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Rock Climbing Photo: Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Andy Hansen

Andy Hansen
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Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,702
Last Year: 88
Last 30 Days: 5
105 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3735 | Routes 78 | Areas 12 | Photos 241 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 534 | Posts 465 | Stars 1266 | Ratings 1138
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Original Fantasy Ridge (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: "5.6+"


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Joy and Tribulation (5.9 R)
By: Andy Hansen When: 16 hours ago

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Comments: Classic route. I climbed this route today and avoided the 5.9R climbing by continuing up the initial crack system of P1 (instead of climbing out right onto the arete and L-Facing corner) and belayed after 120' or so of climbing. I followed Sidewinder's 2nd pitch which was pleasant, albeit a bit grassy, to the ledge system below the chimney. 3rd pitch is phenomenal. The R rated climbing is easily avoidable and all in all still clocks in somewhere around 5.9... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Romancing the Stone (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: 4 days ago

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Comments: This is a damn near classic route. There is a little bit of hollow rock here and there but nothing that's going to come off in a catastrophic way. I kept climbing past the anchors into the neighboring 10-, and this creates a really good mini-extension to an already awesome moderate. Doing the pitch this way, the route is exactly 30m. Tie knots in the end of the rope! All that's really necessary in terms of gear is a finger-sized cam for after the 2nd bolt ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Slab : Film Noir (5.12c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2016

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Comments: Thought this was a great route on really good rock. I onsighted through the crux and then flamed out in the upper 5.11+ bit reaching the anchors. There is some sustained climbing after the crux that is not to be underestimated! Also, the bolting is a bit funky (bolts 8 & 9 could both have been placed 2' lower respectively), so having a long draw on the 8th bolt for your redpoint go would be nice. Otherwise, a fantastic route up a great swath of gently overhanging rock.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 4, 2016

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Comments: This goes nicely in 3 pitches:

P1. 55m, 5.8. Combine first two pitches, and belay at the fixed pin and nut anchor.

P2. 60m, 5.8. Combine third and fourth pitch, and belay about 30' below the cave.

P3. 25m, 5.7. Use the Hurley Traverse exit.

Classic route that is easily repeatable.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 23, 2016

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Comments: Your pants aren't nearly short enough- and are you wearing socks in those climbing shoes? Nice shot.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Standard Route aka 1st Butt... (5.5)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 23, 2016

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Comments: Good route. There are numerous options to approach the upper headwall. Yesterday, two folks and I took a line near the Great Dihedral and meandered up through 500' of broken yet fun alpine terrain to reach the headwall. We climbed the headwall in 3 pitches (150', 100', and 100' respectively), and this allowed me to use the obvious belay stances. Gear wise, a single rack up to #3 Camalot would be appropriate. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: It's possible, though not mandatory, to place a #4 on this route. After the hard climbing, which is well-protected by singles in the hand size or smaller range, there's a perfect pod for a #4. I still find it odd that the anchor for this is two bolts sans chains or rappel equipment. Anyway, move left to the anchor of Hound Dog to get off this rig.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Right Standard (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Pretty great route. A granite equivalent to the 1st or 3rd Flatiron - but with more crack systems. The pitches are long. Each roughly 190' or so. There are about 5 of them to reach the ridge crest on the eastern side of McGregor Slab "summit." The stances are great. Aim for trees, and if there is not a tree, good crack systems appear when in need. Route finding shouldn't be an issue on this route if you trend continually right... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: 5.11 is moderate when the hardest wall ever climbed recently is nearly 5.15.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : A Modern Day Interpretation... (5.10+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: I'm just going to add a few notes here for clarification:

Approaching this route offers some significant exposure. Having the rope on is not a bad idea. Start up CR and after 35' move right around a large boulder, and downclimb a wide slot to a grassy, sloping ledge.

P1 & 2 are the same for C&D. P1 is low-5th class. P2 is great fists to a chimney. Belay as far to the right as possible beneath the C&D crux pitch.

Move the belay right about 75' at a tree in a notch on the corner.

P3 & 4 (of Ma... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: I typically want my hair on fire all the way to the top, so I climb the last pitch of Hair City. This way makes a real hum dinger of a 5.9 rock climb to the top of the mighty, mighty Bastille.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Odessa Gorge : ... : Flattop Gully
By: Andy Hansen When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: I guided two guests on this in February. We found moderate to steep snow and a M2 constriction near the top of the couloir. The main couloir breaks left in the middle and back right to top out. A light rock rack would be a pretty good idea in early or late conditions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: I dunno... take those trees in the background for reference. They seem pretty vertical. Still though, this route isn't that steep!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Mike Finkowski getting rad.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: This is a pretty good route. I don't think the finger crack is as awesome as Nelson describes it. Maybe he was super psyched when he wrote the description and that's OK. However, it's still pretty good but there are very few pure crack moves involved in the pitch. Using a 60m rope it's possible to lower the leader back to the belay ledge and have their second follow the pitch, belaying from the comfort of a fat ledge. Be careful doing so... the pitch is about 101' long.

The approach pitches ca... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Escape from Alcatraz (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: This is an engaging mixed route with great sequences, technical footwork, and decent pro where you need it. The bolting is rather peculiar, but with supplemental gear, this route can be well-protected. I placed a #3 Camalot after the first bolt which helped reduce the run-out between the bolts, but folks stronger than I would surely be all right here. Above the 3rd bolt, there are a few possibilities for sequences - I'll let you decipher these. All in all, a good route at a great crag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Monstro's Gaping Maw : Driftwood: A Fairy Tale (V2)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Driftwood: A Fairy Tale


Classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Zeffe, it's plenty steep. Not overhanging but steep enough for people to take note of it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : Revolver (5.10+) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Is that Mike Steele?!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Sure, Tatooine is a fictional planet part of a binary star system (not to mention the home of the Skywalker clan...) but I think this route is called Tatoween and should therefore be called Tatoween.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Tattle Tale Gully : Killjoy (5.10d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Looks like pure choss...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Keep Your Powder Dry (5.12b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: Holy shit! A photo of Dave sport climbing!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I can vouch for this. ^^^^


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Pretty soft for the 11b and PG-13 rating.... I wouldn't be too concerned with the PG-13 tag. This thing protects very well in my opinion. I'm not even sure where there would be cause for concern? Anyway, this is a classic pitch on good stone with a variety of movement!


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