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Member Since: Aug 1, 2011
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 818 | Routes 48 | Areas 13 | Photos 23 | Page Improvements | Comments 107 | Posts | Stars 338 | Ratings 289
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr. : Serious Callers Only (5.10)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Similar to its neighbor (Tried for Treason), the pump builds on this one through increasing pulls on nice horizontals...like climbing a fatty campus board that leans back slightly. No one move is really hard than 10a, but they're all stacked on top of each other so by the time you clip the anchors you're fairly pumped. However, you can get some nice lock-off hand jams towards the end, giving you a break. Save a #2 or #3 for the end before the anchors.


Location: MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr. : Tried for Treason (5.11-)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: The gear is better than you think...save a .5 for the crux. I didn't find it to be a deadpoint move if you have good footwork. It is a really fun, somewhat reachy sequence though. No one move sequence seemed harder than solid 5.10 (which for me is 10c/d...I'm 5'6") but there's a lot of em and the pump builds on this one as you near the top...save a #2 or #3 for the top before the anchors.


Location: MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr. : Salty Dog Saloon (5.10c)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: There are likely several ways to approach the crux area. I started further left and traversed on decent holds over the large pile of green briar with a so-so C3 placed. The bolt feels more like a "yeah, the route goes here" type of piece that isn't really necessary (you can plug a bomber .75 about 8" lower) but it is what it is. Fun moves the rest of the way with great gear. Careful of the loose block a little ways up past the crux...don't think it's coming out soon but it's there.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 14, 2014

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Comments: Did P1 for the first time last month. Gunkiemike has it right...keep a cool head. It's R for sure but the moves are solid and the R isn't through the crux. Good pro at the crux and a good stance before to work it out.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : The Changling (5.11c)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Great route but not as good as Terra Firma due to the bolts.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: There is a 3rd rap station down the west face. You MUST have TWO 60m ropes to do this rappel to the ground. From the summit blocks, located the anchors just down over the west face (they're right around where the routes Green Wall and Pleasant Overhangs top out). Rap from these down to another set of rap anchors above the large Pleasant Overhangs wall. Rap from this second set to the ground. You'll basically be rapping on the line of Arrested Mental Development.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Cockfight (5.9+ PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Were more bolts added to this? I was expecting two bolts and there were actually four on this climb, the last one I thought was not needed but hey I clipped it anyway. Perhaps it was PG13 but this climb is totally protectable with a few small pieces. No need for a #2 unless you mean a C3...bomber piece at the crux moves under the right-facing corner/overhang before the last bolt. If the last bolt wasn't there you'd probably plug that #2 C4 cam Tom mentioned.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Broken Neck (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Yes, this is Breakneck Direct and it's a fantastic line...classic Seneca. There is a direct start to it which basically just climbs the PG13/R rock directly below the cracks instead of using the original Breakneck line to gain the cracks. Direct start is 5.9/10.

Agree with Kirby, place some bomber gear in the 2nd crack and gun it to the top. You can stop and place more gear (I did) but you definitely get more pumped that way!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) (5.5) : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Lower Skyline Direct is around the corner from this to the left. You can traverse to this spot by starting up LSD to a belay spot and continue traversing right (as Tony mentions in the comments on LSD. 2nd Ed, page 139). In that case, it would be a link-up between an LSD variation and Skyline Traverse. But this spot is the start of Pitch 1 of Skyline Traverse (2nd Ed, page 162).

Also, the start of The Tomato That Ate Cleveland (5.9) is visible on the right side of the photo.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : LSD Direct (5.4)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: Glad to see this added. Tony included this as a variation in the 2nd edition guidebook and I've asked him to clarify the LSD variations in the new book...assuming it ever comes out!


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Totem (5.11a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 12, 2014

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Comments: It's almost like there should be a second entry for this route for the P1 that everyone does and then the rest of the route.

The glue-ins at the end of P1 are for this route. You can use the cold-shuts to the left if you want to rig a TR, but the glue-ins are the anchors to continue up.

Pulling the crux roof is a height-related move...harder to get up and stick the bomber hand-jam if you're short because you need to get your feet up first. You can back up the pin in the roof crack with a bom... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point : The Flyin' Hawaiian (5.9 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 10, 2014

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Comments: Sling a chickenhead near the top for pro on that last bit.

One 60m rope will get you down from the pine tree to climber's left of the boulder on the top.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Try Again (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 1, 2014

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Comments: Dunno what the grey Dick guide is talking about with a blue camalot being helpful on this one near the crux. Directly right of the flexy pin at the crux is a vertical pin scar...a #000 C3 will go (or as I found out, a purple C3 with 2.5 lobes engaged). Luckily I didn't have to test either piece.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point : The Prowess (5.9 R)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 29, 2014

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Comments: Good friction moves on the slabby holds. Go all the way to the top on the left side or you miss out on some fun exposure. The gear is fine the whole way and you can sling a chicken-head type feature if you know how to do a simple girth hitch or a slip-knot. We rapped off the pine tree at the top (right on the edge) with a 60m rope and juuuust made it down.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Bold-Ville (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: I actually did what Seth was referring to and went all the way to The Winter. I realized the mistake and did a traverse left off the Winter anchor on the small holds to the large ledge. Only worked out OK because I had a Revolver biner or the drag would've been heinous.

On P2 I took it all the way to the GT ledge. Fun pitch until after the roof...then it's adventure climbing (I pulled out an old piton by hand!). If you're going to do this and only have one rope, take it ALL the way to the... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Airy Aria (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Maybe we just did this differently from the above description here...not sure. Climbed up to the bolts...felt 5.8ish and with the humidity the rock was rather grimy. From the bolts, did a 2nd pitch that traversed right under the large roof then out right around the corner (lovely exposed moves) and up through easier 5.5/5.6 climbing to the GT ledge.

From this point on the GT ledge, Lisa's last pitch is at least 30' to the right. If you attempt the overhanging corner that's only about 15' to ... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Walter Mitty (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Fun route that climbs better than it looks from the ground. Small offset cams will get used if you bring 'em.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Lovely route...quality and sustained. Traverses a good bit, so DMM Revolver biners are nice to have in those critical turn spots...if you have 'em, use 'em. Found the standard last pitch to be 10a...compares well with other old school areas back east like Seneca and the Gunks...a shade harder than the crux on Bring On The Nubiles at Seneca (9+).

The RR traverse was fun and airy. There was a long sling on one of the bolts, so I used that and then managed to put a slip-knot on a flake/chicke... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ridicullissima (5.10c PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: P1 as described in grey Williams is PG13/R. You get a solid #1 C4 about 3/4 up and then have a significant run up to your next piece over 5.8 ground. Other than that, the rest of the route protects beautifully. I built a bomber anchor on the ledge with 3 tricams (brown, red and pink) in the horizontal crack at the back. I left my #3 C4 on the ground and didn't regret it; could've placed it but not necessary.

The 2nd crux moves are beautiful, pumpy and steep.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: That pin on the P1 crux is pretty rusted and manky-looking. The moves are straightforward and I thought it best to just go for it with a #3 C4 below me.

I took a nice fall on P2. It's not as obvious where to go up there but the moves are really fun. You can get a really good blue Mastercam sized piece up in the crack of the open book.

Do P3...it's a fun little jaunt to the top. Scramble up to the very top of the cliff after your 2nd comes up. You can walk south to the rap anchor ato... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : Screaming Matrix (5.7 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Great link-up that never gets too crazy. The traverse left on P3 gets your attention, especially if you have two flowing water streaks to cross. The last pitch was great and is completely do-able even if the area in front of the overhang is sopping wet...just makes this feel a shade harder.

Need two ropes to rap.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Cairngorms : ... : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: The line shows the start we took due to the original large left-facing corner being incredibly wet.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Star Trek Wall : Impulse Power (5.4)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: The description is a bit off for this one. This climb starts near a small left facing corner and follows the crack system up the face. The climb that starts right of the giant hueco is "Beam Me Up, Scotty".


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Star Trek Wall : Beam Me Up Scotty (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: The description for this seems to be confused with Tractor Beam 5.8R. "Beam Me Up, Scotty" was put up in 1986 by Rick Fairtrace and Scott Jones. It's located about midway along the ledge, between Impulse Power and Crack of the Klingons.

Climb the middle crack up the face using some great hand jams to get to a horizontal break and small roof. Pull up around the roof and head straight up. Move left to the anchors atop Crack of the Klingons or right to the anchors atop Impulse Power.

Good c... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : Journey to the Center of th... (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Tri-cams helpful on this route (red and pink). Crux was committing and above your gear. Wouldn't recommend this to the budding trad leader. Fun line though...kept my interest the whole way.


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