Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: The Nose, Santa Barbara


Member Since: Apr 7, 2007
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact andy patterson

Point Rank: # 234
Total Points: 2,673
Last Year: 53
Last 30 Days: 13
108 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andy patterson been climbing?










Contributions


All 1185 | Routes 103 | Areas 20 | Photos 156 | Page Improvements | Comments 563 | Posts 6 | Stars 266 | Ratings 71
Page 1 of 23.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : Terrible Angel (5.14+) : Photo
By: andy patterson When: 2 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: This photo is so completely awesome.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Keys to the Kingdom (V7-8)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Saw the vid of this one. Very cool. Psyched to have another gem in this zone.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard : ... : Finn Goes To Kindergarten (V7)
By: andy patterson When: Sep 6, 2016

view comment >>
Comments:
Rock Climbing Photo: Old shot of Bernd starting Finn Goes To Kindergart...
Old shot of Bernd starting Finn Goes To Kindergarten.


Rock Climbing Photo: Another old shot... I get in to the biz of the pro...
Another old shot... I get in to the biz of the problem. Tricky, high, and thoughtful crux.



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Verisimilitude (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Duke. You're on fire.

Good moves, eh? When the conditions are right, it just works perfectly. When I sent, it felt in control and straightforward—so much so that I was worried we were way off on the grade. But I went back later that week during the heat of the day and couldn't pull off the ground.

So good. Unbelievable line, in my opinion.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Not Without Hope (V11)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 25, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice. That was scholarly argued, Pablo. What did you think of So I Did It? That press move out left? Awesome.

I agree about the ratings for Way of the Samurai and So I Did It. I should also note that even though Bernd thought ACL was very soft if it was a 10, I happened to think it WAS super hard. Different styles abound.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Ghost Town (a.k.a. winderme...
By: andy patterson When: Aug 23, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: This is interesting. During my interactions with the manager of the adjacent ranch, I sensed that he felt in charge of the area, if not the actual legal guardian. Basically, he simply asked that I keep a pleasantly low profile and don't cause a ruckus. My guess is that he always assumed all that land was his to manage. The map seems to dictate otherwise.

However, I would still proceed with caution, since it would suck for an argument to break out, no matter how in the right... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Not Without Hope (V11)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 22, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nicely done, Pablo. Bernd and I fell a bunch on that last move. In fact, Bernd sustained a shoulder-wrenching injury falling off the move to the sloper, and he almost had to get surgery! Bernd thought ACL was closer to V8 or V9, and you do get a rest on the traverse before ACL, so his (and my) best guess was V10. But we never sent, so we can't talk. For sure one of the harder traverses around.

Have you done the other hard traverse on this boulder? Or did you do all the Skof... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Potter's Point : ... : The Brute Sit Start (V10)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Never cut your hair, Duke.

Great send!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Lizard's Mouth : ... : The Kiss Off (V0)
By: andy patterson When: Aug 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Brian Spiering did some problems and named them (I think) back in the day. I don't remember what they were called, or their quality.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Brickyard
By: andy patterson When: Aug 9, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Dude. I'm psyched on more photos. Always helps.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 29, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Extremely rad photo.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Creamery : Whiskey and Success (V12+)
By: andy patterson When: May 26, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Pablo Hammack repeated the stand-start to this problem recently, and he confirms the V11 rating. You can watch him wrestle this problem (and other gnar stuff) on YouTube. Use your computer-machine accordingly.

Historical/Technical note:

When Thomas did the FA of the stand-start to Whiskey, he finished on the holds of General Steampunk, which exit to the left of the top General Electric. Basically, General Steampunk is a somewhat harder finish variation to General Electric. GE gets a solid V5... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : The Noir Boulder : Way of the Samurai (V9-10)
By: andy patterson When: May 12, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Finally, some historical info on this great problem! When I finished this traverse, I thought I was the first-ascentionist. I was wrong—Jondo beat me to it. Figures. Dude cranked(s). Thanks for the vid, Garratt Wilkin (see Noir Boulder intro page: mountainproject.com/v/the-noir.... Jondo rated it V10. I'm amenable to that rating, as well as the V9+ rating. It's friggin hard either way.

I named the problem Dances With Wolves (a.k.a. The Kevin Costner Challenge), but... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Photo
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Yup, that is the Slab Route. Mustafa climbs well to the right.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Cattle Pocket and Corridors... : ... : Rodeo Queen (5.10d)
By: andy patterson When: May 11, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I totally agree with Randy. A good number of the routes in the Corridor tout moves MUCH harder than the grade would suggest—relative to other climbs of the same grade in the Alabama Hills.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro (Upper) : Dinky Pinkies (5.10d PG13)
By: andy patterson When: Apr 30, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work, Alex. I tried to start the route years ago, but there was so much PO I couldn't justify the rope contamination. Is it manageable now?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Skofield Park : ... : Bacon Pancakes (V2-3)
By: andy patterson When: Jan 10, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: Remarkably worthwhile, Tim. I enjoyed this problem quite a bit.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Hwy 33/Ojai Bouldering : Pine Mountain : ... : Pardon My French (V5)
By: andy patterson When: Dec 9, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Super fun dynamic line. Highly recommend it.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : Vivendo (V3)
By: andy patterson When: Nov 16, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Dean (aka Deano El Privetto) does this problem in a unique and very fun way: start the problem via the sit-start, climb to the big ramp, muster some momentum, and do a sideways leap to the massive jug out left. Super fun to watch.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : No Skill (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 28, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Heh heh. True, Micah.

The end of Chips always just felt weird to me. Didn't Phil mess up his hamstring on it years ago?


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 166/Silly Rock : Owl Tor : No Skill (5.12c)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 26, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I always like this route. Fantastic beginning. Only downside is the finish.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Rico Suave Buttress : Pockets of Resistance (5.12a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Man, you WV folks don't know how good you have it (or maybe you DO). This rock blew my mind. Excellent, excellent climb.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : Premarital Bliss (5.10a)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 22, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed this the day after I got engaged. I heard a story from some locals that one of the first ascentionists got married after establishing this line, and never climbed again.

Is it true? Anyone?

Well, I still climb...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Big Sur : Salmon Creek
By: andy patterson When: Oct 15, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Completely worthwhile area. Fantastic hang, fantastic swimming, and possibility for some fantastic problems. Definitely draws a bevy of people, so don't expect tranquility. I wouldn't call it a destination solely for climbing, but it's good fun to pack a picnic, beat the heat in the swimming holes, and climb the odd problem.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : * Santa Barbara Bouldering : Hat Creek Cattle Company : No Pigs For Rent (V8+)
By: andy patterson When: Oct 13, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the second ascent, Tim!

Yeah, now that I have some distance, I'm feeling the V8 grade. It was a hard nut to crack, but it really only took a session or two to sort everything out (including cleaning). I did Bandito a few weeks ago, which I consider benchmark V9 for SB, and this line doesn't feel as hard.

Tim, your beta sounds solid. I tried that method, but it didn't quite suit me. Either way, aren't those bottom moves insane! Ah, so good. Go back, please. There are some great line... more >>


Page 1 of 23.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!