, Ring of Fire, Hesitation Blues, Blue Balls, Child's Play, or Toys In The Attic then you are going to be in the way climbing Self Preservation. OK, so that explains some of this climb's obscurity. If you ever see this popular little section of wall without climbers on it, try Self Preservation; ... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Charlie's Chimney (5.6)
By: another Chad When: Oct 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: To reinforce what is said above, yes, save that #6 (or 9" Valley Giant) for the end of the laybacking section. All the laybacking is mellow though there is an insecure move right at the top of the flake. Between the flake and the start of the chimney there's a pocket on the face that takes a #1 camalot perfectly. Above that a #4 can be placed at the bottom edge of the chimney. If you like tight chimneys and can overlook some bird shit you might enjoy the climb.
Chad
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Anonymity (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left bolt at the anchor is loose. It is a RAWL/Powers bolt and it appeared that the sleeve was spinning when I turned the bolt head. If someone could check on it and make the proper repairs that would be greatly appreciated.
Chad
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