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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Streptococcus (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Saves its crux for one good punch at the end. Pumpy, but reasonable for Seneca 5.9.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Finger Stinger (5.8 R)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The pine tree at the top is gone. Climb the corner to the roof, get gear, move out left then up and hit the rappel tree on Roux. Fantastic moves, but the gear is sparse after the initial corner (where you can get good gear). After the roof comes the real runout. That would be a big fall and swing.
Not for the 5.8 Seneca leader. Tony's guide has it at R/X and for good reason.
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Location: MD : Carderock : Zig Zag (5.12a/b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Zig Zag follows the incipient crack system to the right of fingernail. The two large edges further to the right are off route. Once you're up to the ramp you can finish the top section any way you like; the 5.12 climbing is in the lower section.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : High Test (5.9+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with Allison, probably 10a but spot on with other Seneca 9+ routes. Crux is def the finger crack down low. That said, the rest of it isn't the much easier so 'sustained' is the name of the game. Protects fairly well, but it's not a G route, take what the route gives you and don't pass up gear placements, especially once past the first big ledge. There's still a fixed stopper in the right-facing corner/small roof as of 11NOV2012.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Bloody Mary (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the link-up with Morning After which was fantastic. At the GT ledge I ended up walking about 30 ft to climber's right and did the last pitch of Uncle Rudy (5.7+). Well worth your time...wild hand traverse around the corner then a great, tough little roof. From the top of Uncle Rudy there's a rap tree about 20 ft to climber's left along the ledge. This gets you down to another rap tree and from there down to one more.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : a. Beginning of cliff to Ge... : Gelsa (5.4)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We ended up doing an alternate P3 because the original was a slimy mess and my friend's leading limit is about 5.6. I wasn't about to put her on that last pitch. Instead, she led up the blocky corner above the P2 belay then moved out left around the corner and onto the face. She climbed straight up this face and then moved back right near the top to join the original route for the last few moves. Still 5.4, but PG on gear and a little dirty. This alternate is in the Williams guide.
She als... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Desperado (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can protect the traverse moves under the roof with a blue-yellow offset master cam/tcu or similar. Bomber piece in a flaring crack that has a bunch of chalk on it. You can also plug great gear in the overhang, below and right of the horn.
No maintained rap station at the top. Bring slings & rings for the tree or be prepared to downclimb the last bit of Roux to a set of shuts above Really Flakey (going south) OR downclimbing 5.2ish by a huge pine tree and ledgey area (going north). You... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Unrelenting Verticality (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hesitate to call this 5.9 and not give it a "+". It is quite sustained and lives up to its name, with just one decent rest in the middle. Is any one move harder than 5.9? Possibly. But it is Seneca. There is definitely a "don't blow it here" section which just happens to be in the low crux section. The upper crux is just pure fun.
At the base of the crack/start of crux you can place a #3 C4 which is bomber. The back two lobes will be closed down more than the front two, but each ... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Electric Chair (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic Begoon line. Great, sustained hard moves. After you pull out of the slot cave to the left it's harder if you go straight up and slightly right then if you stay more left. The big ledge is a nice rest before the bolts, but it does not let up in the bolted section. Quality route.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Castor (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful line. Wouldn't say it's 5.8 after the 10a section though. Some 8, some 9. Still need to be focused. Take the pitch up to the shuts on the end of Conn's East P1. The 2nd pitch (3rd by the book's standards) is great. Pro is all there. After the small overhang you'll pull up to a good stance and have two options. Crack on the left or a shallow left facing corner/flake on the right. Both lead to a ledge with the cold shuts. Going left, the top move to get to the shuts gets your at... more >>
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Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain : The Dragon Area : Dragon Cracks (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Most direct line is starting below the slightly overhung wall...and you have 3 different options. The leftmost goes at about 5.9, pulling some V2 moves to get to a gear placement (.5 BD cam or so) and then moving up from there.
Option two is just to the right and is pretty much unprotected 5.10 climbing unless you can get in a small cam (purple C3...not sure if the purple master cam would go). After that placement, it's a big reach to some bomber holds.
Option three is the furthest right a... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Bishops Terrace (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful line. Did this on 15SEP2012 and there's a #3 BD Cam fixed at the bulge below the twin cracks.
Also, if you don't wanna take a #4, I used an offset yellow/blue master cam in a pin scar on the face to the right of the OW...right when my #3 woulda been nearly tipped out in the OW. Bomber.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : R & R (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 01SEP2012 there is a Wasp nest at the top of P1 on the main wall just as you pull up onto the ledge. You can avoid it by sticking close to the pine tree as you pull up. I've done the route twice with it there and have managed to place a piece above for a re-direct to the anchors and then moved over to the ledge and the anchors without getting stung.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fern Buttress Area : ... : Two-Tone Arete (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can get to the 4th bolt if you just go straight up the face off the ledge. You need to use holds on the arete but this seemed to be the best way for me and it was all there.
Paul, anchor bolts looked just fine today (29JUL2012). Thanks for putting this one up...great line!
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Back to the Front (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this has two distinct cruxes. 1.)at the first bolt and 2.) the very top section finger crack. The top one sneaks up on you cuz the climbing below has eased off a bit in the last 15+ ft. Wouldn't wanna fall there...that ledge is potentially ankle breaking if you blow it.
I usually descend from that top area by belaying my 2nd down the chimney that faces the top of the Critter Cracks area. I then just down-solo the easy chimney (prob 5.2/3). There's also a large block lodged in ... more >>
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Shit Hook (5.9 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can run this all the way up the face (above the business end) with the cool water grooves and end at the tree with rap slings. From there, you can rap around the corner to the left and find the Stab in the Dark anchors. Two ropes will get you to the ground from the tree with rap slings.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Step and Fetch (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loved this route to finish Golden Earring in one big long pitch. Defintely gives the route a whole new type of variety. Had me smiling the whole way!
William - 4' slings could help there but so could being very thoughtful with your placements. I used long runners (24") throughout most of the line and placed a cam in the horizontal where you hand-traverse out over the roof (I had placed a piece lower at the roof but I back-cleaned it...good choice). Drag was minimal as I climbed S&F. My rope... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Simple J Malarky (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definitely would not put this in the category of Ecstasy, but it does have a nice final pitch and if you happen to have TWO ropes it is a very cool rap off the cold-shut anchors. P1 & P2 probably go at 5.3/5.4 at best.
There are two ways to finish. The original route stops where a short corner blocks the ramp. At your feet there's a crack with an old fixed tri-cam (sling torn off) and (as of 02JUN2012) a fixed #9 Stopper. Directly above this are a series of overhangs. You move up a... more >>
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Southeast Corner : Ladybug (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A note on the grade...I put 5.9 based on input from some of the guides I talked to and my own experience. The first few unprotected moves off the deck are spicy and definitely the crux. It felt like a V2/V2+ boulder problem and then a 5.8ish climb the rest of the way.
Watch for loose rock in the middle section and at the top if you move right when you pull out of the left-facing corner...there is a loose block there and part of it broke off earlier this season.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Near Trapps : b. Gelsa to Moe (closure) : Birdland (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pulling the roof directly on P2 is 5.9. Escaping out right is 5.8. Gear is good either way.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : j. The Yellow Wall (Airy Ar... : Oblique Twique (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can slot a bomber small nut in the crack in the open book, just above the one hold on the crux.
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : The Burn (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome line with a "business end" that comes up and smacks you. I find this climb to have 3 cruxy sections in the upper cracks, each one having a good rest stance at the end if you can find it. The moves are consistently 5.8. Gear is anywhere you wanna place it. Just good climbing fun!
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Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Climbin' Punishment (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading Ross Purnell's comment I realized when this was two years ago. I watched him fall on this from the shuts on Skyline Traverse. Little did I realize the epic weekend I would have nearly 2 years later on this.
T-storm blew in on us just as my 2nd came up. We rapped off from the anchor I had built on the ramp below the crux pitch. Luckily we had a 70m rope and could reach the ground. Left the rope up and top-roped back up to the anchor on Sunday once it had 'sorta' dried. Broug... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Annie Oh! (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. What a great line. Consistent moves and that last section before the small roof does seem a bit runout...just go climbing and climb to more gear!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Arrow (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great line. Did the same thing AntinJ did...back and forth between the two options and finally settling on the left side. I'm 5'6" and this was a somewhat balancy and reachy move for me. Feet were the key...got 'em up as soon as possible. My 6' friend has no trouble reaching the upper crimp without much effort...SOB! :-)
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