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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Threshold Of A Dream (5.11d)
By: Andy Donson When: Jun 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Terry Murphy and I toproped and scrubbed this route a couple of years ago but never bolted it cos we couldn't figure out how to remove the offending flake. Granted it's fine just using the fingerlock at the bottom, but as Dave said the flake kinda leads you on. I did shove a block off about 5 foot from the bottom of the route and then watched in horror as it accelerated down the slope, jumped the fence and barreled across the highway about 15 seconds before a car drove by. Ughhh. Nighttime trund... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : My Way (5.9)
By: Andy Donson When: Jul 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did Threshold with Crusher a couple of nights ago and ended up following the bolts. Looked at the guidebook later and it seems from Boulder Climbs North (Rossiter) that Threshold finishes left of the upper prow and Boulder Slips (FA solo by Erikson) takes the cracks on the right. In this case My Way is independent BUT having the bolts there still changes the character of both of the previous routes by affecting the runouts required on each. In my opinion having a mental challenge on a route is... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches : Dark Angel : West Face (5.11)
By: Andy Donson When: Apr 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch felt like 11a to me - short crux but hard to read.
On the hike out we were stopped by a ranger and asked to produce our chalkbags! Turns out that colored chalk is mandatory - not just encouraged. We narrowly avoided being ticketed. The ranger reasoned that it would be bad if the Arches ended up looking like Potash Road - he has a point. Next time Ill leave the chalk bag in the car.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses
By: Andy Donson When: Jan 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was still chopped as of April 2003 and is unlikely to have been re-installed, as it would require dealing with the Canyonlands N.P. bureaucracy. You might want to call them for the latest info on the status of the bolts.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Andy Donson When: Feb 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ditto the loweball beta for the first pitch. I found the last section of the 3rd pitch to be the hardest to do clean. Tried everything to no avail - I was just on the verge of pulling out the hammer when I found that just hand placing angles worked great. Didnt bother tying them off even though they stuck out a couple of inches, just clipped the eye, which seemed to add valuable torque. In general the pink tricam was the MVP - take a few.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Turkey Foot Crack (5.9)
By: Andy Donson When: Nov 22, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi Kevin, I remember thinking those blocks were pretty dubious last time I rapped off them. Maybe they were sufficient for the time being - but i think their days were numbered. Your solution sounds good.
In reply to "Another Estes Park Drunk" - maybe if you sobered up sometime you would know that Kevin has replaced virtually every crappy bolt in the Cathedral Spires over the last few years, and deserves a huge round of applause (and an apology from you).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Sea of Joy (5.13a A0)
By: Andy Donson When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Humble! - enough with the insults already.
I'll attempt to recall some useful detail:
Pitch 1. as described above. OK with one tricky move right at the end. Pitch 2: as above. Flambouyant. Pitch 3: An excellent pitch only slightly marred an out of place bolt at the crux. Weave up the beautiful rippled face to a vague twin crack feature which trends slightly right. Where this ends make crux moves back left to a bucket (big throw) - this move is made extra exciting by the unclippable bolt out... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Long John to V... : Rock For Climbing Routes To (5.10b)
By: Andy Donson When: Mar 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry about this, but I also did the FA of this back in '98, only to discover some time later that it was the top pitch of "Rock For Climbing Routes To" an Alec Sharp route from ages ago.It felt harder than 10b to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Mellow Fellow (5.12a)
By: Andy Donson When: Mar 13, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Plus, if you use double ropes you can utilize an excellent nut placement (#5 I think) in the flake on the left wall before embarking.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : Renaissance Wall : Renaissance Wall (5.12c)
By: Andy Donson When: Mar 12, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got a belay from the ground and made it to the top of the 3rd with a 60m rope (after backcleaning the first pitch), but wont do it that way next time. Clipping through the tenuous crux section was dire, what with the combination of drag and rope weight. Which is a shame as doing it all in one makes for an outstanding long pitch.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : High Noon (5.11a)
By: Andy Donson When: Mar 5, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The broken anchor bolt was replaced and rap rings/links installed during the Celebrate Eldo weekend 2002. This route is as good as any on the Blackwalk wall, and definitely a sandbag at 11a.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Tangen Towers : In Focus (5.10)
By: Andy Donson When: Jan 17, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hello, this is Anonymous Coward 140.226.55.118 speaking
I apologise for the negative tone of my comment, which wasnt a dig at the 3-star rating as much as at the patronizing and incorrect argument offered by anonymous coward #2. I promise to make only nice comments from here on.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: Andy Donson When: Oct 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I pulled off a hold at the top crux about a month ago - it was a pretty critical R-hand sidepull (for the sequence I had) - I didn't have time to figure out an alternative, but it seems that it may be a grade harder now. Sorry.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Verschneidung ... : Wingshot (5.11b)
By: Andy Donson When: Sep 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The blue anchor webbing went in June 2000 - it replaced some nasty chains. I dont know what the best solution is in the long run... a couple of juicy Mailon Rapides?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Andy Donson When: Jul 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess your leading Zimbabwean Rusty Baillie did it years ago
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Tourist Tragedy (5.9)
By: Andy Donson When: Jun 5, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Old Fart I've just submitted the details for Running. Hope you enjoy it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : Archaeopteryx (5.11d X)
By: Andy Donson When: May 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to keep things balanced, I think this is one of the best routes I've done around Boulder. I remember lichen being a bit thick on the last few moves of pitch 3 but that hardly detracts from the outstanding position and form of the last pitch. Also the gear isn't that dire, I remember emptying a rack of Friends on that last pitch. Nice cool spot for the coming months, too.
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