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Member Since: Jan 1, 2002
Last Visit: Dec 29, 2007
Contact Andy Johnson


Point Rank: # 3,525
Total Points: 131
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
1 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Andy Johnson been climbing?










Contributions


All 76 | Routes 7 | Areas 1 | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 46 | Posts | Stars 19 | Ratings 3
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Public Whipping Post

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c (6)

Trad, 1 pitch, 30'

WY : Vedauwoo : Master Blaster

Jan 1, 2005

October Light

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (13)

Trad, 1 pitch

WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus

Jul 10, 2004

Flare Thee Well

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (17)

Trad, 1 pitch, 40'

WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus

Oct 19, 2003

Mr. Clean

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c (37)

Trad, 3 pitches, 500'

WY : Devil's Tower : West Face

Oct 5, 2003

Sorcerer's Apprentice Right

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b (8)

Trad, 3 pitches, 280'

UT : Moab Area : ... : The Sorcerer's Apprentice

Mar 23, 2003

The Middle Finger of Dr. Wazz

WI5 (2)

Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch

CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : Glacier Gorge

Jan 1, 2002

Peaches and Cream

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (3)

Trad, 1 pitch, 80'

CO : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls

Jan 1, 2002

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

The Sorcerer's Apprentice

UT : Moab Area : River Road

Mar 25, 2003

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Campjack Rocks
By: Andy Johnson When: Aug 21, 2005

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Comments: I don't know the specifics, but there were some private property issues at campjack. I think one side was private or something. It would be wise to look into this before heading to the area.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : The Grand Traverse (5.10+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 12, 2005

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Comments: Eric, what you have discovered is an interesting and highly misunderstood part of Vedauwoo climbs. Most people think that the shit that is found in large quantities at times is guano. Guano is bat feces. The feces that Vedauwoo is oh so famous for is typically middens or pack rat shit. The reason for it being so solid is that pack rats will nest in the same spots for thousands of years. In essence, the old poo becomes fossilized. As you observed, the majority of a pack rat's diet consists ... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Gravity's Rainbow (5.11c R)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 13, 2005

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Comments: Don't forget the classic Gravity's Rainbow ice route in Ouray.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental X (V5)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 19, 2004

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Comments: So, I showed this to a guy whom you all probably know very well for his climbing and bouldering influence, but I will not reveal his name because I don't know if he would want me to. Anyway, he said that people have been climbing that problem for years, and it even has a name which I cannot remember. So sorry, Jeb, but just because there is not chalk on it does not make it a new problem.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Eliminator Boulder : Left Eliminator (V5)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 13, 2004

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Comments: Ok, folks, I just can't help myself with this one. The above discussion clearly shows that climbers are getting soft. The landing is not that bad. Hang it out once in a while and you might be surprised. I tried this with one pad and no spotters and took probably forty falls before I got this problem. Do you all wear helmets while bouldering so you don't bump your heads while walking? Also, you might want to wear some ankle braces and knee pads in case you trip. Just relax. You'll be fine... more >>


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Rotary Park : Mental Block : Mental X (V5)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 13, 2004

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Comments: Jeb, I'm sorry to rain on your parade, but I have for sure seen several people do that problem several years ago. Mental Block has been worked over pretty hard since its discovery, and just about every variation under V13 including "your problem" has been done. There are plenty of unreported problems at Rotary.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout
By: Andy Johnson When: Jul 10, 2004

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Comments: I just wanted to say thanks to the cheap asshole who stole the hangers of all the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Digital Readout (5.12b/c)
By: Andy Johnson When: Jun 21, 2004

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Comments: I think one star is harsh. This is a fantastic climb if you are climbing at the grade. By the way I definately am not climbing at the grade. This thing is hard and placing gear is really tough.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 28, 2004

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Comments: Leave the hammers at home for west side story, it does go clean. Mark Hammond and partner(sorry I don't know your name partner), I think got the first clean ascent. Mark said there were some scary sections, but it goes around C3.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Intifada (5.10 A5 X)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 20, 2004

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Comments: Colin, I honestly cannot think of another group of people who care more about these towers than the climbers who climb them. You are probably right however, that we do inflict the greatest amount of damage to them. I think most issues here boil down to style. I personally feel that once a route has gone clean, it should stay clean. I think most people agree with this logic, yet I still hear recent stories of people nailing on echo tower or the colo-northeast ridge on the king fisher when thi... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Ghost Dance (5.11)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: I need to flip-flop on my last comment. It is right on at Vedauwoo for .11b ish. Some recent spank sessions on some other ".11b" routes at the Voo have shown me the error of my ways. If you haven't done this route, you don't know what you've been missing.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : 5.11 Crack (5.9+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 19, 2004

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Comments: You can't place gear everywhere on this route, but what you do get is pretty bomber and definately not runout. Listen to Tony. Placing gear at your waist is a good, efficient technique anyway. Besides, you're in Vedauwoo. R, X, S, VS...it needs to be pretty damn bad to get any of these letters here.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Echo Tower : Phantom Sprint (5.9 C2)
By: Andy Johnson When: Apr 10, 2004

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Comments: Unless those bolts were at the belays, the next party up this route should add a crowbar to their rack. Those definately were not there when I did this route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Lower Progressive (5.9+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: Alright folks are you ready for the secret key beta? If you do not want too much beta then do not read any more. If you do, here goes. When you get to the wide section at the top use the really good feet out left and the good crimpers and it is one easy move past the "crux" that does not take you off route. Try it and see.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Nitrogen Narcosis (5.11a)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: Short and stout. This is one unitimidating route that may catch you by surprise. The crux is short, like two moves, but really tough. Very fun and worth the effort. I personally would not bother to bring anything bigger than a #3 cam. Also there are some really good shakeout holds in the pod. Use them wisely. You will be happy you did. Have fun.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Bat Heaven (5.10c)
By: Andy Johnson When: Mar 27, 2004

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Comments: I really like this line. I had no idea what it was when I got on it. It is short, but rest assured, what it lacks in length, it makes up in awkwardness. Much to my surprise, I found it to be a very worthy route. The crux comes fast, but it remains sustained. The pro is really tough to place but really good when you get it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : East Face (Sunflower Tower) (5.10+)
By: Andy Johnson When: Feb 28, 2004

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Comments: This is a fantastic route that is fairly short. The second pitch was stout in my book. It was rattly fingers for me. Stick with it though. The final pitch is dirty but there is nothing to worry about. An excellent climb.


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