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Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 536
Total Points: 1,265
Last Year: 187
Last 30 Days: 34
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has another Chad been climbing?










Contributions


All 646 | Routes 36 | Areas 2 | Photos 145 | Page Improvements | Comments 150 | Posts 1 | Stars 172 | Ratings 140
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Pack Animal (5.8)
By: another Chad When: 4 days ago

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Comments: What is the rappell situation for getting off of Pack Animal?

BSwett, I agree that Taiwan On is unusually hard for a 5.10c. Then again, Reason To Be seems abnormally hard for a 10d so maybe my arÍte technique stinks.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Calamity Jam (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Calamity Jam is great...maybe the best gear protected climb on tuff I've done at Smith. On par with Wartley's for quality, in my opinion.

A lot of people won't care but doubles in middle-sized nuts might be nice if you like to have quick & easy protection. A 60m rope will just get you down if you're using the fixed anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Aug 28, 2015

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Comments: ^ 😄


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Why are people reporting spinning hangers? It's like stapling a flyer to a telephone pole warning your neighbors there's a dead squirrel in the road.

Tighten the thing up a bit, it is either going to be a 1/2" or 9/16" head.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Sanity Assassin (5.6)
By: another Chad When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: The crack is a fun romp. There's a two-bolt variation on the face to the right. 5.10+ if you don't use the crack at all. Shared anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Bulo Point : Black Market Organ Donor (5.9 PG13)
By: another Chad When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: ^ Good point.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Wally Street (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, that third bolt is very hard to clip. Thankfully, the rest of the bolts are easy to clip and the second bolt is not far from the third.

Nice climb.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Chariots of Fire (5.11c)
By: another Chad When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Chariots of Fire is really unique and a great challenge. If anyone is interested in top-roping it, you can get to the anchor by climbing both pitches of Rites of Passage, then get lowered about twenty feet and traverse right on a lichen covered ledge. Aim for the little filbert bush and you'll get to the anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff
By: another Chad When: Aug 7, 2015

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Comments: Anyone know why there's a rope hanging from the right side of the Rockgarden Wall? I'm thinking about taking it down. I first noticed it this winter and have never seen it used.

yellow rope
yellow rope


Update, August 23: I took down this short, fixed rope. If it's yours and you'd like it back, let me know.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Night Vision (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Pete, so the pin has been shown to hold falls and presumably kept you from taking a real plunge and you still advocate not using it?

If I remember correctly, nobody is ever going to take more than a mini-fall on that anyway as the climbing is over when the pin is at you waist. Right?

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Cherry Cola (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: The two 5.11d's at Carver seem really hard for the grade (Burning From the Inside being the other). Seems kind of strange. Is Cherry Cola really only one letter grade harder than Uncola? Both (Cherry & Burning) feel significantly harder than Angular Motion and on par with Wally Street for difficulty.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Reminded me a bit of Smith Rock's Heinous Cling, though easier and less scary.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crash Landing (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: The best crimps I've ever felt. Awesome little climb.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Really thrilled to have been able to climb Pick Pocket. The route is fantastic and it was nice to climb a Bachar route.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (4) Gold Wall : Beyond the Glory (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Brunt, either way works. It seems that most people stop at the Screaming For Change anchor.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Tofutti Cutie (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Charlie! Looking forward to getting back on this route when I get back.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : Hellboy (5.11)
By: another Chad When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: My $.02

The easy half of Stepchild + pulling out of a roof on jugs + good edges covered in pine needles = 5.12a?! Gimme a break. Well Hung (supposedly 5.10b) at Broughton Bluff is very similar in style but harder. To me, Hellboy feels only slightly harder than House of Pain.

Really fun route.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Headless Horseman (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Kent!


Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Cindyrella (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Two & a half years ago I posted the comment above. Crickets. Today I removed the bare stud between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. As I said before, it appears that this was the remnant of an older retrobolting.

Phillip is right, the bolt protecting the crux (2nd bolt) was a rusted out piece of junk. I replaced it today with beefy SS hardware.


Chad


Location: OR : Mt. Hood : Area 51
By: another Chad When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: "From SE Portland to crag takes 1 hour and 15 Minutes."

Unless you are going by helicopter this is absolutely untrue. It takes a little over an hour to get to Government Camp from inner Portland. From Government Camp it takes about an hour get to Area 51.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 11, 2015

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Comments: Nick, spot-on comment. I often think the same thing on the way up to Kashmir.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : The Watchman (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: I'm glad this got put on to MP as a 5.10c as that's what Tim swore the grade was. With my crappy technique, I always thought is was a bit harder.


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Progressive Climax (5.8+)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Great warm-up and a really fun route.


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Northern Pearl (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: The FFA of Northern Pearl was a free solo. After six hours of cleaning this route, 5 more minutes in a harness didn't seem appealing!


Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Rock Creek Cliff (aka Clif'... : North Section (Left Side) : Slow Dance (5.10a)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: Slow Dance is one of my favorite climbs are Rock Creek.


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