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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : East Wall (5.5 PG13)
By: Angie C When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Following the super traverse on P2 could be psychologically challenging for a newbie with the potential for pendulum. Fortunately, the climbing is quite easy. I have seen a handful of people exhausted/annoyed with the seemingly unending traverse on P2.
Many people at the group belay ledge after P2 commented on how they were amazed at the super traverse we did from the start of the climb. If you want to do a lot of traversing, this is your climb.
Also, do the 5.9 variation at the very end of ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : Central Wall : Bookmark (5.7)
By: Angie C When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's really tight to link the first and second pitches with a 60m rope. The party in front of us had a 60 meter and the belayer had to climb a couple steps for the leader to have room to make the anchor. We used a 70 meter and had zero problems.
That offwidth on the second pitch is something else! A refreshing change from the typical LL climbing I do. Not as much in the way of the LL dikes to help, so you have to use cracks and friction a little more on this climb. Also, get ready to shi... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Frogland (5.8)
By: Angie C When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route on Sept 16, and there wasn't any other parties on the route. An all around fantastic climb. I found that compared to Lake Tahoe and Yosemite climbing, the grade was a little soft for a 5.8, but there were a couple teeny moves, where I thought to my self... "yeah, that feels 5.8"
The roof traverse on the 4th pitch following by the moves right afterwards would qualify as true 5.8. There were less than a handful of other places where I'd say it was 5.8.
Nevertheless, such a cool... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Lembert Dome : Northwest Face : Northwest Books (5.6)
By: Angie C When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I highly recommend the 5.9 variation on the second pitch. I do not think I would have enjoyed this route so much with out it. The views are great.
Regarding the walk off, if you cut right too soon, the third class walk off turns into fourth class, which I found to be unfortunately stressful at the end of a climbing day.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : ... : Photo
By: Angie C When: Jun 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with jpvandever. this is not the crux roof. It's one more pitch up.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Angie C When: Apr 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1 had some water which was annoying and slippery, but the real water is still a stream running down Pitch 3 (as of April 21). Makes the pitch trickier, for sure.
The main narrativesays the crux mantle is overrated and actually has has good hand holds. I disagree. I suppose that would be true if you were at least 5'10" tall. For people under 5'7", there is not much for the hands. At 5'5", I found this crux to be pretty tough.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : The Footstool, Right (5.4)
By: Angie C When: Nov 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My buddy and I tried to do this climb this past weekend. The approach seemed longer than 20 mins, like the supertopo said.
I would NOT recommend this climb right now. The area is very unsafe with lots of falling rock. Right as we tied in a massive slab 15 feet wide fell from about 250 feet up on el cap and landed about 30 feet away from where we were tying in to do the climb. We looked around and noticed where we were standing was all freshly fallen granite. Needless to say we got out of... more >>
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