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Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt Kuehl


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Andy Hansen


Point Rank: # 202
Total Points: 2,506
Last Year: 111
Last 30 Days: 5
96 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Andy Hansen been climbing?










Contributions


All 3181 | Routes 77 | Areas 11 | Photos 217 | Page Improvments | Comments 486 | Posts 386 | Stars 1060 | Ratings 944
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: There is currently an RP and 0.3 Camalot fixed below the crux. Awesome route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Disco Inferno (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Benjamin, we're not stalking Woodchuck ATC... he just posts on all the hot women pics that we look at.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Flying Vee (5.10a X)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12c A0)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Out There (5.9 R)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: J. Mascis on skis ripping the opening shred may in fact be better than John K. leading this rig.




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : F**k You (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 28, 2014

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Comments: Tricky route to onsight but well worth the effort to do so. Not a great route to push the grade on in my opinion as a groundfall is possible if you blow the hardest (yeah, the hardest moves are off the ground) moves of the route getting to the first bolt. Being tall is helpful and footwork is key higher up. Good crack moves to finish the route as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Reggae (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 20, 2014

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Comments: To Page: leave the tricams at home. A wonky but reliable #1 Camalot in a slot + a threaded sling (use your nut tool) in a hueco works really well. Or just bury yourself in the slot behind the flake and use the terrain to your advantage.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Jim Jam (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: 5.8 compared to Lower Progressive! Pretty great route that is a decent warm up for harder routes in the area.


Location: MN : Interstate SP (Taylors Fall... : Minnesota Strip : Station 62 (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 12, 2014

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Comments: If I remember correctly I read the name Angel Food in a comprehensive WI/MI Guidebook. I'll change it to appropriately reflect it's history and continuity.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jun 11, 2014

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Comments: ^^ Best comment.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: May 26, 2014

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Comments: Livin' on Borrowed Time, 11c.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Sargasso Sea (5.12a)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: I'll give my two cents here: this was a frustrating route for me to say the least. I read the above comments from Adam and thought to myself, "It can't be that hard...." The boulder problem at the first bolt is devious, but once you've wired it (thanks for the beta, Jay...), it seems right on for 12a. I guess I didn't think twice about the runout above bolt two, but off the rest stance at bolts 4/5, the route is strenuous, technical, and deceptive. It took me many goes to finally wire these move... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Plan F - first pitch (5.9) (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 9, 2014

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Comments: 5.9+ and not easier than DoWT. There is some beta at the crux that makes this feel easier. Going left to a "jug" left of the crack instead of going right is helpful. This may seem counterintuitive and somewhat "spicy" but that's what has worked for me and I've done this half a dozen times. Tick it at 10a if you want but I think Chicken Eruptus and Kemosabe are more 10a than this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Black Widow Slab : Dracula (5.12b)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: Good rock, great clipping stances, awesome movement. I don't think it necessarily deserves 4-stars, but I think 3.5 would be appropriate. The only drawback is that the crux is over all too soon.... Probably a bit harder for shorter folks, but I guess shorties have done it quite easily in the past? Some long draws are nice.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress : Maternal Damnation (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Cool position... but the rock quality isn't that great. Flaky weirdness. I'd rather climb at Lumpy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bell Buttress Massif : Bell Buttress - Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: May 5, 2014

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Comments: Strong, this is Cosmosis. Not the N. Face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Wine and Roses (5.11-)
By: Andy Hansen When: May 3, 2014

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Comments: This route is bizarre in that trad climbing sort of way. There are some well-protected moves upon entering the corner, good stems, and tricky gear going out the roof. Body English if you're short, a long reach to a good lock if you're tall. I'll echo Tony B's gear rec. x2 in the 0.3-0.5 Camalot range, some C3s or equivalent, small stoppers and maybe a #1 Camalot. Good, funky, unique route for this grade in Boulder Canyon.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - West of the Qu... : Vulture Lookout : The V (aka The Vulva) (5.10d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: This looks like classic Eldo 5.9.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Michael's Project (5.7)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 23, 2014

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Comments: This is the best route at the Lake.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M4)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: As of 3/21/14 the decent looking angle at the crux of the mixed climbing has "reappeared." It is currently sporting a faded looking piece of cord to clip.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Like the lightweight that I am, I took a fall here. I should have remembered this picture of Manny. Like the lightweight that I am, I went left side in... Trying to turn around from that position to right side in, I got spit out. Pretty surprising fall and on a tipped out #5 Camalot which I thought was virtually useless. It turned out to be pretty solid. Awesome route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Steel Monkey (5.10+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: I thought of this link-up before and wanted to call it "The Velvet Sea." Not saying that I was the first to think of it, but just giving my two cents for a name.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Many Pines Buttress : Peter's Project (5.7) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Goofballz.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Gus (5.10d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 9, 2014

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Comments: Aka Stallone Bulge. Airy, bulgy, Stalloney.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up (5.10c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: As of March 6th, 2014, there is still a fixed wire on the 2nd pitch. I would recommend using runners on all gear above the crux as there is a rope eating flake at the top of the 5.8 corner. Still a great route, too!


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