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Rock Climbing Photo: Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
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Andy Hansen
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Point Rank: # 223
Total Points: 2,697
Last Year: 90
Last 30 Days: 6
103 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3695 | Routes 78 | Areas 12 | Photos 241 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 529 | Posts 459 | Stars 1251 | Ratings 1124
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Your pants aren't nearly short enough- and are you wearing socks in those climbing shoes? Nice shot.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Standard Route aka 1st Butt... (5.5)
By: Andy Hansen When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Good route. There are numerous options to approach the upper headwall. Yesterday, two folks and I took a line near the Great Dihedral and meandered up through 500' of broken yet fun alpine terrain to reach the headwall. We climbed the headwall in 3 pitches (150', 100', and 100' respectively), and this allowed me to use the obvious belay stances. Gear wise, a single rack up to #3 Camalot would be appropriate. Th... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : Gates of Eden (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: It's possible, though not mandatory, to place a #4 on this route. After the hard climbing, which is well-protected by singles in the hand size or smaller range, there's a perfect pod for a #4. I still find it odd that the anchor for this is two bolts sans chains or rappel equipment. Anyway, move left to the anchor of Hound Dog to get off this rig.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Right Standard (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2016

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Comments: Pretty great route. A granite equivalent to the 1st or 3rd Flatiron - but with more crack systems. The pitches are long. Each roughly 190' or so. There are about 5 of them to reach the ridge crest on the eastern side of McGregor Slab "summit." The stances are great. Aim for trees, and if there is not a tree, good crack systems appear when in need. Route finding shouldn't be an issue on this route if you trend continually right... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Prisoner of Your Hairdo Gul... : Atlantis (5.11 PG13)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: 5.11 is moderate when the hardest wall ever climbed recently is nearly 5.15.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : SOB Gully (skier's left sid... : A Modern Day Interpretation... (5.10+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 2, 2016

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Comments: I'm just going to add a few notes here for clarification:

Approaching this route offers some significant exposure. Having the rope on is not a bad idea. Start up CR and after 35' move right around a large boulder, and downclimb a wide slot to a grassy, sloping ledge.

P1 & 2 are the same for C&D. P1 is low-5th class. P2 is great fists to a chimney. Belay as far to the right as possible beneath the C&D crux pitch.

Move the belay right about 75' at a tree in a notch on the corner.

P3 & 4 (of Ma... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 27, 2016

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Comments: I typically want my hair on fire all the way to the top, so I climb the last pitch of Hair City. This way makes a real hum dinger of a 5.9 rock climb to the top of the mighty, mighty Bastille.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Odessa Gorge : ... : Flattop Gully
By: Andy Hansen When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: I guided two guests on this in February. We found moderate to steep snow and a M2 constriction near the top of the couloir. The main couloir breaks left in the middle and back right to top out. A light rock rack would be a pretty good idea in early or late conditions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: I dunno... take those trees in the background for reference. They seem pretty vertical. Still though, this route isn't that steep!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Mike Finkowski getting rad.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: This is a pretty good route. I don't think the finger crack is as awesome as Nelson describes it. Maybe he was super psyched when he wrote the description and that's OK. However, it's still pretty good but there are very few pure crack moves involved in the pitch. Using a 60m rope it's possible to lower the leader back to the belay ledge and have their second follow the pitch, belaying from the comfort of a fat ledge. Be careful doing so... the pitch is about 101' long.

The approach pitches ca... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Escape from Alcatraz (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: This is an engaging mixed route with great sequences, technical footwork, and decent pro where you need it. The bolting is rather peculiar, but with supplemental gear, this route can be well-protected. I placed a #3 Camalot after the first bolt which helped reduce the run-out between the bolts, but folks stronger than I would surely be all right here. Above the 3rd bolt, there are a few possibilities for sequences - I'll let you decipher these. All in all, a good route at a great crag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Monstro's Gaping Maw : Driftwood: A Fairy Tale (V2)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Driftwood: A Fairy Tale


Classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Zeffe, it's plenty steep. Not overhanging but steep enough for people to take note of it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : Revolver (5.10+) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Is that Mike Steele?!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Sure, Tatooine is a fictional planet part of a binary star system (not to mention the home of the Skywalker clan...) but I think this route is called Tatoween and should therefore be called Tatoween.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Tattle Tale Gully : Killjoy (5.10d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Looks like pure choss...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Keep Your Powder Dry (5.12b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: Holy shit! A photo of Dave sport climbing!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I can vouch for this. ^^^^


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Pretty soft for the 11b and PG-13 rating.... I wouldn't be too concerned with the PG-13 tag. This thing protects very well in my opinion. I'm not even sure where there would be cause for concern? Anyway, this is a classic pitch on good stone with a variety of movement!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Wow. What a great route! This thing definitely felt in the solid 5.10 range for me personally, and I guess I consider myself a decent OW climber but don't let the intimidating nature of the route deter you from climbing this. It protects well with a fairly normal rack of cams. I thought each pitch was relatively demanding gear wise so do take the little cams with you- especially for the pitch leading up to the first 5.10 pitch. My rack beta: (1) #0.1-#5 Camalot, (2) #0.5-@POUND... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The 44 (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure if this is better than the first pitch of FC, but... it's pretty good and varied. Save the #3 and #4 for the belay... if you brought a #4.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Many Pines Buttress : Michael's Project (5.7+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a good Dawn Wall trainer.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Oh, the memories... I can almost feel the 100's of grains of sand in my eyes... So bad yet so good.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Toot (5.10d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: I'll say that if you stick clip the nut in place it may feel like 10c. I didn't, and it felt like 10d or even 11a. I've climbed easier V3s than this. There are definitely feet to use in the opening moves- they are just subtle and/or high up. I thought the real crux was higher up when the crack jogs left and the gear is thin... there are some subtle movements that seem harder than the opening moves. Overall, this route is great and is more technical than Outlander... so it's hard to compare the ... more >>


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