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Racked and loaded... name that splitter behind me? Hint, its on Supercrack Buttress


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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Where has Andy Laakmann been climbing?










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All 2944 | Routes 77 | Areas 31 | Photos 142 | Page Improvments | Comments 460 | Posts 1278 | Stars 565 | Ratings 391
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Truly a gem of the route. Every pitch is good.

Did the original start first, and then the finger crack start after walking down. A 70m just allows you to lower/TR after leading the finger crack. A gray X4 was perfect at the cruxy transition into the thin crack.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Polymastia (5.10d)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Really fun! Very well protected. A bit gritty on the slab, but plenty of bolts. Quite the mixed route - crack, jugs, and slab.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Five and Dime Cliff : Keystone Corner (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: No anchor up top.... easy walk off, just be aware.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Lunatic Fringe (5.10c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 28, 2014

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Comments: Wow, what a pitch. The opening section of tight hands definitely delivers the pump. I placed a red C3 (up top), 2x yellow aliens (up top too), a couple medium to big nuts (the one at the bottom mentioned in the Super Topo is bomber), and otherwise pretty much #0.5 to #3.5 camalot fest. It'll take as many of all those as you want to throw at it - the meat being green camalots to #2 camalots. Definitely a spot or two for #3s as well. I had to work to get the #3.5... more >>


Location: Nick Wilder : Nick's Album : Photo
By: Andy Laakmann When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Xanadu?


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Right Side : El Camino Real (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: From Jungle Ledge a 60 or 70m will reach near the bottom, but both require some easy 3rd/4th class scrambling.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Open Book (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: P1 - I used a pink tricam off the bottom, and slung the flake out right as a directional for my second. Definitely cruxy getting to the ear, but pulling over the ear is easy and has bomber gear.

P2 - Lieback, jam, it's all good. I went around the roof and belayed at the small ledge. #1 and #2 camalots for gear on the left, or finger size gear on the right.

P3 - Fun. The slab move is straightforward if you are used to Tahquitz/Suicide slab. A little chimney action is useful to e... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Winter Solstice (5.11c PG13)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Wickedly sustained.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Captain Hook (5.7)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: We just did the first pitch and then traverse over to the rap anchors.

The start seemed all of 5.9 to me, with fiddly gear to boot. I had to streeeetch to get a spot for a small offset nut from the opening feet. And the spot required some cleaning with the nut tool just for bonus thrill.

The climb protected well past that up until the roof, though stock up on small to midsize nuts as they seemed to be the ticket.

I found the exit move pretty damn thrilling with the gear way down below yo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : The Hernia (5.8)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Oct 4, 2013

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Comments: Fun. The giant, hollow sounding flake before the roof sure is creepy though.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Split Beaver (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: Super fun battle. My rack: green c3 for the boulder move, #1, #0.75, 2x#2, #3, #3.5, 2x#4, 1x#5. Sews it up.. though I did slide the #5 up for the last move.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Vector (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 13, 2013

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Comments: The Vector crack is really fun! A full 55m of quality wide hand crack, with about a 10 foot section of enjoyable, low-angle offwidth. I had 2 x #2s, 3 x #3s, 1 x #3.5, 2 x #4, and 1 x #5 and was perfectly comfy. But even with that rack I was back cleaning a fair bit. That being said, I went all the way to the belay with one bolt and did not stop of the ledge about 2/3 of the way up. If you did that, you might be able to get by with less gear (but save some han... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Centerfold (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: A 70m just makes the first rap, but tie knots. Then you can rap straight down to the anchors above the 11c. And then a final rap down.


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Wiretap (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: Climbed it again by starting up Thriller on the Piller and finishing on Wire Crack. Thriller is an awesome pitch and provdes a "harder" start. Wire Crack was pretty short all things considered....


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Thriller on the Pillar (5.10b)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: A very engaging pitch. Lots of moves to keep you thinking. It was a bit dirty, but the dirt just added to the thrill. Once you pull over the first bulge, the rest of the gear is #1 camalot or smaller, thus don't worry about using all your larger pieces in the initial hand crack. Gear is excellent, and always right where you need it. I was glad to have two #0.5 (purple) camalots at the top before the bolt. They fit perfectly through the finishing moves of the crux! A better st... more >>


Location: International : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Squamish : ... : Laid Back (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Aug 4, 2013

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Comments: Good fun. Follow the trail down and climbers right from Centrefold (i.e. not the trail to Mushroom).


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Catwalk Cliff : Quasar (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Went straight up from the ground and I was pleased to have a purple C3, green alien, and blue mastercam. Sustained climbing above. Largest piece I place was green camalot. Personally, I think this is harder climbing than Cruel Sister.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 26, 2013

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Comments: P1 - Easy chimney/face to a solid roof pull
P2 - Solid jams through a stem to a long, easy chimney (with good gear) to a pair of offwidth sections. I was able to slide a #5 up the first offwidth section without much worry. I placed the BB#3 at the base of the final offwidth section, and it seemed solid enough. That being said, there was a decent orange master cam in a small crack below it and one or two moves above it there was an awesome small offset nut.
P3 - Face move is easy. ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: You can still drive up the dirt road to the trail, you just want a high clearance vehicle - 4WD can't hurt (we had a rented standard jeep SUV). Alternately use the new trail head on Dry Creek road and walk in about a mile. The climber's trail behind about 0.2 miles down the road from the Devil's Bridge Trailhead. It is a VERY well cairned trail that skirts the approach cliffs to the left and then cuts right to the climb.

Rack: medium to big nuts, single set of small cams, doubles #0.75-... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Apr 23, 2013

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Comments: Seemed like solid "desert 5.9" to me. The mini-roof on P1 was the crux for me. I had a double rack to #3 camalot including nuts and seemed to use most things somewhere. I brought a #4, and although I placed it - I probably could have done without it.

Rap was easy with one rope. We had a 70m. With a 60m, watch the ends on the first rap.

Very well protected climbing.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Snuffy Smith (5.9)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: Pretty contrived, but an acceptable warmup.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Four Horsemen : Tuff It Out (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Mar 12, 2013

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Comments: I thought this was pretty fun. Balancey and different than your typical Smith crimpfest. Rock has cleaned up nicely and seems solid.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Ben Dover Face : The Pincher (5.9+)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 2, 2013

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Comments: One move wonder, but worth doing once.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Cove : Ben Dover Face : Ben Dover (5.10b/c)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 2, 2013

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Comments: Short route, but packs a punch and well worth doing. Unlike it's neighbor, this isn't a one move wonder....


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Right Sid... : Bird on a Wire (5.10a)
By: Andy Laakmann When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Belayed at the big sloping ledge and did a 200' pitch to an uncomfortable belay about 40' from the top. If traffic allows, do yourself a favor and belay where the route hits Dappled Mare. Once above that, it is a quite a ways until there is good enough gear an anchor. Definitely a fun pitch though, soft for a JT 10a.


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