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Member Since: Jun 7, 2005
Last Visit: Jul 14, 2009
Contact Andy Leach


Point Rank: # 1,493
Total Points: 130
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 30
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
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Where has Andy Leach been climbing?


11 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











Andy Leach

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (90) | Routes (2) | Areas | Photos (15) | Comments (35) | Posts (18) | Stars (18) | Ratings (2)
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Flour Power Couloir (FA)

WI2- Steep Snow

Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 feet, Grade II

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Andrews Creek & The Gash

1 person

Jun 15, 2009

Flattop Gully

Steep Snow

Snow, 1000 feet

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Flattop Mountain - N side

Feb 9, 2007

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Tackling the water ice step about 1/3 of the way up the couloir.  A second tool is handy here but it's so short and easy that no protection is called for.  It may be possible to avoid the ice with some 3rd class scrambling on skiers right.

Tackling the water ice step about 1/3 of the way up the couloir. A second tool is handy here but it's so short and easy that no protection is called for. It may be possible to avoid the ice with som

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Flour Power Couloir (WI2- Steep Snow)

Jun 15, 2009

The beginning of Flour Power Couloir.

The beginning of Flour Power Couloir.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Flour Power Couloir (WI2- Steep Snow)

Jun 15, 2009

The very beginning of the couloir.  The Sharkstooth dominates the scenery in the distance.

The very beginning of the couloir. The Sharkstooth dominates the scenery in the distance.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Flour Power Couloir (WI2- Steep Snow)

Jun 15, 2009

Near the top of Flour Power Couloir.  This is the steepest snow of the route - possibly exceeding 60 degrees.

Near the top of Flour Power Couloir. This is the steepest snow of the route - possibly exceeding 60 degrees.

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Flour Power Couloir (WI2- Steep Snow)

Jun 15, 2009

Adam on the direct 5.7+ start of Inwood Arete.  There were basically 4 distinct crack systems on the face.  This is the rightmost - it looked to be the driest, most continuous, and easiest to protect of the four crack systems.

Adam on the direct 5.7+ start of Inwood Arete. There were basically 4 distinct crack systems on the face. This is the rightmost - it looked to be the driest, most continuous, and easiest to protect

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Inwood Arete (5.4 R)

Aug 21, 2007

Cleaning up the anchor atop "Red Venus".

Cleaning up the anchor atop "Red Venus".

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Red Venus (5.6)

Jul 31, 2006

Halfway up "Blow Tube Envy."

Halfway up "Blow Tube Envy."

CO : Colorado Springs : ... : Blow Tube Envy (5.7)

Jul 31, 2006

Three options above the East Meadow (we did the 5.4 variation I indicated).  Photo taken June 25, 2006.  Sorry for the crappy stitch job.

Three options above the East Meadow (we did the 5.4 variation I indicated). Photo taken June 25, 2006. Sorry for the crappy stitch job.

CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Spiral Route (5.4)

3 people

Jun 28, 2006

Alpine glow on the CMC Face as seen from the rap station on Drizzlepuss.  For more photos visit my web site:  <a href='http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114' target='_blank'>http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcatego>>>>></a>

Alpine glow on the CMC Face as seen from the rap station on Drizzlepuss. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcatego>>>>>

WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : CMC Route (5.5)

1 person

Jun 6, 2006

Climbing on the CMC Face with Falling Ice Glacier and the West Horn below.  For more photos visit my web site:  <a href='http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114' target='_blank'>http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcatego>>>>></a>

Climbing on the CMC Face with Falling Ice Glacier and the West Horn below. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcatego>>>>>

WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : CMC Route (5.5)

1 person

Jun 6, 2006

Traversing below Unsoeld's Needle.  During the ascent we simul-climbed it but during the descent we downclimbed it unroped.  Drizzlepuss is in shadow in the background.  For more photos visit my web site:  <a href='http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114' target='_blank'>http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcatego>>>>></a>

Traversing below Unsoeld's Needle. During the ascent we simul-climbed it but during the descent we downclimbed it unroped. Drizzlepuss is in shadow in the background. For more photos visit my web s

WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : CMC Route (5.5)

1 person

Jun 6, 2006

Downclimbing Drizzlepuss to the rap station.  Barry (red jacket) is standing at the rap station.  The rappel is less than 100' to the notch.  For more photos visit my web site:  <a href='http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcategoryid=114' target='_blank'>http://www.leachfam.com/securearea/subcategory.php?subcatego>>>>></a>

Downclimbing Drizzlepuss to the rap station. Barry (red jacket) is standing at the rap station. The rappel is less than 100' to the notch. For more photos visit my web site: http://www.leachfam.co

WY : Grand Teton National Park : ... : CMC Route (5.5)

2 people

Jun 6, 2006

Kristin and Peter hang out at the belay ledge atop the second pitch.  You can see Fabio beginning the second pitch far below.

Kristin and Peter hang out at the belay ledge atop the second pitch. You can see Fabio beginning the second pitch far below.

CO : Flatirons : ... : East Face South Side or Lef... (5.5)

Jan 9, 2006

Me toproping Remission.

Me toproping Remission.

CO : Lyons : ... : Remission (5.7)

Jul 11, 2005

Kara follows up Little Flatiron Left.

Kara follows up Little Flatiron Left.

CO : Lyons : ... : Little Flatiron Left [aka W... (5.6)

Jul 11, 2005

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Taylor Glacier
By: Andy Leach When: Aug 4, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Conditions could not have been more perfect 8/3/08. It was great to beat the heat of the Front Range and play in the snow. Here are some photos: http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/110/Taylor_Peak_Taylor_>>>>>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mount Sneffels : Snake (Dogleg) Couloir (Steep Snow)
By: Andy Leach When: Jun 16, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I was with jfox. You can see some photos and a video at http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/107/Mount_Sneffels_Snak>>>>>

Regarding the direct finish that Roach calls 5.6 - it seems to me that you would have to do something pretty contrived and really go out of your way to find much 5.6. The way we went (which seemed like the logical direct finish from the top of the couloir) was no more than 4th class. What we did looks like what is pictured in Julian Smith's photo above http://www.... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Martha (5.6 WI2+ M2-3)
By: Andy Leach When: May 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I was up it May 17, 2008. The snow was kind of crappy, but the ice in the pitch 4 crux was fat. I got two solid screws in it. I don't know how long these conditions will last though given the extremely warm temps forecasted this week.

I shot a video of the climb that you can see here: http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/105/Mount_Lady_Washingt>>>>>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Andy Leach When: Nov 21, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I've done this twice - both times south-to-north. The first time I ascended the standard route on South Maroon, the second time we came up Bell Cord Couloir. The Cord is definitely the way to go - soooooo much more enjoyable. The second time I shot a video of the climb which I think captures the cruxes nicely: http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/66/Maroon_Peak_Bell_Cor>>>>>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Andy Leach When: Nov 3, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I received this note from Charles Ehlert regarding a trip report I had posted on my website. I thought some here might enjoy:

Found your site http://www.andyintherockies.com while Googling Blitzen Ridge on Ypsilon Peak. Many years ago (about Sept 1958) Phil Ritterbush, Clint Brooks, Jim Walker, Dave Fedson and I (students at Yale at the time) did the first ascent of the Blitzen Ridge. We were slow, got to the summit just before dark. Spent a cold night out, wrapped up in a climbing rope - ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Quandary Peak : Inwood Arete (5.4 R)
By: Andy Leach When: Aug 21, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: Normally I don't give much heed to people that badmouth alpine routes as loose and dirty etc. I figure they're just sport climbers not used to the alpine environs. However, in this case I agree - Inwood Arete is a pretty nasty route. I won't be back. We did the direct 5.7+ start. It was wet and dirty. We also found what could be the dihedral/chimney people are talking about. The dihedral we found was easy but the roof at the top was a bit challenging - 5.7 maybe? It was also wet and dirt... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: Andy Leach When: Aug 15, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed Blitzen Ridge August 12, 2007. Find some photos, a video, and a trip report at http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/90/Ypsilon_Mountain_Bli>>>>>.

We passed the first three aces on the south and the 4th ace on the north. We ended up downclimbing the third ace on belay which I think was probably faster than rappelling. The most difficult moves I did all day was the last bit of the headwall, but my partner informed me that if I had stepped to the right a meter I would have fo... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Bell Cord Couloir
By: Andy Leach When: Jun 25, 2007

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed Bell Cord and did the traverse June 23, 2007. Conditions were ideal - the Cord was in nicely but the rest was dry. You can watch my video at http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/66/Maroon_Peak_Bell_Cor>>>>>.


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