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Rock Climbing Photo: Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 9 hours ago
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Andy Hansen
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Point Rank: # 224
Total Points: 2,691
Last Year: 124
Last 30 Days: 23
103 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3668 | Routes 78 | Areas 12 | Photos 241 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 523 | Posts 458 | Stars 1241 | Ratings 1114
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : West Buttress (5.10a)
By: Andy Hansen When: 3 days ago

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Comments: I typically want my hair on fire all the way to the top, so I climb the last pitch of Hair City. This way makes a real hum dinger of a 5.9 rock climb to the top of the mighty, mighty Bastille.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Odessa Gorge : ... : Flattop Gully
By: Andy Hansen When: May 16, 2016

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Comments: I guided two guests on this in February. We found moderate to steep snow and a M2 constriction near the top of the couloir. The main couloir breaks left in the middle and back right to top out. A light rock rack would be a pretty good idea in early or late conditions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: May 5, 2016

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Comments: I dunno... take those trees in the background for reference. They seem pretty vertical. Still though, this route isn't that steep!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Bear Lake Trailheads : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: Mike Finkowski getting rad.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Bloodline (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: This is a pretty good route. I don't think the finger crack is as awesome as Nelson describes it. Maybe he was super psyched when he wrote the description and that's OK. However, it's still pretty good but there are very few pure crack moves involved in the pitch. Using a 60m rope it's possible to lower the leader back to the belay ledge and have their second follow the pitch, belaying from the comfort of a fat ledge. Be careful doing so... the pitch is about 101' long.

The approach pitches ca... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Longmont Reservoir Area (ak... : ... : Escape from Alcatraz (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 13, 2016

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Comments: This is an engaging mixed route with great sequences, technical footwork, and decent pro where you need it. The bolting is rather peculiar, but with supplemental gear, this route can be well-protected. I placed a #3 Camalot after the first bolt which helped reduce the run-out between the bolts, but folks stronger than I would surely be all right here. Above the 3rd bolt, there are a few possibilities for sequences - I'll let you decipher these. All in all, a good route at a great crag.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : Monstro's Gaping Maw : Driftwood: A Fairy Tale (V2)
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 11, 2016

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Comments: Driftwood: A Fairy Tale


Classic.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Epinephrine (5.9) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 7, 2016

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Comments: Zeffe, it's plenty steep. Not overhanging but steep enough for people to take note of it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Alternative Crag : Revolver (5.10+) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Apr 3, 2016

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Comments: Is that Mike Steele?!


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Mar 6, 2016

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Comments: Sure, Tatooine is a fictional planet part of a binary star system (not to mention the home of the Skywalker clan...) but I think this route is called Tatoween and should therefore be called Tatoween.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Tattle Tale Gully : Killjoy (5.10d) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Looks like pure choss...


Location: NV : Red Rock : Sandstone Quarry : The Trophy Wall : Keep Your Powder Dry (5.12b) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 27, 2016

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Comments: Holy shit! A photo of Dave sport climbing!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Riding Hood Wall : Big Bad Wolf (5.9)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 19, 2015

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Comments: I can vouch for this. ^^^^


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : Scorpions (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 22, 2015

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Comments: Pretty soft for the 11b and PG-13 rating.... I wouldn't be too concerned with the PG-13 tag. This thing protects very well in my opinion. I'm not even sure where there would be cause for concern? Anyway, this is a classic pitch on good stone with a variety of movement!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Turnkorner (5.10b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 14, 2015

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Comments: Wow. What a great route! This thing definitely felt in the solid 5.10 range for me personally, and I guess I consider myself a decent OW climber but don't let the intimidating nature of the route deter you from climbing this. It protects well with a fairly normal rack of cams. I thought each pitch was relatively demanding gear wise so do take the little cams with you- especially for the pitch leading up to the first 5.10 pitch. My rack beta: (1) #0.1-#5 Camalot, (2) #0.5-@POUND... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The 44 (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: I'm not sure if this is better than the first pitch of FC, but... it's pretty good and varied. Save the #3 and #4 for the belay... if you brought a #4.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Many Pines Buttress : Michael's Project (5.7+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a good Dawn Wall trainer.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Isaac : Tricks of the Trade (5.10+ C2) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 21, 2015

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Comments: Oh, the memories... I can almost feel the 100's of grains of sand in my eyes... So bad yet so good.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : Toot (5.10d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: I'll say that if you stick clip the nut in place it may feel like 10c. I didn't, and it felt like 10d or even 11a. I've climbed easier V3s than this. There are definitely feet to use in the opening moves- they are just subtle and/or high up. I thought the real crux was higher up when the crack jogs left and the gear is thin... there are some subtle movements that seem harder than the opening moves. Overall, this route is great and is more technical than Outlander... so it's hard to compare the ... more >>


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Tatooine (5.11a) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jan 18, 2015

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Comments: Great shot! Makes me want to climb this route... this pitch looks fantastic!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge Trailhead Ice : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M5-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: This fine traditional mixed route now sports a shiny bolt where there was once a knifeblade.... What's up with this addition?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: All I can say is...onesie.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Fails of Power (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^ I'll second that. Shune's is more like 11b. This...is solid for the grade and maybe even harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: There are currently no fixed draws on this route, and I did not find hanging the draws to be such a chore that this route should be equipped with permanent draws. Easy to hang the draws from good stances and good holds. I can see this pushing 13a for short folks and somewhere around hard 12 for tall folks. Either way, good movement, great holds, and although the climbing eases considerably after the crux, the climbing above the crux is still cerebral.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Semi -Automatic (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Considering that this is a traditional route and climbs very differently than any 11 or 12 sport route at the Primo area, I have to disagree with the description above - it feels very much like 5.11+. The entrance crux moves are weird, very difficult, and very good once figured out. The upper 5.10 climbing is great stemming and steep climbing on good holds. Protects very, very well without nuts. A single set of TCUs or C3s and single cams up to #1 Camalot is sufficient.


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