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Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 200
Total Points: 2,562
Last Year: 166
Last 30 Days: 39
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3257 | Routes 78 | Areas 11 | Photos 223 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 499 | Posts 393 | Stars 1085 | Ratings 967
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : The Gauntlet (5.12+)
By: Andy Hansen When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Yes, life is easier if you can jam, but life is easier if you're a total boss at opposition and stemming... and if you have really long legs. I thought the stemming down low was solid V6 and would likely be harder if you didn't climb to the right after the 3rd bolt. For being a relatively short route, this route has a lot of character and very little rest making it a pretty pumpy/power endurance route and a great one at that! Solid 12d IMO.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Manifest Destiny (5.7)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Manifest Cottontails is a good link-up.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : The Dog (5.7)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Carefully stand on the boulder at the belay of P1. Definitely loose, definitely big and definitely poised to kill people.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tilted Mitten (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Good climb, and if linked up into Wolf's Tooth, it would be a great tour of the Owls. We climbed a variation of P2. Starting on P1c, in the above description, we belayed below an overhanging wall/short, left-facing corner. We took this corner to a low angle area full of bushes and a dead tree (the dead tree is a good landmark to belay below) and belayed below a hand crack through an overlap. We climbed the handcrack through the overlap to a large alcove, chimneyed up to a thin l-facing corner, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: I broke a hold around the 2nd bolt yesterday. It's the large undercling... it's gone now. The route still goes at 11b. Sorry for being a large human being.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Dirty Deed (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was awesome! Seriously - good pro, decent rock, great climbing and chimney moves.... So good! I did the first pitch of Dirty Deed and then did a pitch in the chimney to the top. This avoids a junky looking first pitch in the chimney.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Sting (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: We climbed this today and finished on the crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Not sure if this is correct but if done this way, wouldn't it make this 5.11d? Either way, good crux moves on this route into awesome crux moves of Atlas Shrugged.

Edit: clearly the way we climbed it is not the correct line, although it makes for a very good route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hairlip (5.9+) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Good technique displayed too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: Do you mean Leia? Leia did eventually carry a lightsaber as she herself did become a Jedi.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: The bird poop factor is pretty low right now except for a detritus heap atop the loose blocks. All in all, a clean route by most standards. Doing it as one pitch is pretty straightforward - place minimal gear on P1 and use long runners/back clean to prevent drag. Pretty light rack honestly. Nothing larger than a 0.5 Camalot and doubles from 0.75-#2 and a single #3 should do ya good. This is a good route, and if the feet weren't as good as they are, this thing would be splitter 5.12.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Classic route. Each pitch gets progressively better. For the belay before the crux pitch: I didn't belay in the corner but instead traversed at the top of the corner (below the pin) to the right. I belayed in a left-angling crack which is a part of Barbarella (10d), and when I started the crux pitch, I climbed about 20' of this angling crack to join the crux on The Barb. The belay is semi-hanging on a 1' wide ledge. The gear is small-med. cams and stoppers. Adds a bit more climbing to the short ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: and i think a person was actually climbing up your butt


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: you core shot a rope too on this pitch


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: There is currently an RP and 0.3 Camalot fixed below the crux. Awesome route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Disco Inferno (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Benjamin, we're not stalking Woodchuck ATC... he just posts on all the hot women pics that we look at.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Flying Vee (5.10a X)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Out There (5.9 R)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: J. Mascis on skis ripping the opening shred may in fact be better than John K. leading this rig.




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : F**k You (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: To Page: leave the tricams at home. A wonky but reliable #1 Camalot in a slot + a threaded sling (use your nut tool) in a hueco works really well. Or just bury yourself in the slot behind the flake and use the terrain to your advantage.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Jim Jam (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: 5.8 compared to Lower Progressive! Pretty great route that is a decent warm up for harder routes in the area.


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Strip : Station 62 (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: If I remember correctly I read the name Angel Food in a comprehensive WI/MI Guidebook. I'll change it to appropriately reflect it's history and continuity.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: ^^ Best comment.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Livin' on Borrowed Time, 11c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: I'll give my two cents here: this was a frustrating route for me to say the least. I read the above comments from Adam and thought to myself, "It can't be that hard...." The boulder problem at the first bolt is devious, but once you've wired it (thanks for the beta, Jay...), it seems right on for 12a. I guess I didn't think twice about the runout above bolt two, but off the rest stance at bolts 4/5, the route is strenuous, technical, and deceptive. It took me many goes to finally wire these move... more >>


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