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Member Since: Jan 21, 2008
Last Visit: Apr 22, 2013
Contact Andy Chasteen


Point Rank: # 1,753
Total Points: 332
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
44 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Andy Chasteen been climbing?










Contributions


All 104 | Routes 15 | Areas 1 | Photos 28 | Page Improvments | Comments 27 | Posts | Stars 31 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Dream Boat Annie (Version 2...
By: Andy Chasteen When: Feb 7, 2008

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Comments: Yep, noticed that about 5 minutes after I added the section. Requested that it be moved and the administrator is working on it. I think he is going to combine them since my information as a lot of detail in it.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : summer rain (5.7)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: This is the first route to the right of the circus wall (Big Top, Trapeze Artist, etc). First route to the left of Cotton Candy.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Private Property (5.9+)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: I've heard a lot of people call this route Lamb Chops, but I believe that is actually a gear route to the left of Private Property.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Lavender Eye (5.12a)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: It's between Sonny Jim and 1st Normal Form.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : Horny Goatweed (5.11a)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: Cool route. Do it everytime I'm at the ranch. Steep jug haul.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The North Forty : First Normal Form (5.9)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: This route is situated between Lavender Eye and Green Goblin. Starts as a steep jug haul and moves to vertical climbing before the finishing crux at the top. Very pumpy for a 5.9. Good route. 7 bolts I believe.


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Smoke in Your Eyes (5.9)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 30, 2008

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Comments: There is no bolted anchor to date, but a couple of good trees to sling.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Richard Pryor Route (5.8)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: Hard to not have rope drag, way too short for multiple pitches. Contrived, but still worth climbing. Almost peeled on the lichen covered traverse at the end, escaping a nasty long fall. Puckered a bit.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : The Flying Nun (5.9)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: A lot of fun, wish it was longer. I protected the roof with a #1 camalot.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Dr. Coolhead (5.10d X)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: Still only 2 bolts. And yes there is a good deal of space where your cam will not prevent ground fall if you fall before the first bolt.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Yee Haw (5.6)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: My first trad lead. Grunted up it with no hand jams (didn't know what a hand jam was). A good beginner lead.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Upper Mount Scott : Foolish Behavior (5.9+ PG13)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: Probably deserves an R rating for the runout at the top from the last bolt. I've seen a nasty whipper come off the top.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Romper Room : Simply Red (5.8)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: gets shade all day, nice route in the summer.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : Mr. Clean (5.8)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: THE best 5.8 on the refuge.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : High Anxiety (5.7)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: This is arguably the most climbed route in the Refuge. Always sees traffic because of quick access to the route, and the two bolt anchor at the top.
Plus it's a good climb....


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Mount Scott : Lower Mount Scott : Brirthday Boy (5.6)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: I agree with you Murry of Furry-ness. Clean down low, then choss fest up top.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Echo Dome : Frosted Flakes (5.9)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: Last time I was there the hanger on the first bolt was loose.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : For A Rocker (5.8+)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: The beginning is more of a mental crux than anything. Fairly casual climbing to the crack, just high off the ground. I found that a .4 or .5 works very well in the first finger slot once you get into the crack.....or maybe that was a yellow C3?
Killer jams once you get a couple feet into the crack. Good route to learn cracks.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Blades of Steel (5.11)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: Crux comes after the first bolt, but once you get to the point of clipping the second bolt you are on fairly solid ground, albeit you might have a decent case of Elvis Leg going. Ground fall would probably never happen unless you have a dozing belayer. Hitting the tree, on the other hand, is a possibility.


Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : Charon's Gardens : Lost Dome : Baptist on the Rampage (5.10b R)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 28, 2008

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Comments: Dray fell on that bolt and broke it. Has not been replaced yet. I need to put in an application.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : Mr. Magoo Rock : Mr. Magoo (5.10c)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 25, 2008

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Comments: One of my fav's at the Ranch.
Sustained, big grips, steep, super cool moves on bomber sandstone.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Orange Crush (5.9)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 25, 2008

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Comments: Who has 14 draws?
Cool route with a tricky little crux in the middle.
Don't fall on the barbed wire fence.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Gracie's Eight (5.8)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 25, 2008

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Comments: Thin climbing down low leads to a big ledge. From there, step up into a "kind-of" dihedral and move up to a large flake. A couple of cool moves including an undercling or two up high take you to the anchors. Fun 5.8. Probably a truer version of a 5.8 than most at the ranch.


Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ... : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch : The Far East : Horseshoes and Hand Grenade... (5.11a)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 25, 2008

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Comments: Sweet route. Thin, steep climbing with one long move leads to a little easier terrain and a rest before pulling a bulge (big grips) to easier terrain again, then one slabby move to the chains. Classic route at the Ranch!


Location: AR : Sam's Throne & Surroundings : Sam's Throne : East Main Bluff : Hero Maker Wall : Maiden Misery (5.10a)
By: Andy Chasteen When: Jan 25, 2008

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Comments: A good, unsuspecting line. Collins is right, when he showed me Maiden Misery I was thinking to myself "you wasted bolts on this." But it's a fun little line that combines some slab footwork with a steep finish.


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