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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Central Gully : Straight, No Chaser (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I, for one, applaud the selfless bolting efforts of Matt and Romain. Thanks for your hard work and vision regarding this oft-overlooked area. I also hope that no one "dies on rappel".
Happy climbing...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Little Buckaroo (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While this route just barely squeezes between two other routes, its moves are distinct, engaging, and quite memorable. I'm surprised this line has gone unnoticed for so long. Beware grabbing any holds on the "roof" above the third and fourth bolts, as the rock quality is not inspiring.
I'm guessing Mike and I have the third ascent?
Just kidding...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Hangin' Tree : RCM (Redneck Cracker Mother... (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thinking the stemming option verboten, I did the start with only the face-holds, and was promptly surprised by the difficulty—and quality—of the route. Be warned, however, that a fall during the first twenty feet of climbing could end with a decidedly brutal "pinball" fall down the corridor. The non-stemming start is cool, but not secure.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Velocity Boy (5.11c)
By: andy patterson When: May 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: At first glance, the opening moves of this route look frustratingly hard. Once you figure out the sequence, however, you might kick yourself for making things so difficult.
Good route. Much better than Danger Boy.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Eat My Dust (5.11b)
By: andy patterson When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed. As far as I'm concerned, this route IS Exoduster, or Exoduster-enhanced. I mean, it goes to the top of the formation, follows a natural line of travel, and is continuously engaging. What's not to like? The crux after the chains on Exoduster is--I hate to say it--fairly height dependent. If you're short, the moves requires a dyno. The top crux is decidedly technical, and aesthetic.
Certainly deserves more traffic.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Point : Pocket Pussy (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: May 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The start is a little inobvious (it looks like it might go direct without the arete to the left, but the moves are NOT 12a...), but once you gain the first bolt, the moves are engaging and surprisingly sustained. From the bottom, the route doesn't look steep, but you end up hanging on your hands quite a bit. Fabulous route, fabulous pockets.
Also, if anyone says this route is height dependent, they're wrong. My fiancee is 5'4" and she figured out a great sequence.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : South Face : Bolee Gold (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: May 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree: the first pitch is full-value, and the second pitch only has a few cruxes. The second pitch, however, is a bit more runout than the first. We continued to the third belay, but quickly became bored of 5.6R knob-hauls, and rappelled back down. Apparently, you can go to the top via more easy "R" climbing.
Very exposed climb, and reminiscent of the Valley. A must-do at the Loaf.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Sugarloaf : East Face : Taurus (5.11b)
By: andy patterson When: May 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto... this route is fantastic, and sustained. Climbing the crux clean doesn't mean you'll style the rest of the line, as the moves stay decidedly un-trivial till the "jug" holds after the undercling/layback.
Protect the opening moves with a nut and a small cam (I used a purple Metolius Master Cam; it worked splendidly). After that, punch it to a good ledge and get ready for the 10+ business.
Awesome...
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Location: WV : New River Gorge
By: andy patterson When: Apr 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also have a weather question:
I'm coming from California in May (Memorial Day weekend) and I'm curious what the weather is typically like. Are we talking hot and humid?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Pixie Rock : Silent but Deadly (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route in the mid-afternoon, when the rock was hot and greasy. It was no giveaway. I would go so far as to call it 5.11b/c or straight up 5.11c. In any case, the crux was immensely fun and crimpy. A definite "do" route at Pixie Rock.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Dream On (5.10b)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll be honest: this route felt haaard for 5.10b. Maybe I botched the sequence, I don't know. In any case, I found it quite enjoyable, and the upper crux very engaging. One of the best routes at the Tall Wall.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Tall T (5.10b)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree: this route proved to be quite fun and sustained. I definitely give it three stars.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Cattle Pocket : ... : Pop (5.11a)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Highly enjoyable face climbing in a stunning location. Classic Alabama Hills style climb. The crux past the first bolt is well-protected, and the rest of the climb stays relatively mellow, though engaging.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Fat Black Mama (5.11c)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Matt, the rock quality is quite good on this route, especially compared to Pirates on Horseback. The crux, however, seems contrived, since it feels unnatural to grab the arete past the third bolt. Maybe you avoid the crux by STEPPING left, not simply using the holds out left. I don't know. Perhaps I'm mincing moves. In any case, fun climbing all around.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Tall Wall : Banana Split (5.8)
By: andy patterson When: Mar 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree:
Calling this route a 5.10 is a stretch. I give it a 5.9 start, then 5.8 for the rest.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Green Dome
By: andy patterson When: Dec 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I couldn't disagree less with Kristin.
While there are some decidedly un-memorable routes here in the easier grades, once you enter the 5.12 realm, the climbing improves dramatically. Monsters in the Maze (5.12b) is truly one of the best lines I've ever been on in Santa Barbara. While I haven't climbed on the other 12's and 13's yet (emphasis on YET), they look spectacularly technical and fun.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara
By: andy patterson When: Oct 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of Fall 2008, much of the climbing on West Camino Cielo is closed due to some sort of post-fire mulch operation instituted by the Forest Service. Lizard's Mouth is still open, but places like the Brickyard and the Playground are off-limits until (apparently) next Fall. Please respect the Forest Service's wishes and don't climb the closed areas. There's plenty of other rock in the area.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Echo Cove - North Side : Pinky Lee (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Indeed, this route is over far too quickly. Not a trivial lead, but not particularly bad as well. I found the crux quite protectable, actually. I was able to equalize a nut and a finger-sized cam in the second pod, providing decent protection through the initial tough moves.
Oh, and for the record, this route is 5.11a.
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Igor Unchained (5.9+)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually...
I found P1 and P2 to be the physical crux of the route. Perhaps I'm silly. P3, while cerainly a smorgasborg of steep jugs and jam-cracks, seemed to have myriad stances to rest and place gear. Of course, I'm not out to bicker about grades. The whole route is sustained, both in brilliance, location, and incentive (awesome summit). I agree with previous suggestions to double up on cams, and to bring a full set of nuts. P3 swallows stoppers. I think I only placed one or two cams on the ... more >>
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Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : Dome Rock : Just Barely (5.11b PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 29, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Once I figured out that you HAD to dyno past the first bolt, I laughed so hard that I had to come down and try the climb all over again. This pitch is truly unique.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the 5.11+ finish at the end (last three bolts), and found it rather thought provoking, but ultimately safe. Certainly much, much harder than the arete. In fact, I didn't have a guidebook at the time, so I thought the climb was sandbagged 5.10c. Woops. I would like to lead the entire route via the middle line of attack some time. It looks great!
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Caveman : Caveman (5.11+)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guidebook says 11c, a lot of other folks call it 12a, so I compromised by calling it 11+. Whatever it is, expect it to feel harder than other 11c's you've done.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Upper Theology Crag : The Trouble With Normal (5.11c)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this line today and found the crux as exciting as ever. In my opinion, this route touts one of the most memorable crux sequences in the area, with the possible exception of T-Crack. Please, go do this route. Tread softly (as possible) on the middle section. Some holds may not last forever.
Also, the anchors on this route are suspect. Some new bolts might be nice.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Upper Theology Crag : Trial of Faith (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: Jul 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: As hinted in the description, I'm pretty sure this climb awaits a FFA. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong. Kudos to the stalwart spirit who attempts to place gear on this line.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Young William (5.12a R)
By: andy patterson When: Jun 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leading Young William is an exercise in mental/calf-muscle focus. I didn't have enough of either and fell off before clipping the first bolt. Luckily, the higher you go, the easier it gets (sort of). I'd recommend a crashpad (or two, or three) for the start. Think of this route as a 20 foot V4 or V5 boulder problem. Maybe that doesn't help... it's still a long way to climb with no pro.
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