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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Stoner's Highway (5.10c R)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jun 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brad-
I'm with you. My party and the party after mine both bailed from the second pitch. I've led 11c face in the valley and backed off this. Has a hold fallen off before the bolt on the second pitch?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Outcroppings : Outcroppings - Cave Wall : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Mar 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome, I've always told people i've seen goats out while roped up on technical climbing, now there's a picture to prove it.
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Location: NY : The Gunks : Sky Top : Crash and Burn (5.9+ R)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: this is one to remember: steck salathe, moby grape, lost arrow spire... this is up there.
I was encouraged to write a comment b/c some of my fondest memories are of hiking the lemonsqueeze trail, climbing strawberry yogurt with my dad, supercrack with Ken Nichols, and climbing Crash and Burn. Its a shame to lose these experiences to private property and liability concerns.
Anyway, this climb is memorable, and i'm 6'2" (its harder if you're shorter). Henry Barber had to have jumped for the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : For Desert Rats Only (5.11 R)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: so has anyone else done this route? Its a great outing and the easiest free route up the cirque.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Ascended Yoga Masters (5.10 A0 R)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: steven-
thanks for the info. By directly on the other side of the plateau, do you mean about 200 yards away or about a km away at the pinnacle? Thanks for the info on the descent.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: has anyone climbed the routes on the south face (the face looming over the town). They look fantastic. Any info would be appreciated.
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Location: Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiG... : I love The Winds : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Dec 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flowers on the left are bluebells (mertensia spp) and the flowers on the right are indian paintbrush (castijella spp). The little white head looks like a grass spike flower.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Face (5.11b)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow- What a route. This may be my favorite desert route. I'd give it an 11b, but I have big hands. I would have placed 10 #3's if I had them. We did two 60m raps from the summit. I think this route is much better (and easier) than Fine Jade. Anyone else worried about falling on cams on that final flake?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Ascended Yoga Masters (5.10 A0 R) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what routes are on the S face (the face on the right end of this photo)? They look fantastic.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : The Office : Silent Partner (5.10d)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd give this a pg-13 rating. I was very glad to have some offset aliens with me and I could have used a quiver of rp's. Fantastic and varied climbing though.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cat Wall : Lynx (5.11-)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route. I'd give it 10+, not 11, but lots of great climbing in a long pitch.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Vision Quest (5.10d PG13)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this feb. '08. The block on top of p1 could/should be pushed off - it was a rockin'. There is also a really sketchy block about 40' up p2 that looks like it dropped recently (lots of fresh sand) and if it comes out all the way its likely to cut the rope and injure the belayer - some cleaning is needed. I thought p1 was 5.11 (by the way go lt of the first block and rt of the second), p2 was 5.10-, p3 5.11, and p4 5.8 r/x. spectacular moves at the end of p2 and p4.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: i believe this must be the tombstones at sunrise, correct?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Ascended Yoga Masters (5.10 A0 R) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did the same thing. We made it to the ledge that i believe is on-route and when i looked at the 50' of unprotectable wide chimney that had to be negotiated I downclimbed and walked to the back of the chimney which led to some excellent climbing.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Parriot Mesa : Ascended Yoga Masters (5.10 A0 R) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Feb 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: By my take of the original route description, this section of the climb is off-route, BUT, I would strongly recommend this path b/c it is protectable. I believe the FA party stayed at the mouth of the chimney till a ledge before cutting back into the chimney. Hard to describe this place. Glad to see someone else has had this experience.
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Location: Tea : AVATARDS : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jan 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: BM- So there I was a loper
Kid (pitch fork at throat)- a loper?
BM- you know a professional caddy. And who do you think they give me but the Dalai Llama himself. The twelfth incarnation of the Llama, the flowing robes... impressive.
So he tees one off, and where do you think he hits it? Straight to the bottom of a 10,000' crevasse. Big hitter, the Llama. So we get to the end of the round and he looks like he's gonna stiff me! So I say 'Hey, Llama, how about a little somethin, you know, ... more >>
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Location: camerones : Critters : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jan 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: thats crazy. i've seen a snapper reach its head back to its tail and that one your holding could take a few fingers off.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Dec 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know the species, but it is in the genus Calochortus. There are quite a few species (50+) in this genus in the intermountain west. There may be the Gunison's Mariposa Lily.
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Location: CT : Central- Traprock : East Peak : Ampitheatre : Dol Guldur (5.11 PG13)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Dec 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has been led (by Ken Nichols). It has also been climbed over 50 times in a day (also by Ken Nichols - that's over 4,000' of 5.11+ climbing). This beautiful crack splits a slightly overhanging face for about 65' until ending at a small roof. There is one crux about 15' off the ground, another a few feet later. Continued strenuous climbing brings you to the final sloper above the roof - easier 15' to the top.
At the overlap near the top, you can get a kneebar in and climb straight thr... more >>
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Location: NH : Cannon Cliff : Vertigo (5.9 A0 R)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Sep 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, bolts on the pendi? Someone decided to really change the character of the route.
There is a fantastic 9+/10- finger to hand crack about 30' left of the half moon crack that is fully worth doing (if you've already done the 1/2 moon). It has bomber finger locks in a bulging crack that splits a clean face three pitches up - awesome.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : Predator Tower : Reign of Terror (5.11a) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Sep 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: that's funny, I thought it was a layback!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Pale Fire (5.12b) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jul 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route has some of the most abused rock i've seen anywhere. So many yanked, smashed, and ripped bolts it came me dark visions of the future.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Direct North Buttress (DNB) (5.10b)
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jun 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard that there has been quite a bit of rock fall since I went up this route. Any new beta would be appreciated, I'd like to get up there again. I remember a number of large loose blocks and flakes around the 11th and 12th pitches.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks State Park : Chamber of secrets : Figure 4 (5.10b) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd love to hear what people have to say about these routes - they are awaiting their second ascents. Climb and post.
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Location: ID : Castle Rocks State Park : Chamber of secrets : Down and out (5.11b PG13) : Photo
By: andrew kulmatiski When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ear-shaped formation on the right of this photo would be great offwidth climbing if it weren't filled with crumbly rock and quano. The rest of the rock on this formation is good to excellent.
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