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Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact another Chad

Point Rank: # 565
Total Points: 1,348
Last Year: 97
Last 30 Days: 3
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has another Chad been climbing?










Contributions


All 722 | Routes 39 | Areas 2 | Photos 153 | Page Improvements | Comments 163 | Posts 1 | Stars 193 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (8) Old School Wall : Standing Ovation (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Sep 19, 2016

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Comments: Patrick, those are Metolius Rap hangers. They don't need to have anything added to them except your own quick draws if you are top-roping the climb. The last person to climb in the group cleans the anchor just like any other and then rappels. The hangers are designed with thick, radiused surfaces so as not to damage ropes. Just like any other anchor, it is not recommended that you top-rope through the hardware or it will wear out much more quickly (your rope will twist like c... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Kashmir (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Sep 7, 2016

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Comments: Geoff, the gear section is still Red Eye, the second pitch.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte
By: another Chad When: Sep 1, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification Paul. You had me worried!

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte
By: another Chad When: Aug 24, 2016

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Comments: No. I was wondering where you saw these signs. At the very top of the hill by the castle-like lookout? This is not the cliff area that climbers climb at and refer to as Rocky Butte.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte
By: another Chad When: Aug 18, 2016

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Comments: Paul, where are these signs located? These have the same text as what has been posted at the overlook on top of the hill for a year or two.

Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Twenty Year Hangover (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Aug 8, 2016

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Comments: I put some new chains and steel carabiners on the anchor yesterday.

Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Jugalicious (5.10a)
By: another Chad When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: A 60m rope will work too with a few feet to spare.

Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Fat Crack (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Jul 25, 2016

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Comments: This crack is a nice way to get to the top of the column. Gear to 4" protects it well.

Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : The Swine (aka Enola Hill) : Swine of the Times (5.10)
By: another Chad When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: You can rappel from the top of the second pitch with a 60m rope and have several feet of rope to spare. I'm not sure about 1 to 2" gear but a #.75 C4 works nicely for the optional piece on p2.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (4) Spring Rock : Ground Effects (5.12b)
By: another Chad When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: The second roof felt more than 'a little tricky'. In my mind, that was the crux. I imagine the first roof would be the toughest section for sub-5'9" climbers though. I can just reach it.

The finishing slab (shared with Free Bird) has been cleaned up. It's far from perfect but quite a bit better than it was.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Snack Attack (5.13d)
By: another Chad When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification Ryan. For some reason I thought this line was something else.

Nice work Drew!

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (vv)Staender Ridge : (3) The Mole : Chasing Blue Sky (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Expect the grade on this to vary significantly, depending on your height.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (3) Snake Wall : Opdyke's Crack (5.9+)
By: another Chad When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the little bit of history Bill. I appreciate hearing the details, rashes and all. Did you have a set of cams at that point?

Bryan, thanks for the cleaning!

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (a) Picnic Lunch Wall : Snack Attack (5.13d)
By: another Chad When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Did this not get freed by Watts?

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Opus (5.12)
By: another Chad When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Out of respect to the first ascentionist, I added this climb to the MP database as a 5.11+. Having climbed most of the 5.11's and many of the 5.12's at Broughton, I strongly believe that Opus is considerably harder than 11+. It is an outlier at a crag that is already known for having stiff grades.

Chad

  • edit 5/18/16: Ok, the route grade has been changed to reflect reality. Considering how difficult Opus is in relation to other routes at Broughton, mid 5.12 seems justified.



Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horseman : John Galt Line (5.11a/b)
By: another Chad When: Apr 27, 2016

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Comments: Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Night Vision (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: update: Three years ago I tried to funk out the pin in question. Today I tried again. Either my cable was going to snap or the piton eye was was going to tear before I could get the pin to budge. Agreed, pins are not an ideal solution, especially given our climate, but this one seems to be extremely solid right now and it happens to be in a great spot for the leader.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: P1? I think that 5.10- is commensurate with other Broughton climbs at that grade. There are quite a few 5.10a's and 10b's there that feel harder to me than the first pitch of Red Eye: Tip City, Short Circuit, The Spring, Gandalf's Grip, Risky Business, and p2 of Loose Block Overhang. If you want to see what 5.10c feels like, check out the second pitch of Red Eye, Shoot From the Hip, Fun In the Mud, Short Fuse, or Superstition. You might reconsider the first pitch of Red Eye as a 5.10c positio... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (t) Kiss of the Lepers Butt... : First Kiss (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: dydayley, yes, rappelling down The Climb is a common exit for First Kiss. You have good odds of The Climb being open. With that said, I'll never bother with the rappel again. It's slow and there's always the potential for rockfall or stuck ropes. Especially with kids I just wouldn't bother with this. A single rappel (two 60m ropes or reportedly one 70m rope) will get you to the base of the Hello Kitty cliff and a simple walk-off to climber's right. If you've come from Misery Ridge, this ha... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : The Assassin (5.14d)
By: another Chad When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Incredible accomplishment. If anybody's interested, Watts has a good description of, what would be, The Assassin in the guidebook (project 30b).

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Slapfest (5.12b PG13)
By: another Chad When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: I thought the clips were relatively easy. Not falling between them, well....

Using a single carabiner on the second bolt is a good idea.

Adam, I am so confused. There's a jug sidepull in the left crack one can use to clip the second bolt with.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (7) Flounder and Cod Rock : Butter Knife (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Danger Gone! The failing anchor has been replaced.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Nick, I totally agree that climbing Spiderman in two pitches is the way to go. I think the confusion lies in having the Squashed Spider anchor in the middle of the first pitch. People see it and assume they need to stop.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (2) Silver Bullet Bluff : Bite the Bullet (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Bite the Bullet is leadable, unless someone nicked the hangers off this route again. About five years ago I re-equipped this line with hangers (or new studs as needed). The originals were 3/8" FWIW, not 1/4". Things might have changed since then as the fixed hardware at R.B. is constantly 'evolving'.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Fish N' Chips (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: For good reason, this line would get non-stop traffic if it weren't at the top of a gully. Kind of like Butterknife ArĂȘte, great climb guarded by a bitch hike.

Chad


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