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Anonymous Coward


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Sep 30, 2005
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Point Rank: # 24
Total Points: 10,187
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
299 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Anonymous Coward been climbing?










Contributions


All 5105 | Routes 356 | Areas 49 | Photos 401 | Page Improvements | Comments 3878 | Posts 19 | Stars 402 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Litlle Kitten (5.10c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: This route is awesome.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Citadel (V8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Yes, it's called The Citadel - Will L., FA.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Classic Finger Crack (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 7, 2005

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Comments: Is this area open now? The sign I saw last week on the orange fencing said closed until 10/23 under penalty of $300 fine for anyone caught climbing in the entire Dome area.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Split Rocks : Isles in the Sky : Dolphin (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 6, 2005

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Comments: too wide!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Hatchet Crack (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 6, 2005

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Comments: Climbed it last night and added some webbing and a rap ring on what I assumed to be "the horn" just above the bomber bolt with two rap rings. A 70m rope got us back to the ramp with just a few feet to spare. Don't worry though, cause as stated above you could do 2 one rope raps using the anchors on the slab route next too it. Gear was solid the whole way. Climb felt kinda like an offwidth sloping the wrong way. I thought the crux was just above where the book says it is. Just my $0.02


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Disappearing Angel : Disappearing Angel (5.8 C1)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: i believe kevin chase freed this at the same time tom gilje put up satans revenge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Satellite Boulders : The Wave Traverse (V1)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: In spite of not liking traverses, I really enjoyed this problem. I'm surprised it doesn't get more attention.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag : Flaming Groovy (5.12c)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: by the way, our fearless leader, jay smith perpetrated the first ascent of this route in the finest of style, ground up. like many of the routes in mcc, the route was previewed on the rappel, and then the leader began climbing. many thanks to jay for teaching many of us who cut our teeth putting up routes for instilling this finest of ethics upon many of us who climbed here.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Sharks Fin : Shark's Breath (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: To the AC whose wife was offended:You seem to be speaking from a very uneducated perspective about bolt replacement that occurs in the Black Hills area. First off Ron Yahne is a pillar in our climbing community. He has fostered the climber/land manager relationship with great poise and dignity longer plus more effectivly than any other climber in this area. Many great great things have come from Ron's continual hard work. It is very unfair to condemn Ron or the others performing bolt replacement... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Gonzo's Lament (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: I just did this a few days ago and wanted to comment on a few things. First, this is a fantastic route. About the pitches:

Pitch 1: The short corner near the top of this pitch takes a blue Metolius tri-cam well, right at the lip, which you'll appreciate when doing the mantle-esque finish. Awkward and fun. 100 ft

Pitch 2: I did the standard pitch up the wide left-facing corner to a belay notch. A few # 4 Camalots are nice. Be careful (or at least be careful for your belayer below) midw... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 5, 2005

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Comments: I am planning a trip to RMNP over Thanksgiving weekend. I would like to do alpine routes in the Long's/ Meeker area - Dreamweaver, Darkstar, Notch, Alexanders'....) would these be possible to climb in the end of November, avi and all? Is their even ice left on these routes this late? I know and understand the whole changing conditions thing, I was wondering more about if these routes are climbed at all this late in the fall? Not knowing much local bata, all info would be great. thanks Jon from ... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: You can get off this with a single 70m rope into the "gully" climber's right of the route. - BJ Sbarra


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : Barnum Rock
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: Some fun climbs in here, especially the 5.9..

Suitable for beginning leaders if they have a good lead head, there are some should-not-fall situations, runouts on easy slabs and ledges..


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : Rightside Variation (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 4, 2005

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Comments: Great in one pitch if you have PLENTY of gear and like thin awkward cracks!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Cynical Pinnacle : Center Route (5.9+)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 3, 2005

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Comments: Leave the #4 and 3.5 at home you don't need them. You can also rap the route with one 60m rope. It takes a little longer (raps) but you don't need to worry about hauling (and hiking) with up a second rope. Best 5.9+ I've ever done! Dave of The Kirtlands


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 2, 2005

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Comments: This climb is missing a bolt. I believe it is the fifth bolt that is without a hanger so there is a groundfall runout over some easy ground to the roof. Though it is easy in this section... it would result in serious injury to fall here. If you can't hold it together mentally, you might want to shy away from this till the hanger is replaced. Also... there are hangers without chains at the top so prepare to belay from above and walk off.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Not One Of Us (5.12a)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: A decent route, I wasn't a big fan but then again I don't really know shit about shit. I would [recommend] that if you are going to put in the effort then you should carry a second 60m rope for an [awesome] 170' rappel all the way to the bottom. This saves tons of time plus you get the an [awesome] view of this section of the canyon, under the third pitch.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Oct 1, 2005

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Comments: First of all, I wasn't whining about the approach, I just said it's long by LCC standards, which is true. Secondly, I know how to finger jam. Thirdly, you violated the only guideline to this site: don't be a jerk.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 30, 2005

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Comments: Some folks just don't like a nice granite crack climb....but if you do....this route is a GREAT, MUST DO LCC classic. aproach keeps the lighweights out but is no big deal, or for a more varied outing do Cresent/final link to the Coffin...or better yet, lead the coffin and the second pitch corner all as one! great stuff!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Coffin Buttress : The Coffin (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: I thought this would be something special, but it really wasn't. It has a weird start then the finger locks are funky and off-finger sized. Plus, the approach is fairly long by LCC standards. It looks cool and it's easy, but it's really not what it's built up to be. I will say that it gets more fun towards the top and the traverse. Sorry to rain on this parade, but I would have liked to know ahead of time that there are people out there who aren't enamored by it.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Lizzie Borden (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Thanks for the clarification. Sounds like another character building LCC gear route! Nice work!


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Gate Buttress : Schoolroom Area : Lizzie Borden (5.9)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 29, 2005

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Comments: Nice Nathan! Always wanted to do this route, but never knew much about it. Why isn't it for a 5.9 leader? runout? no gear? Just curios what you meant by that.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower Two : Rosy Crucifixion (5.10a PG13)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: No need for a stick to clip the first bolt. Look 5' to the left of the start and you'll see a bomber slot for a big stopper (#8 rock or so).


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Continue-us (5.11b R)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: No longer a climb between the lines, but a climb along the lines. Another true Eldo classic?


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : South Seas : Sharks Fin : Shark's Breath (5.7)
By: Anonymous Coward When: Sep 28, 2005

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Comments: To Ron and all the rest of you bolters. You guys don't even know who the 1st acentionist are since they were done back in the early 60's and early 70's. It seems that maybe you should all go to a gym if you want to dummy down every rock and line you come to. With that said, I do not, nor do I condone any chopping of bolts. Bolt chopping and bolting just needs to stop. My wife gets tired of taking pictures of beautiful rock formations with a bunch of hardware sticking out of it


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