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Rock Climbing Photo: The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 232
Total Points: 2,654
Last Year: 151
Last 30 Days: 15
106 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1174 | Routes 103 | Areas 20 | Photos 154 | Page Improvements | Comments 554 | Posts 6 | Stars 266 | Ratings 71
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Extremely rad photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Whiskey and Success (V12+)
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2016

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Comments: Pablo Hammack repeated the stand-start to this problem recently, and he confirms the V11 rating. You can watch him wrestle this problem (and other gnar stuff) on YouTube. Use your computer-machine accordingly.

Historical/Technical note:

When Thomas did the FA of the stand-start to Whiskey, he finished on the holds of General Steampunk, which exit to the left of the top General Electric. Basically, General Steampunk is a somewhat harder finish variation to General Electric. GE gets a solid V5... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Way of the Samurai (V9-10)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2016

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Comments: Finally, some historical info on this great problem! When I finished this traverse, I thought I was the first-ascentionist. I was wrong—Jondo beat me to it. Figures. Dude cranked(s). Thanks for the vid, Garratt Wilkin (see Noir Boulder intro page: mountainproject.com/v/the-noir.... Jondo rated it V10. I'm amenable to that rating, as well as the V9+ rating. It's friggin hard either way.

I named the problem Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. The Kevin Costner Challenge), but... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: Yup, that is the Slab Route. Mustafa climbs well to the right.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Rodeo Queen (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2016

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Comments: I totally agree with Randy. A good number of the routes in the Corridor tout moves MUCH harder than the grade would suggest—relative to other climbs of the same grade in the Alabama Hills.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Dinky Pinkies (5.10d PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 30, 2016

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Comments: Nice work, Alex. I tried to start the route years ago, but there was so much PO I couldn't justify the rope contamination. Is it manageable now?


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock : The Michael Banks Proposal ... (5.3 X)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: I can't express how happy this all makes me.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Bacon Pancakes (V2-3)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2016

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Comments: Remarkably worthwhile, Tim. I enjoyed this problem quite a bit.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pardon My French (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 9, 2015

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Comments: Super fun dynamic line. Highly recommend it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : Vivendo (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 16, 2015

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Comments: Dean (aka Deano El Privetto) does this problem in a unique and very fun way: start the problem via the sit-start, climb to the big ramp, muster some momentum, and do a sideways leap to the massive jug out left. Super fun to watch.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : No Skill (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 28, 2015

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Comments: Heh heh. True, Micah.

The end of Chips always just felt weird to me. Didn't Phil mess up his hamstring on it years ago?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : No Skill (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 26, 2015

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Comments: I always like this route. Fantastic beginning. Only downside is the finish.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Pockets of Resistance (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Man, you WV folks don't know how good you have it (or maybe you DO). This rock blew my mind. Excellent, excellent climb.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Premarital Bliss (5.10a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: I climbed this the day after I got engaged. I heard a story from some locals that one of the first ascentionists got married after establishing this line, and never climbed again.

Is it true? Anyone?

Well, I still climb...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Salmon Creek
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2015

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Comments: Completely worthwhile area. Fantastic hang, fantastic swimming, and possibility for some fantastic problems. Definitely draws a bevy of people, so don't expect tranquility. I wouldn't call it a destination solely for climbing, but it's good fun to pack a picnic, beat the heat in the swimming holes, and climb the odd problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : No Pigs For Rent (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the second ascent, Tim!

Yeah, now that I have some distance, I'm feeling the V8 grade. It was a hard nut to crack, but it really only took a session or two to sort everything out (including cleaning). I did Bandito a few weeks ago, which I consider benchmark V9 for SB, and this line doesn't feel as hard.

Tim, your beta sounds solid. I tried that method, but it didn't quite suit me. Either way, aren't those bottom moves insane! Ah, so good. Go back, please. There are some great line... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Deep Search (V6)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 8, 2015

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Comments: Top it out once so you don't have to do it ever again.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Serenity Crack (5.10d PG13) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Oct 7, 2015

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Comments: Ha! The positioning of the camera makes this look like a steep pitch on El Cap.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Bandito (V9)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 30, 2015

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Comments: Goshdarnit. Unbelievable problem. I tried it sporadically over the last couple of years, but I finally dedicated a couple of sessions this season, and finished it off. Good, brutal fight. I actually set up a "bump-machine" on my home wall to train for the consecutive lefthand bumps. It worked. Totally nerdy.

If you're stranded on a desert island, and you only have this problem to do for the rest of eternity, then you're in luck. Good job Tim and Logan!


Location: NM : Gallup Area : Mentmore : New Side : The Monolith : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 23, 2015

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Comments: This photo wins the internet for me today. Absolutely awesome.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Munson Boulders : Smugglers Run (V3-4)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, Jon makes a strong point. That said, way to be psyched. I'd hate for FA-fever diminish any enthusiasm for reinvigorating old problems. The usual suspects of Ojai climbing have tapped many of the obvious areas, but that doesn't mean they aren't worth revisiting.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Munson Boulders
By: andy patterson When: Sep 9, 2015

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Comments: Way to go, guys. I've always wondered about those little blocs. I think I recall Darren Odgers rummaging around there a few years ago, but I can't be sure. You could ask him. If anyone did climb there in the past, it was probably him.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Camelbak Crack (5.8+ R) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: Sep 8, 2015

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Comments: These little crags scattered above Ren Man definitely have some interesting and—from time to time—good rock. The main problem is the massive amounts of detritus that shower down on those below you when you scramble around.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : No Pigs For Rent (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Grading new problems is always hard. Especially when they are totally new, and you have to clean all the holds, work out the moves, and just plain figure out how the line goes. I'd love some more folks to try this problem, because it's really, really good. Probably about V4/5 from the stand.

The super low start is at least as hard as Dancing Outlaw and She Made Me Do It (both of which have some stretched out, core-intensive moves), and perhaps even a grade harder. Also, the rock was still clea... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: andy patterson When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Jeff,

I am entirely remiss in not retrieving those lines. I made the HUGE tactical error of starting some projects up there right before Oliver was born, and I had to leave some unfinished projects. I do get up Rattlesnake nowadays, but my timeframes up there are few and far between, and of a shorter duration. I'm hoping to get all the nasty "project hardware" outta there soon.

Thanks for the patience!


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