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Member Since: Aug 1, 2011
Last Visit: Jul 14, 2014
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Point Rank: # 745
Total Points: 845
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 730 | Routes 45 | Areas 13 | Photos 22 | Page Improvments | Comments 90 | Posts | Stars 303 | Ratings 257
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jul 10, 2014

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Comments: Lovely route...quality and sustained. Traverses a good bit, so DMM Revolver biners are nice to have in those critical turn spots...if you have 'em, use 'em. Found the standard last pitch to be 10a...compares well with other old school areas back east like Seneca and the Gunks...a shade harder than the crux on Bring On The Nubiles at Seneca (9+).

The RR traverse was fun and airy. There was a long sling on one of the bolts, so I used that and then managed to put a slip-knot on a flake/chicke... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Ridicullissima (5.10c PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: P1 as described in grey Williams is PG13/R. You get a solid #1 C4 about 3/4 up and then have a significant run up to your next piece over 5.8 ground. Other than that, the rest of the route protects beautifully. I built a bomber anchor on the ledge with 3 tricams (brown, red and pink) in the horizontal crack at the back. I left my #3 C4 on the ground and didn't regret it; could've placed it but not necessary.

The 2nd crux moves are beautiful, pumpy and steep. I took a n... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Feast of Fools (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 23, 2014

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Comments: That pin on the P1 crux is pretty rusted and manky-looking. The moves are straightforward and I thought it best to just go for it with a #3 C4 below me.

I took a nice fall on P2. It's not as obvious where to go up there but the moves are really fun. You can get a really good blue Mastercam sized piece up in the crack of the open book.

Do P3...it's a fun little jaunt to the top. Scramble up to the very top of the cliff after your 2nd comes up. You can walk south to the rap anchor ato... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock : Screaming Matrix (5.7 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 16, 2014

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Comments: Great link-up that never gets too crazy. The traverse left on P3 gets your attention, especially if you have two flowing water streaks to cross. The last pitch was great and is completely do-able even if the area in front of the overhang is sopping wet...just makes this feel a shade harder.

Need two ropes to rap.


Location: International : Europe : United Kingdom : Scotland : Cairngorms : ... : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Jun 5, 2014

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Comments: The line shows the start we took due to the original large left-facing corner being incredibly wet.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Star Trek Wall : Impulse Power (5.4)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: The description is a bit off for this one. This climb starts near a small left facing corner and follows the crack system up the face. The climb that starts right of the giant hueco is "Beam Me Up, Scotty".


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Fern Buttress : Star Trek Wall : Beam Me Up Scotty (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: The description for this seems to be confused with Tractor Beam 5.8R. "Beam Me Up, Scotty" was put up in 1986 by Rick Fairtrace and Scott Jones. It's located about midway along the ledge, between Impulse Power and Crack of the Klingons.

Climb the middle crack up the face using some great hand jams to get to a horizontal break and small roof. Pull up around the roof and head straight up. Move left to the anchors atop Crack of the Klingons or right to the anchors atop Impulse Power.

Good c... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : Journey to the Center of th... (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: Tri-cams helpful on this route (red and pink). Crux was committing and above your gear. Wouldn't recommend this to the budding trad leader. Fun line though...kept my interest the whole way.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Tony's new book will have it listed at probably 5.5. The previous guidebook authors probably never climbed the route, so honoring their judgement is your call. Tony Barnes certainly did not climb this route (and a lot of the other obscure routes at Seneca) prior to publication of his guidebooks. So Tony took from the previous guidebooks going back to the original FA in 1965. He also relies on feedback from climbers (he solicited input for the guidebook when he started writing it like 2+ year... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Marshall's Madness - Crack ... (5.10a)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route that I finally got around to doing on a beautiful quiet Friday. It's a long route and drag will be noticeable towards the top. I used a DMM revolver biner on a draw below the roof which really helped. Also, a #4 C4 is very handy towards the top.

If you're toping out on this route from the anchors, be extremely careful of a couple large loose blocks right as you step up to the summit ledge.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : Conn's East Lieback Variati... (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Great line and I'm glad Kristan added this entry. Really good way to get to Soler if you don't want to do the wide flake on P1. Good hand jams and liebacking on this pitch. A #4 is helpful about midway up.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Keds (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Good pro and solid moves, but much more sustained than expected. Sandbagged at 5.7, definitely as hard as Lichen or Leave It. Take finger size cams and nuts...maybe one hand size (#2 or 3 Camalot). Top out by going straight up to a small pine. The majority of the route is on nice, clean rock but the top is a little licheny and the small pine is in your face.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pebble Beach : Environmental Impact (5.7)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 3, 2014

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Comments: You can do the whole thing in one pitch if you're sure your second won't blow the easy traverse up into the upper v-slot/roof. Set a long runner on the first anchors and traverse right to underneath the slot roof. Sink a #3 cam in a horizontal (not in the roof!) and then maneuver yourself up into the slot. Some chimney moves get you fully up in there. There's a bomber nut placement up there on the right and then you can move up and get a marginal jam so you can clip the anchors. The t... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pistol Ridge : The X Files (5.6)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: This kinda has two cruxes. Getting off the ground is an interesting boulder problem that will protect with a small cam. The high crux is pulling the small roof to work up into the relatively easy off-width. Take a #4 and 5.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Moonshiner's Wall : Oberon (5.10b)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: Ok, here's a real description for getting to this climb. From the approach trail that takes you to the base area of Moonshiners Wall, walk to the left around the crag. Continue following the path around as best as possible. Eventually you'll come to a VERY large hemlock (yes, technically a pine tree)…like 4' in diameter. Oberon is the obvious corner you'll see here. It's about a 5-10 min walk from when you initially get to the crag.

Be careful with the start…take a #4 or #5 if... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: I really don't like to trust pins from only a little bit of outward appearances. You have no clue how deep it's set or the condition beyond what you can see. I equalized the pin here with a #3 Stopper just below it. Sounds like a brassie would've worked too. After this pro there's nothing till the roof...which is a decent little ways up there. A fun route that is challenging both physically and from a rigging standpoint for the second. Doubles would def help. If you're unsure of you... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Agree with Chris regarding Lakatakissima. Great, pumpy and sustained 5.8 pitch. P1 was a nice wake-up in the AM. The P2 crux is just a reach. I'm 5'6" and ended up just needing to get my body position right so I could reach and walk my fingers up with my left hand. P3 was just pure fun. All around great route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : e. The Mac Wall (Something ... : Higher Stannard (5.9-)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: Fun, steep face climb that wanders a bit and with PG/PG13 Pro (not R, but not G either) but excellent moves. Only real difficult pro spot was maybe 20+ ft up, above gear and at a small pin scar...I got a #00 C3 (it was decent). Perhaps I could've gotten a Peenut to go; unfortunately I left them on the ground...doh!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Pas de Deux (5.8)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Nov 1, 2013

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Comments: I wonder how long the pin at the crux has been gone. There definitely isn't much protection up through there but the moves flow nicely...just keep climbing till you find another placement. :-)


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South End : Skyline Traverse (5.3)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: The climb actually starts on the SE Corner but does traverse over onto the South End. To find the start, take the SE Corner Trail (first left off the road past the culvert) up the hill (pass the South End turn early on) and follow it around to the left. As you near the rock face the trail switches-back right and goes up and around back left up some new steps. Follow the trail towards the wall and start near the dead tree (that will likely fall soon). Most parties boulder up to the large Skyl... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I have to disagree with the other commenters on this climb on a couple points. First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh.

P1: Start directly up from the two-bolt anchor shared with West Pole. Move up the corner/arete, passing some good stances and decent gear placements. Move back right onto the face, passing an obvious loose block (X marked on it) to some right-leaning, shallow cracks (offset cams!). Move up and gain bett... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : Southern Pillar : Great Chimney (5.5 PG13)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: This is not 5.1. This is adventure climbing at it's finest. You will find yourself stemming a lot and using some decent chimney moves on this climb. I'd almost give it an "R" rating...there are certainly some 'do not fall' areas where it would be a long, tumbling ride. Pete's right, it's not a climb for beginners.

[previous comments edited as Pete incorporated them in his description]

The descent can be a little tricky too. At the top of the chimney there is a large ledge on climber's righ... more >>


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: The old PATC-MS website has been moved. The guide is now available here: www.potomacmountainclub.org/little_stony_man


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain : Bent Tree Area : ... : Photo
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Head First is now called Kopley's Corner.


Location: VA : Shenandoah National Park : Central District : Little Stoney Man Mountain : Bent Tree Area : The Shield Direct (5.9+)
By: Andy Weinmann When: Sep 30, 2013

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Comments: Quality route, one of the best here. Surprisingly, the roof is spot on at Seneca 9+, hard but do-able. Fun moves up the corner then a hard sequence and above your gear at the roof. Just keep moving and don't get pumped out!


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