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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Quasar (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went straight up from the ground and I was pleased to have a purple C3, green alien, and blue mastercam. Sustained climbing above. Largest piece I place was green camalot. Personally, I think this is harder climbing than Cruel Sister.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 - Easy chimney/face to a solid roof pull
P2 - Solid jams through a stem to a long, easy chimney (with good gear) to a pair of offwidth sections. I was able to slide a #5 up the first offwidth section without much worry. I placed the BB#3 at the base of the final offwidth section, and it seemed solid enough. That being said, there was a decent orange master cam in a small crack below it and one or two moves above it there was an awesome small offset nut.
P3 - Face move is easy. ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can still drive up the dirt road to the trail, you just want a high clearance vehicle - 4WD can't hurt (we had a rented standard jeep SUV). Alternately use the new trail head on Dry Creek road and walk in about a mile. The climber's trail behind about 0.2 miles down the road from the Devil's Bridge Trailhead. It is a VERY well cairned trail that skirts the approach cliffs to the left and then cuts right to the climb.
Rack: medium to big nuts, single set of small cams, doubles #0.75-... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Seemed like solid "desert 5.9" to me. The mini-roof on P1 was the crux for me. I had a double rack to #3 camalot including nuts and seemed to use most things somewhere. I brought a #4, and although I placed it - I probably could have done without it.
Rap was easy with one rope. We had a 70m. With a 60m, watch the ends on the first rap.
Very well protected climbing.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Snuffy Smith (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty contrived, but an acceptable warmup.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Tuff It Out (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was pretty fun. Balancey and different than your typical Smith crimpfest. Rock has cleaned up nicely and seems solid.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Ben Dover Face : The Pincher (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One move wonder, but worth doing once.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Ben Dover Face : Ben Dover (5.10b/c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short route, but packs a punch and well worth doing. Unlike it's neighbor, this isn't a one move wonder....
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Belayed at the big sloping ledge and did a 200' pitch to an uncomfortable belay about 40' from the top. If traffic allows, do yourself a favor and belay where the route hits Dappled Mare. Once above that, it is a quite a ways until there is good enough gear an anchor. Definitely a fun pitch though, soft for a JT 10a.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Blackjack (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route, and very well-bolted.
A #1 or #2 camalot before the first bolt, and I placed a green C3 and a medium nut at the top.
Crux is definitely delicate, the rest is super positive edging up the steep wall.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley Vicinity : Houser Buttress Area : ... : California Girls (aka Muffi... (5.11b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: TR'd it after Loose Lady. I only noticed a few loose holds, so it must be cleaning up. That being said, it definitely felt 5.11- to me so perhaps some holds have vanished.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : Working Overtime (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth doing if in the neighborhood...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : A Woman's Work is Never Don... (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Short, but quality. I thought 10c was fair for the crux, especially since it was all of 2-3 moves. Excellent gear - my last piece was a blue mastercam.
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Location: CO : Call for Donations to help ...
By: Andy Laakmann When: Dec 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: MP just chipped in.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directissima (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I loved this route. Just a perfect line with perfect stone.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Moonlight (5.6)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Damn fun second pitch!
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, what a great two pitches. The direct finish is simply superb. Bomber gear all the way, so don't hesitate to give it a go!
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Location: WY : Jackson Hole : Rock Springs Buttress
By: Andy Laakmann When: Sep 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Be aware that many of the new routes aren't listed in the topo above.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Papoose One (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A worthy, and engaging adventure across and up the Papoose! You definitely want a follower who is comfortable following traverses though, as there are many.
P1 10b (Centerfold) - Fun, and thoughtful move at the bolt. Gear anchor.
P2 5.8 - Easy traverse to a burly 5.8 crack. And then a delicate traverse to a bolted anchor.
p3 5.10a - Kind of weird getting to the bolt, and a touch dirty. The chimney move is straightforward, but don't fall as the ledge is in play. The upper crack was DIRTY unf... more >>
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Daydream Believer (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, and will keep you think the whole way. Anchors are in need of replacement... getting rusty.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Orifice Fish (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this thing is four stars! Can't believe I hadn't been on it before. I was able to get a #1 an #0.75 camalot up top in addition to a nut... but yes, #0.5 camalots would work too.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : First Class (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun. Crux is definitely the start.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Monkey Song (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the first bolt, I placed a #1 camalot in a horizontal and a green alien in a vertical crack to the left. I had to clean out the crack on the left with my nut key to get the cam in. Then a small/medium nut in the crack midway.
Great route, but be solid at the grade as you do some crux moves well above your gear.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Funarama (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route... easy until the sting in the tail end. You'll want a small nut or a purple C3 for the finishing moves.
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Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Bulletheads East (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Repeated the route, and wow... is it good. Great long pitches separated by comfy ledges. On top of P2 plan to build a gear anchor if you are going for the right 10c option... for the left stembox you can use the tree.
I was pleased to have some extra #0.5 camalot/red alien sizes. On the P2 10c.. after pulling the roof the gear is sparse for a few moves, but I was then able to get a solid red alien at the base of the upper finger crack.
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