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Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Andy Hansen


Point Rank: # 196
Total Points: 2,477
Last Year: 203
Last 30 Days: 1
88 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (3015) | Routes (76) | Areas (11) | Photos (217) | Comments (467) | Posts (367) | Stars (994) | Ratings (883)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M4)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: As of 3/21/14 the decent looking angle at the crux of the mixed climbing has "reappeared." It is currently sporting a faded looking piece of cord to clip.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Like the lightweight that I am, I took a fall here. I should have remembered this picture of Manny. Like the lightweight that I am, I went left side in... Trying to turn around from that position to right side in, I got spit out. Pretty surprising fall and on a tipped out #5 Camalot which I thought was virtually useless. It turned out to be pretty solid. Awesome route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: I thought of this link-up before and wanted to call it "The Velvet Sea." Not saying that I was the first to think of it, but just giving my two cents for a name.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Goofballz.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Gus (5.10d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Aka Stallone Bulge. Airy, bulgy, Stalloney.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: As of March 6th, 2014, there is still a fixed wire on the 2nd pitch. I would recommend using runners on all gear above the crux as there is a rope eating flake at the top of the 5.8 corner. Still a great route, too!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : All Mixed Up (WI4 R) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: Are these recent conditions?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Upper Painted Bowl : Chicken Lips (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 27, 2014

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Comments: @vagenius I love that you used a hashtag and ampersand as one and the same. I also love that you rebolted this, what appears to be, gem. I look forward to climbing it in April.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Coors Lite (WI2-3)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 26, 2014

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Comments: Ice is sublimating on the "2nd" pitch. Climbable, but leading this section could be spicy! That said, I led the left side and that seemed to take the "best" screws.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Lincoln Falls Minor (WI4-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: There is aerated ice and a horizontal fracture almost around the entire circumference about 12' from the ground. It is probably best to let this one heal.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall : Sickle on a Stick (WI5)
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: There is a fist-size, horizontal fracture around entire column at the top. I wouldn't climb this anytime soon. The WI3 to the left of this is in and the ice is great. The WI4 to the right of Sickle is also pretty chandeliered and delicate looking.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : The Wizard (5.12a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Very good and sustained technical climbing! I thought the grade leaned a bit closer to 12b but maybe I'm getting soft living in Colorado... probably. Either way, the sustained nature of the route (save for the last 15 feet) really make this a classic.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Welcome to Milagrosa (5.10a/b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: Deceptively steep upper bit. Seemingly solid rock save for a few hollow crimps down low. Really great rock climbing.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jungle Wall : Jungle Wall (5.11b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: The man has principles, Justin. Kris, this is still a great photo.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Intruder (5.11+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: Despite what it says in the description , I managed to place a .5, .75, 1 and 3 Camalot on this route. Plus two .3 and .4 Camalots and a #1 C3 as well. This is indeed a great route- clipping the chains is the crux IMO.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Windy Peak : South Face : Jubilant Song (5.8) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 15, 2013

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Comments: cactusrat, you're like, so funny.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Deborah (M3-4 Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 5, 2013

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Comments: Deborah is not in this photo unfortunately. Deborah is on the south/southwestern face of Arrowhead.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Trophy Crack (5.10- V0-1)
By: Andy Hansen When: Dec 4, 2013

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Comments: More pantsless pictures of you sending this, please, Matt.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : All You Can Eat (5.10d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: But isn't Matt's hat nice?


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Ginger Buttress : All You Can Eat (5.10d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 15, 2013

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Comments: Can't honestly say when it appeared. I certainly didn't place it on our ascent and, in fact, the 10a pitch above the 10c pitch (this pitch photoed here is an "approach" pitch) can be done entirely without the bolts.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Plan B (5.12b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: This route is essentially 3-4 awesome boulder problems linked with OK rests between. Super fantastic and well-protected route. Bakes in the sun and is actually kind of slippery if not below 50 degrees.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Security Risk Massif : Upper Security Risk : Get Smart (5.10d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Pretty great route for a cool autumn afternoon... ah! I brought a new #5 Camalot and #4 and felt pretty secure with both of these pieces. I thought the OW was going to be the crux, but... I was wrong and pleasantly surprised when I entered the upper crux. Super fun, very well-protected crack climb on good rock in an amazing position! Get on it!


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Bishop : Bishop Crack (5.12c) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: Excellent!


Location: CO : Golden : The Quarry Wall : Frank's Wild Years (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 6, 2013

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Comments: Tough warm-up. Awesome route though. Doubles up to 0.5 (including C3s or equivalent) is sufficient with stoppers and single #1 and #2. This is a pretty great route at the grade, and the name is great - awesome record/song.


Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.9-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 4, 2013

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Comments: This is a pretty good route. My girlfriend and I climbed this route yesterday in pretty windy conditions - up to 40mph gusts. Approach took 1h15m at a casual pace and was pretty easy to follow the "trail."

All in all, the climbing is pretty easy with short cruxes thrown in to make it exciting. We both agreed the climbing was no harder than 5.8+. The "finger crack" variation on P4 is really just a couple moves of Lumpy Ridge-esque "crack climbing." I think I locked one time towards the top of t... more >>


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