Comments: I thought this route was awesome! Seriously - good pro, decent rock, great climbing and chimney moves.... So good! I did the first pitch of Dirty Deed and then did a pitch in the chimney to the top. This avoids a junky looking first pitch in the chimney.
Comments: We climbed this today and finished on the crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Not sure if this is correct but if done this way, wouldn't it make this 5.11d? Either way, good crux moves on this route into awesome crux moves of Atlas Shrugged.
Edit: clearly the way we climbed it is not the correct line, although it makes for a very good route.
Comments: The bird poop factor is pretty low right now except for a detritus heap atop the loose blocks. All in all, a clean route by most standards. Doing it as one pitch is pretty straightforward - place minimal gear on P1 and use long runners/back clean to prevent drag. Pretty light rack honestly. Nothing larger than a 0.5 Camalot and doubles from 0.75-#2 and a single #3 should do ya good. This is a good route, and if the feet weren't as good as they are, this thing would be splitter 5.12.
Comments: Classic route. Each pitch gets progressively better. For the belay before the crux pitch: I didn't belay in the corner but instead traversed at the top of the corner (below the pin) to the right. I belayed in a left-angling crack which is a part of Barbarella (10d), and when I started the crux pitch, I climbed about 20' of this angling crack to join the crux on The Barb. The belay is semi-hanging on a 1' wide ledge. The gear is small-med. cams and stoppers. Adds a bit more climbing to the short ... more >>
Comments: I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too.
Comments: This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.
Comments: Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well.
Comments: To Page: leave the tricams at home. A wonky but reliable #1 Camalot in a slot + a threaded sling (use your nut tool) in a hueco works really well. Or just bury yourself in the slot behind the flake and use the terrain to your advantage.
Comments: I'll give my two cents here: this was a frustrating route for me to say the least. I read the above comments from Adam and thought to myself, "It can't be that hard...." The boulder problem at the first bolt is devious, but once you've wired it (thanks for the beta, Jay...), it seems right on for 12a. I guess I didn't think twice about the runout above bolt two, but off the rest stance at bolts 4/5, the route is strenuous, technical, and deceptive. It took me many goes to finally wire these move... more >>
Comments: 5.9+ and not easier than DoWT. There is some beta at the crux that makes this feel easier. Going left to a "jug" left of the crack instead of going right is helpful. This may seem counterintuitive and somewhat "spicy" but that's what has worked for me and I've done this half a dozen times. Tick it at 10a if you want but I think Chicken Eruptus and Kemosabe are more 10a than this.
Comments: Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice.
Comments: This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon.