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Member Since: Mar 14, 2006
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 458
Total Points: 1,321
Last Year: 12
Last 30 Days: 0
20 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andyf been climbing?










Contributions


All 275 | Routes 33 | Areas 27 | Photos 109 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 6 | Stars 46 | Ratings 13
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Chunkyard : Superchunk (5.9+)
By: andyf When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: The description and photos are of Superchunk (I called it 5.8; others have said .10a), not Hidden in Plain View. HIPL is (currently) the next route to the left, left of the white streak.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area : Columns Holiday (5.10c)
By: andyf When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: I (as the first ascentionist) have always climbed straight up at the finish, using two small high crimps and high-stepping onto the good edge you clip the last bolt from. I've always considered this the crux of the route.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : South Fork Cliff : Main Wall : What Would Jesus Do? (5.12a)
By: andyf When: Oct 16, 2012

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Comments: Well, if Jesus could make wine out of a loaf of bread or whatever, I suppose he could conjure up some gear placements on this route. Absent divine intervention, however, you'll be hard-pressed to find relevant gear anywhere outside of the 5.10 finger crack that makes up the final 15 feet. The last bolt on the route protects this stretch and I debated whether to place it. Ultimately, I decided to stay in character with the rest of the route. If you don't want to clip it, bring along a couple ... more >>


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Lava Point : Lava Wall/Deadheads : Solid Forth (5.10d)
By: andyf When: Jul 7, 2012

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Comments: A couple of corrections: The route is named Solid Froth, not Forth. And it's more like a 70 or 75-foot pitch.


Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Little Dome : BURB's II Boulders : Layback Flake 101 (V0-)
By: andyf When: Apr 23, 2012

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Comments: Called "The Arching Crack Problem" (in the "Morning Veranda Area") on p. 81 of Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide (Sharp End, 2011).


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : ... : Photo
By: andyf When: Dec 24, 2011

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Comments: Yarp: The route climbs both of the chalked seams. The better gear is in the left seam, but you place it where you can get it. I'd say the send is not only clean, but proud.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Pure Pleasure (5.6) : Photo
By: andyf When: Nov 2, 2011

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Comments: Looks like Fritz is about to experience the pleasure of rope drag


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome Area : Duty Dome : Jazzy Document (5.9)
By: andyf When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: I think this route is closer to 50 feet than 150 feet.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area : Dancing Madly Backwards (5.11a)
By: andyf When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: The bolted direct start was added in 2008 and is intended to be independent of the original start. FA Andy Fitz & Ed Mosshart. The two starts join at an easy mantle where a thin crack corner (original start) and an arete (direct start) meet. We reached the mantle without bailing to the thin crack as described above. Doing it this way involves a .10a slab/arete move with a bolt right in your face. The original start (bouldery ~.10c crux) has no bolts and can still be done on gear. If you beg... more >>


Location: ID : Q'Emilin Park : Garden Wall : Sherman (5.9-)
By: andyf When: Oct 9, 2011

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Comments: Not to burst your bubble, Paul, but going left at the roof isn't 5.10, at least in my book.

As of 10/07/11, there are now 7 bolts on the route. The top is overbolted, with 3 clips in little more than a body span. The last clip is made with a bolt at your hip. It detracts from an otherwise fun route on cool rock.


Location: WA
By: andyf When: Aug 25, 2011

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Comments: Well that sucks. WTF? Seriously?

We'll take Smith Rock in return.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Lava Point : Lava Wall/Deadheads : Long, Strange Clip (5.11b)
By: andyf When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: As for the name and hard to reach bolt, before a lower bolt was added off the ledge, it was somewhat exciting to balance up and clip the crux bolt, especially if you're in the 5'8" range (as is the first ascentionist). Not so anymore...


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Another One Bites the Dust (5.8)
By: andyf When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: This is Another One Bites the Dust, traditionally rated 5.8. FA Norm Reid, 1988.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Private Passion (5.7)
By: andyf When: May 13, 2011

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Comments: This route is actually Private Passion, traditionally rated 5.7. FA Andy Fitz, 1987 (on-sight free solo).


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Main Face : The Arete-Acal (5.10a)
By: andyf When: Apr 25, 2011

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Comments: As of 4/25/11, the anchor bolts still need chains. You can rap from draws (retrievable from another climb) or walk off to another anchor.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Main Face : Render Us Weightless Roof (5.8)
By: andyf When: Apr 13, 2011

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Comments: FA: Jamie Christensen, 1976

There's also a direct start on the pillar below the roof, starting on the right side of the pillar and crossing over to the left. You can see the last two bolts (out of five) in the pic. FA: Andy Fitz & Ed Mosshart, 2008. Probably 9+/.10- and fun (much better than the OW start IMO). You can either finish w/ the Render Us Weightless roof or move right under the roof to finish on Ball & Chain (.10a finger crack). Both finishes require gear.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Treatment Bound (5.10a)
By: andyf When: Sep 16, 2010

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Comments: IMO, the moves on the actual start to Treatment Bound (especially moving around the little roof) are more fun than anything on Cruel Harvest. Check it out next time!


Location: WA : Central Region : Vantage (Frenchman Coulee) : Sunshine Wall : King Pins : ... : Photo
By: andyf When: Aug 8, 2010

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Comments: Looks more like Human Sacrifice/Middle East Wall...


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Wild Cat Wall : Street Walking Cheetah (5.11+)
By: andyf When: Jul 18, 2010

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Comments: That's how I was going to do it. I thought the first clip would be where you're standing on the horizontal break that pretty much marks the end of the finger crack.

While you're working up there, you should clean Iron Oxide (the crux especially)! That line would be as stellar as its neighbors with a little cleaning.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Wild Cat Wall : Street Walking Cheetah (5.11+)
By: andyf When: Jul 16, 2010

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Comments: Mike--

I understand from a credible source that this was climbed free by Erik Thixton and a partner (mid '90s?), but never named. Don't know what they graded it. I can try to find out more.

I looked over at this years ago when I was cleaning Colonnade. It looked to me like it could end higher (above the current anchor), over the bulge to give access to the upper tier of rock. Check it out.

It's still a bit confusing to me whether Tieton River Rocks means to refer to this line as "Fireston... more >>


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Tumwater Canyon : Castle Rock : Damnation Crack (5.9)
By: andyf When: Jun 26, 2010

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Comments: What makes this the "correct" finish? Per Beckey's 1965 Guide to Leavenworth Rock Climbing Areas: "...climb 6 feet until the crux is passed (5.7-5.8). Another 10 feet reaches the top of the tower."

Not that it matters a flip where you choose to end up, but the anchor to the left was established for Dan's Dreadful Direct. Again per Beckey (1965): "About 100 feet up, just above and to the left of Jello Tower, a hanging belay was established from one of the bolts."


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Royal Columns : Orange Sunshine area : The Price of Complacency (5.11b)
By: andyf When: Jan 18, 2010

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Comments: Overhauled with shiny new 12mm bolts on 1/18/10.


Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : Lava Point : Lava Wall/Deadheads : Muted reality (5.11a)
By: andyf When: Dec 14, 2009

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Comments: Been a few years, but I think it's still working. I was surprised to find a scorpion under one of the rocks I gathered for the wall.


Location: WA : Northeast Corner & Spokane : Spokane Area : McLellan Rocks : Pack Rat Cave : Rat Run (5.10a/b)
By: andyf When: Dec 14, 2009

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Comments: Fun reefing along an overhanging rail. A tad steeper than the typical 5.10.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Duty Dome Area : Off Duty : Aquamarine (5.10a)
By: andyf When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: This is a great sustained slab line with cool rock and cruxes that keep on coming right to the end. It's a little more exciting (but still reasonable) if you cast off without the supplemental gear. No problem combining "pitches" (and rapping off) with a 60m.


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