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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 29, 2007
Contact Andy Johnson


Point Rank: # 3,490
Total Points: 131
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Andy Johnson been climbing?










Contributions


All 76 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 46 | Posts | Stars 19 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks
By: Andy Johnson When: Aug 21, 2005

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Comments: I don't know the specifics, but there were some private property issues at campjack. I think one side was private or something. It would be wise to look into this before heading to the area.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 12, 2005

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Comments: Eric, what you have discovered is an interesting and highly misunderstood part of Vedauwoo climbs. Most people think that the shit that is found in large quantities at times is guano. Guano is bat feces. The feces that Vedauwoo is oh so famous for is typically middens or pack rat shit. The reason for it being so solid is that pack rats will nest in the same spots for thousands of years. In essence, the old poo becomes fossilized. As you observed, the majority of a pack rat's diet consists ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Gravity's Rainbow (5.11c R)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 13, 2005

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Comments: Don't forget the classic Gravity's Rainbow ice route in Ouray.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental X (V5)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 19, 2004

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Comments: So, I showed this to a guy whom you all probably know very well for his climbing and bouldering influence, but I will not reveal his name because I don't know if he would want me to. Anyway, he said that people have been climbing that problem for years, and it even has a name which I cannot remember. So sorry, Jeb, but just because there is not chalk on it does not make it a new problem.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 13, 2004

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Comments: Ok, folks, I just can't help myself with this one. The above discussion clearly shows that climbers are getting soft. The landing is not that bad. Hang it out once in a while and you might be surprised. I tried this with one pad and no spotters and took probably forty falls before I got this problem. Do you all wear helmets while bouldering so you don't bump your heads while walking? Also, you might want to wear some ankle braces and knee pads in case you trip. Just relax. You'll be fine... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental X (V5)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 13, 2004

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Comments: Jeb, I'm sorry to rain on your parade, but I have for sure seen several people do that problem several years ago. Mental Block has been worked over pretty hard since its discovery, and just about every variation under V13 including "your problem" has been done. There are plenty of unreported problems at Rotary.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 10, 2004

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Comments: I just wanted to say thanks to the cheap asshole who stole the hangers of all the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Digital Readout (5.12b/c)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 28, 2004

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Comments: Leave the hammers at home for west side story, it does go clean. Mark Hammond and partner(sorry I don't know your name partner), I think got the first clean ascent. Mark said there were some scary sections, but it goes around C3.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Intifada (5.10 A5 X)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 20, 2004

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Comments: Colin, I honestly cannot think of another group of people who care more about these towers than the climbers who climb them. You are probably right however, that we do inflict the greatest amount of damage to them. I think most issues here boil down to style. I personally feel that once a route has gone clean, it should stay clean. I think most people agree with this logic, yet I still hear recent stories of people nailing on echo tower or the colo-northeast ridge on the king fisher when thi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: I need to flip-flop on my last comment. It is right on at Vedauwoo for .11b ish. Some recent spank sessions on some other ".11b" routes at the Voo have shown me the error of my ways. If you haven't done this route, you don't know what you've been missing.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: You can't place gear everywhere on this route, but what you do get is pretty bomber and definately not runout. Listen to Tony. Placing gear at your waist is a good, efficient technique anyway. Besides, you're in Vedauwoo. R, X, S, VS...it needs to be pretty damn bad to get any of these letters here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Phantom Sprint (5.9 C2)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 10, 2004

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Comments: Unless those bolts were at the belays, the next party up this route should add a crowbar to their rack. Those definately were not there when I did this route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: Alright folks are you ready for the secret key beta? If you do not want too much beta then do not read any more. If you do, here goes. When you get to the wide section at the top use the really good feet out left and the good crimpers and it is one easy move past the "crux" that does not take you off route. Try it and see.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nitrogen Narcosis (5.11a)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: Short and stout. This is one unitimidating route that may catch you by surprise. The crux is short, like two moves, but really tough. Very fun and worth the effort. I personally would not bother to bring anything bigger than a #3 cam. Also there are some really good shakeout holds in the pod. Use them wisely. You will be happy you did. Have fun.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Bat Heaven (5.10c)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: I really like this line. I had no idea what it was when I got on it. It is short, but rest assured, what it lacks in length, it makes up in awkwardness. Much to my surprise, I found it to be a very worthy route. The crux comes fast, but it remains sustained. The pro is really tough to place but really good when you get it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : East Face (Sunflower Tower) (5.10+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Feb 28, 2004

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Comments: This is a fantastic route that is fairly short. The second pitch was stout in my book. It was rattly fingers for me. Stick with it though. The final pitch is dirty but there is nothing to worry about. An excellent climb.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Automotive Supply House (5.11c/d)
By: Andy Johnson When: Feb 10, 2004

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Comments: AC, you are comparing a predominately hand sized line with two reputedly hard, sustained offwidths. I think most people would agree that a mainly hands .11+ can't touch a sustained .11 offwidth in terms of difficulty. If you find grades to translate equally across all sizes of cracks then more power to you.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Andy Johnson When: Feb 6, 2004

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Comments: Tobin, that is definitely an impressive time. It's even more impressive that it was not solo. We spent one spoonaliscous night on Astrodog right at the top. However, I do see how one could be benighted looking for the start of Comic Relief. Have you ever tried to find the start of Debutante's Ball?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Andy Johnson When: Feb 3, 2004

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Comments: Hey Roy, my mom, sister and girlfriend all say hello. I don't really remember falling up anything,but I do remember a pretty good fall down. Just so everyone knows, Roy and I are good friends. We have a trip planned for Alaska this spring where I will be dragging him up all the hard pitches. One question Roy. Did you start Pinch Overhang with both feet on the problem or did you do the traditional start?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jan 18, 2004

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Comments: A bold step djcrux. Maybe too bold. But I support your down-gradery. It is, perhaps, a neccessary step toward the future of mixed climbing in Vail. However, keep you "V" grades the hell away from ice climbing, they have no place here.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jan 18, 2004

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Comments: It should be noted that the current owner of the private property here does not take kindly to climbers on his land. There are many stories of climber's vehicles being towed and or tires deflated, keyed, etc... In the past, the current owner's mother owned the land, and she did not mind climbers on the land. However, things are supposedly different now. I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure I am not.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jan 14, 2004

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Comments: I have a comment on two of the above comments. First of all djcrux. This route consistently forms A LOT fatter than it did on the first ascent. Thereby making the grade seem really inflated. Look in Jeff Lowe's Ice World or whatever the book is called to see the climb in its original condition. I have seen Secret Probation form as a grade 4 climb all the way to the ground. As for the enchainment, 4 years ago Jeremy Everett soloed every pure ice climb in Vail not including Booth Creek Falls... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Nymph Lake : Get a File (WI5- M7-)
By: Andy Johnson When: Dec 27, 2003

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Comments: Are we really talking about the mixed line in the Urinalysis area. It is really fun, but I didn't think it was bad at all. I found it to be a fairly easy on-sight. I really liked the bolt placements and would strongly discourage the addition of more bolts. Currently the route is a little spicy, but safe. As long as you are solid with thin occasionally rotten ice, this route is perfectly safe. A fall from up high would be ugly, but if you made it that far, it should be no problem.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : Debutante's Ball (5.11)
By: Andy Johnson When: Dec 3, 2003

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Comments: This is just an ok route in my opinion. There is a lot of total mank on this route. The saving grace is that there are a couple really fun pitches. Sounds like a lot of Black routes I guess. I have only done about 10 routes in the canyon, and this one is by far my least favorite. I will agree that the crux is finding the start. The obvious feature is the huge boulder next to twin thin cracks and not thin like thin fingers, but beak or knifeblade thin. There were at least 5 moments that I ... more >>


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