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Member Since: Nov 1, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact another Chad

Point Rank: # 565
Total Points: 1,284
Last Year: 83
Last 30 Days: 3
17 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has another Chad been climbing?










Contributions


All 681 | Routes 36 | Areas 2 | Photos 149 | Page Improvements | Comments 149 | Posts 1 | Stars 182 | Ratings 162
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : John Galt Line (5.11a/b)
By: another Chad When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Small update to the description above. This route is in the latest edition of the guidebook.

I enjoyed JGL up to the point that I had to clip the bolt above the roof. Either I didn't follow the first ascentionist's path or that bolt is in a funky location.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Night Vision (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Apr 10, 2016

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Comments: update: Three years ago I tried to funk out the pin in question. Today I tried again. Either my cable was going to snap or the piton eye was was going to tear before I could get the pin to budge. Agreed, pins are not an ideal solution, especially given our climate, but this one seems to be extremely solid right now and it happens to be in a great spot for the leader.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (3) Red Wall : Red Eye (5.10b/c)
By: another Chad When: Apr 8, 2016

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Comments: P1? I think that 5.10- is commensurate with other Broughton climbs at that grade. There are quite a few 5.10a's and 10b's there that feel harder to me than the first pitch of Red Eye: Tip City, Short Circuit, The Spring, Gandalf's Grip, Risky Business, and p2 of Loose Block Overhang. If you want to see what 5.10c feels like, check out the second pitch of Red Eye, Shoot From the Hip, Fun In the Mud, Short Fuse, or Superstition. You might reconsider the first pitch of Red Eye as a 5.10c positio... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (t) Kiss of the Lepers Butt... : First Kiss (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: dydayley, yes, rappelling down The Climb is a common exit for First Kiss. You have good odds of The Climb being open. With that said, I'll never bother with the rappel again. It's slow and there's always the potential for rockfall or stuck ropes. Especially with kids I just wouldn't bother with this. A single rappel (two 60m ropes or reportedly one 70m rope) will get you to the base of the Hello Kitty cliff and a simple walk-off to climber's right. If you've come from Misery Ridge, this ha... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : The Assassin (5.14d)
By: another Chad When: Feb 16, 2016

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Comments: Incredible accomplishment. If anybody's interested, Watts has a good description of, what would be, The Assassin in the guidebook (project 30b).

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (2) Hanging Gardens : Slapfest (5.12b PG13)
By: another Chad When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: I thought the clips were relatively easy. Not falling between them, well....

Using a single carabiner on the second bolt is a good idea.

Adam, I am so confused. There's a jug sidepull in the left crack one can use to clip the second bolt with.


Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (7) Flounder and Cod Rock : Butter Knife (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Oct 12, 2015

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Comments: Danger Gone! The failing anchor has been replaced.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (p) Spiderman Buttress : Spiderman (5.7)
By: another Chad When: Sep 18, 2015

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Comments: Nick, I totally agree that climbing Spiderman in two pitches is the way to go. I think the confusion lies in having the Squashed Spider anchor in the middle of the first pitch. People see it and assume they need to stop.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (2) Silver Bullet Bluff : Bite the Bullet (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Sep 11, 2015

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Comments: Bite the Bullet is leadable, unless someone nicked the hangers off this route again. About five years ago I re-equipped this line with hangers (or new studs as needed). The originals were 3/8" FWIW, not 1/4". Things might have changed since then as the fixed hardware at R.B. is constantly 'evolving'.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - East Face : Fish N' Chips (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: For good reason, this line would get non-stop traffic if it weren't at the top of a gully. Kind of like Butterknife ArĂȘte, great climb guarded by a bitch hike.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rocky Butte : (9) Toothpick Wall : Vertical Therapy (5.9)
By: another Chad When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: This one very rarely gets led. Fun climb though. Wish the jamming lasted longer.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Pack Animal (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: What is the rappel situation for getting off of Pack Animal?

BSwett, I agree that Taiwan On is unusually hard for a 5.10c. Then again, Reason To Be seems abnormally hard for a 10d so maybe my arĂȘte technique stinks.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Calamity Jam (5.10c)
By: another Chad When: Aug 31, 2015

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Comments: Calamity Jam is great...maybe the best gear protected climb on tuff I've done at Smith. On par with Wartley's for quality, in my opinion.

A lot of people won't care but doubles in middle-sized nuts might be nice if you like to have quick & easy protection. A 60m rope will just get you down if you're using the fixed anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : 5 Gallon Buckets (5.8)
By: another Chad When: Aug 27, 2015

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Comments: Why are people reporting spinning hangers? It's like stapling a flyer to a telephone pole warning your neighbors there's a dead squirrel in the road.

Tighten the thing up a bit, it is either going to be a 1/2" or 9/16" head.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Sanity Assassin (5.6)
By: another Chad When: Aug 26, 2015

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Comments: The crack is a fun romp. There's an odd two-bolt variation on the face to the right. 5.10+ if you don't use the crack at all. Shared anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Wally Street (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Aug 23, 2015

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Comments: I totally agree that this should be part of the Carver Circuit. Really a great line.

Some of the bolts are hard to clip, as Matt mentioned; specifically the 2nd and 3rd. The climbing is so demanding through the middle of the route that pausing to clip is tough.


Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Yellow Wall : Chariots of Fire (5.11c)
By: another Chad When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Chariots of Fire is really unique and a great challenge. If anyone is interested in top-roping it, you can get to the anchor by climbing both pitches of Rites of Passage, then get lowered about twenty feet and traverse right on a lichen covered ledge. Aim for the little filbert bush and you'll get to the anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Night Vision (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Jul 31, 2015

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Comments: Pete, so the pin is holding falls and presumably kept you from taking a plunge and you advocate not using it?

If I remember correctly, nobody is going to take more than a mini-fall on that anyway as the climbing is over when the pin is at you waist. Right?

Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Carver : Carver Cliff : Rockgarden Wall : Cherry Cola (5.11d)
By: another Chad When: Jul 11, 2015

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Comments: The two 5.11d's at Carver seem really hard for the grade (Burning From the Inside being the other). Strange.

Is Cherry Cola really only one letter grade harder than Uncola? Both (Cherry & Burning) feel significantly harder than Angular Motion and on par with Wally Street for difficulty.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Expressway (5.11b)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Great climb. Reminded me a bit of Smith Rock's Heinous Cling, though easier and less scary.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Crash Landing (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: The best crimps I've ever felt. Awesome little climb.

Chad


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Pick Pocket (5.11a)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Really thrilled to have been able to climb Pick Pocket. The route is fantastic and it was nice to climb a Bachar route.

Chad


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : (4) Gold Wall : Beyond the Glory (5.11c/d)
By: another Chad When: Jun 12, 2015

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Comments: Brunt, either way works. It seems that most people stop at the Screaming For Change anchor.

Chad


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (i) The Fourth Horsemen : Headless Horseman (5.10d)
By: another Chad When: Apr 21, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Kent!


Chad


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : (1) North Face : Cindyrella (5.12a)
By: another Chad When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Two & a half years ago I posted the comment above. Crickets. Today I removed the bare stud between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. As I said before, it appears that this was the remnant of an older retrobolting.

Phillip is right, the bolt protecting the crux (2nd bolt) was a rusted out piece of junk. I replaced it today with beefy SS hardware.


Chad


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