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Intruder, 5.11+. Zion National Park. Photo: Matt K...


Member Since: Sep 26, 2009
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 200
Total Points: 2,584
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 3351 | Routes 78 | Areas 11 | Photos 226 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 506 | Posts 416 | Stars 1116 | Ratings 997
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge : Mixed Feelings (WI4 M4)
By: Andy Hansen When: Nov 22, 2014

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Comments: This fine traditional mixed route now sports a shiny bolt where there was once a knifeblade.... What's up with this addition?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: All I can say is...onesie.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Fails of Power (5.11c)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 7, 2014

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Comments: ^^^^ I'll second that. Shune's is more like 11b. This...is solid for the grade and maybe even harder.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Plotinus Wall : ... : Lucid Dreaming (5.12d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 5, 2014

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Comments: There are currently no fixed draws on this route, and I did not find hanging the draws to be such a chore that this route should be equipped with permanent draws. Easy to hang the draws from good stances and good holds. I can see this pushing 13a for short folks and somewhere around hard 12 for tall folks. Either way, good movement, great holds, and although the climbing eases considerably after the crux, the climbing above the crux is still cerebral.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Semi -Automatic (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: Considering that this is a traditional route and climbs very differently than any 11 or 12 sport route at the Primo area, I have to disagree with the description above - it feels very much like 5.11+. The entrance crux moves are weird, very difficult, and very good once figured out. The upper 5.10 climbing is great stemming and steep climbing on good holds. Protects very, very well without nuts. A single set of TCUs or C3s and single cams up to #1 Camalot is sufficient.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Off the Couch (5.10)
By: Andy Hansen When: Oct 2, 2014

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Comments: I'll echo Jay's comments that this is a great "little" route and a decent warm-up for the Armory area. I wish it were a little longer but nonetheless, there is great hold variety, and it's steep enough to require one to actually hang on a little bit.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : First Tier : Body Count (5.11a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 27, 2014

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Comments: Turd pile.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : The Gauntlet (5.12+)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: Yes, life is easier if you can jam, but life is easier if you're a total boss at opposition and stemming... and if you have really long legs. I thought the stemming down low was solid V6 and would likely be harder if you didn't climb to the right after the 3rd bolt. For being a relatively short route, this route has a lot of character and very little rest making it a pretty pumpy/power endurance route and a great one at that! Solid 12d IMO.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : Manifest Destiny (5.7)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Manifest Cottontails is a good link-up.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Left Book : The Dog (5.7)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Carefully stand on the boulder at the belay of P1. Definitely loose, definitely big and definitely poised to kill people.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : Tilted Mitten (5.8)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Good climb, and if linked up into Wolf's Tooth, it would be a great tour of the Owls. We climbed a variation of P2. Starting on P1c, in the above description, we belayed below an overhanging wall/short, left-facing corner. We took this corner to a low angle area full of bushes and a dead tree (the dead tree is a good landmark to belay below) and belayed below a hand crack through an overlap. We climbed the handcrack through the overlap to a large alcove, chimneyed up to a thin l-facing corner, a... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Touch Monkey (5.11b)
By: Andy Hansen When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: I broke a hold around the 2nd bolt yesterday. It's the large undercling... it's gone now. The route still goes at 11b. Sorry for being a large human being.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Dirty Deed (5.6)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was awesome! Seriously - good pro, decent rock, great climbing and chimney moves.... So good! I did the first pitch of Dirty Deed and then did a pitch in the chimney to the top. This avoids a junky looking first pitch in the chimney.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : The Sting (5.11)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: We climbed this today and finished on the crux moves of Atlas Shrugged. Not sure if this is correct but if done this way, wouldn't it make this 5.11d? Either way, good crux moves on this route into awesome crux moves of Atlas Shrugged.

Edit: clearly the way we climbed it is not the correct line, although it makes for a very good route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Hairlip (5.9+) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 20, 2014

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Comments: Great route! Good technique displayed too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Lower Peanuts : ... : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: Do you mean Leia? Leia did eventually carry a lightsaber as she herself did become a Jedi.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Roadrunner (5.11-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 17, 2014

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Comments: The bird poop factor is pretty low right now except for a detritus heap atop the loose blocks. All in all, a clean route by most standards. Doing it as one pitch is pretty straightforward - place minimal gear on P1 and use long runners/back clean to prevent drag. Pretty light rack honestly. Nothing larger than a 0.5 Camalot and doubles from 0.75-#2 and a single #3 should do ya good. This is a good route, and if the feet weren't as good as they are, this thing would be splitter 5.12.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : The Barb (5.10-)
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: Classic route. Each pitch gets progressively better. For the belay before the crux pitch: I didn't belay in the corner but instead traversed at the top of the corner (below the pin) to the right. I belayed in a left-angling crack which is a part of Barbarella (10d), and when I started the crux pitch, I climbed about 20' of this angling crack to join the crux on The Barb. The belay is semi-hanging on a 1' wide ledge. The gear is small-med. cams and stoppers. Adds a bit more climbing to the short ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: and i think a person was actually climbing up your butt


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: you core shot a rope too on this pitch


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : The Wasp (5.13a)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: There is currently an RP and 0.3 Camalot fixed below the crux. Awesome route.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Desert Shield Buttress : Disco Inferno (5.8 C2) : Photo
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 16, 2014

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Comments: Benjamin, we're not stalking Woodchuck ATC... he just posts on all the hot women pics that we look at.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Flying Vee (5.10a X)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Red Limit (5.12d)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route, and I'll agree with the comment about tension and technique being of more value than pure finger strength. However, it doesn't hurt to have some good old fashion burl when it comes to bearing down on those crimps. The crux holds are good, the feet okay with some straightforward, hard rock climbing. This felt much more doable and not annoying like the newer 12b on Oceanic Wall.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Sandstone Area : Old Sandstone : Out There (5.9 R)
By: Andy Hansen When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: J. Mascis on skis ripping the opening shred may in fact be better than John K. leading this rig.




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