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Member Since: Aug 1, 2011
Last Visit: Aug 20, 2015
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Total Points: 1,247
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 942 | Routes 65 | Areas 21 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements 9 | Comments 125 | Posts 2 | Stars 380 | Ratings 314
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Gory Thumb (5.9 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: The boulder problem at the bottom can be protected with a nut or micro cam but you have to take the time to finagle it in. The upper crux can be protected with a #3 or #4 brass offset and the same size RP/IMP (sorry, it was one of those two sizes). I found the crux to be rather a technical sequence, heady and reachy and certainly not a one-move wonder (I'm 5'6")...and there's an ankle-breaking ledge below you. After the crack it's smooth sailing.

Recommend linking to P2 of Raunchy... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Gebhardt-Duffy (5.7+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: The best way to descend this is via a new rap line that was installed as part of some new route development inside Great Chimney.

1.) Locate the anchors atop Craving for Pink/Hidden Gem on the east face of the top pillar and rap down to a two-bolt anchor on a big ledge, just north of the large pine tree (top of Window on the West and Back-scratcher). The lower station is just below the 4th pitch of G-D, but off to climber's left a bit.

2.) Rap down into Great Chimney and find a two bolt-a... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Seems that this is being used from time to time as a descent route for Gebhardt-Dufty. About halfway up (below the steeper chimney) is a twin-forked tree. Straight up above this tree are three new routes that have recently been done. Just below the tree on the wall is a new two-bolt anchor that will get you to the ground with a 60m rope.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Initiation (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Perhaps in 1971 this was a clean climb and decent. I wouldn't recommend the first pitch to my worst enemy. Climb Great Chimney or hike up the east side of the SoPill to the ledge beneath P2 instead. Second pitch looks doable. Walk-off at the top.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Craving fo Pink (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Some loose rock in a few places, though we removed a lot of it. Bolts at the top need to be reworked as the right bolt stud is too short for the hanger and nut.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Pond Bank : White Rocks : 11 - Jim's Wall : R.H. Crack (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: For this line, I stuck to about a 5' wide path centered on the incipient crack on the right side of the wall (right of Thin Crack). No holds on Thin Crack are on. Climb the face directly. There are small crimps and pinches and no gear. A bolt or two somewhere up there would make this leadable but there would still be a good chance of hitting the ledge if you blow the moves. As it is, it's an X route or a TR. In the heat of summer, this was technical, sequency and hard but really nice.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Pond Bank : White Rocks : 11 - Jim's Wall : Thin Crack (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Tricky moves off the ground. The crack takes small finger-size cams just fine...also dropped a nut in there somewhere. After that though it is runout. Be solid at the grade.


Location: PA : South Central PA : Pond Bank : White Rocks : 12 - Angulation Wall : Surf The Boogie (5.10+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Same comment as on Angulation...difficulty would be weather dependent. Friction moves on parts of this climb that seemed hard in the heat and humidity of July would be much easier in the cool of winter, fall or spring.

Take a few cams with one piece at 2".


Location: PA : South Central PA : Pond Bank : White Rocks : 12 - Angulation Wall : Angulation (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 20, 2015

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Comments: Difficulty would be weather dependent. Friction moves on parts of this climb that seemed hard in the heat and humidity of July would be much easier in the cool of fall or spring.

This is a mixed route...take some small cams up to a .75C4


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Minor edit...Tony's Nightmare (Route B) doesn't go all the way to the top. It essentially ends on the big ledge on Skyline Traverse at the end of that climb's 2nd pitch. Tony's Nightmare then joins Skyline to the top.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Nip and Tuck (5.10c)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 10, 2015

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Comments: Agree with Kirby. Great, sustained route. Probably nothing larger than a #1 C4 needed. After the roof you can kinda wander over to the High Test bolts on some licheny, but OK rock. Wasps have been known to sometimes be a nuisance on this in the summer.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Heartburn (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a different start to Cockscomb Pine Tree. A couple wide crack moves, plug a #3 or 4 cam (or large hex) and pull up...move right onto CPT. Good, fun way to start the easier climb.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Terminal Velocity (5.10)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: You'd likely need to do some decent tree-trimming to get on this route now. The branches from a good size pine are in the way as is a small birch tree. This would also probably affect the route to the right, Time Flies (11a...3 bolts and small gear).


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Get off my lawn! ;-)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Thais - Variation Thais Esc... (5.3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: Calling this 5.3 is misleading as one must climb 5.5/5.6 rock in order to reach this pitch. And if I'm not mistaken, the most recent guidebook has this at escape at 5.5.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Expletive Deleted (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 9, 2015

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Comments: If anyone is actually going to climb this, take a very stiff grill brush and be ready to scrape a crap-ton of lichen off the face.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: Jake,

Thanks very much for backing me up as I did indeed type "submitter". My comments were specifically designed to not discourage people from giving pitch one a "go" as it was originally climbed. My usual style is to first climb routes as they were originally done and then go back later to do other variations and link ups...it's more pure that way in my opinion.

Kevin, I don't know you from anyone else, but I encourage you to read comments a little more closely next time.

If you like, e... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : The Shambler (5.8 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: An interesting, if contrived route. The only "new" territory on it was P4's traverse.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Satisfaction 2 (5.9 A1 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: This was also freed back in 1981 by Cal Swoager and Eric Janoscrat. It's called Cavemen and goes at 5.10d.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Fine Young Cannibals (5.12d PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 30, 2015

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Comments: This was climbed free by John Bercaw and Rod Hansen in 1988 and is known as Fine Young Cannibals (5.12d/13a)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Gebhardt-Duffy (5.7+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: Started on the right side for a harder, 5.8 variation (might actually be Rhododendron Corner). The rest was pretty consistent Seneca 5.7/7+.

We rapped down the west face off the block at the end of the 2nd pitch, which as of 19APR has a strand of webbing and two cords with 3 rap rings. From this rap you'll reach another set of slings with one ring that are decent. Alternatively, move to climbers right from the second rap station along the ledge and locate the two-bolt anchor atop Right Top... more >>


Location: VA : Roanoke/New River/Blacksbur... : Crescent Rocks
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 5, 2015

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Comments: There's a new development going in on the Jefferson County, WV side of Raven Rocks Rd. There are a lot of restrictive signs up and whatnot and plenty of No Parking signs. If you're going to approach from Raven Rocks Rd, park on the shoulder on the Virginia side (where there aren't any No Parking signs...there aren't any on the VA side) and walk down to the access trail beyond the old cell tower trail. There's an old gated access with a No Parking sign on it that can be used for access. This ... more >>


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Old Rag : Lower Ridge Trail Slabs : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Mar 16, 2015

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Comments: The route on the right of the Upper Head Wall in the middle that's a 5.9 on here is committing (there are two 9s listed; i'm referring to the right route). I wouldn't want to fall anywhere in that section below the 3rd bolt and certainly not on the runout section above the bolt (though the angle eases there). I'd call it a 10.

Also, the two "small pine" trees that Mike has labeled on here are rap stations. You need a 60m rope for the first one.


Location: MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr. : Serious Callers Only (5.10)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: Similar to its neighbor (Tried for Treason), the pump builds on this one through increasing pulls on nice horizontals...like climbing a fatty campus board that leans back slightly. No one move is really hard than 10a, but they're all stacked on top of each other so by the time you clip the anchors you're fairly pumped. However, you can get some nice lock-off hand jams towards the end, giving you a break. Save a #2 or #3 for the end before the anchors.


Location: MD : Harper's Ferry : Balcony Jr. : Tried for Treason (5.11-)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 17, 2014

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Comments: The gear is better than you think...save a .5 for the crux. I didn't find it to be a deadpoint move if you have good footwork. It is a really fun, somewhat reachy sequence though. No one move sequence seemed harder than solid 5.10 (which for me is 10c/d...I'm 5'6") but there's a lot of em and the pump builds on this one as you near the top...save a #2 or #3 for the top before the anchors.


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