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Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Andrew Klein When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone out there willing to part with 2 tickets still?
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Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Andrew Klein When: Sep 21, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anyone want to sell 2 tickets? Of course, I missed the ticket sale this time around to. My wife and I would love to go.
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Location: CO : Kor Show - Location changed...
By: Andrew Klein When: Sep 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know where exactly you order tickets on the AAC website, all I can find is listings and times? Do you have to be an AAC member?
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Location: OK : Quartz Mountain : Sea of Screams : The Hobbit (5.7)
By: Andrew Klein When: Jul 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first 15 feet is like a flaring seam hand crack you find at Lumpy Ridge, CO. You can jam some small aliens or the like in the way back about 10 feet up. Cheers!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Middle Curtain (WI5-)
By: Andrew Klein When: Feb 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've climbed this in 2004, 2006, and 2007 and it is the best pure water ice line in the Belfry area in my opinion. Some years the curtain dosen't touch down, but it is a 'bit more steeper then the Pencil or Eraser when it does. Cheers.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Andrew Klein When: May 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm 6'1" and the route felt about 5.10a to me. There was always a great bolt right where you wanted it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Boulder Canyon - Ice : Castle Rock/Lower Falls Ice
By: Andrew Klein When: Dec 13, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed The Ramp and Main flow this afternoon, in pretty decent as compared with last year, still a lot thinner as compared with pre-2002, I assume since they fixed the leak a few years ago. The right side of Main Flow is now in and looks like the ice in the bouldering cave may touch down to form some of those short pillars of years past. Now go climb here everybody, so Vail might be a little less crowded!! Cheers, AK.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Mainliner (5.9)
By: Andrew Klein When: Oct 19, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: 70m Beta: Did this route last week in 3 pitches with a 70m. Pitch one: 210 feet to belay on sloping ledge after the face climbing (5.6ish). Pitch two: 220 feet to the sloping ledge to the top of pitch 4 in the low angle area in the original route description. Pitch three: 210 feet to low angled walk-off area. No problems with rope drag as it is mostly straight up. Hope that helps if anyone wants to save some time with a 70m rope. Cheers! AK
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Jackson-Johnson (5.9)
By: Andrew Klein When: Aug 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the variation that Brad B. talks about ([unnamed] crack in topo of Rossiter Guide-Headwall variation 5.8?). The first pitch, is very exposed up and right to a good belay ledge (old TCU and a few ancient fixed pins), the final pitch was loose, mossy and dirty, [definitely] not as memorable as Brad B.'s experience. Anyhow, that's my 2 cents on this variation. Cheers!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Cerberus Gendarme : Touchstone Wall (5.9 C2)
By: Andrew Klein When: May 31, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this as my first wall solo back in early spring 2002 with haul bag, portaledge, and the whole nine yards. The most memorable pitches for me was 5 or 6 where I got my bag stuck under a roof and ended up jumaring inch by inch with the haul bag on my back and the last pitch where I was doing a 5.7ish move about 40 feet up a super sandy slab, no pro, only 5 feet from the top and my right handhold broke off in my hand (Incidently I met Ron Olevsky in the parking lot the next day and he told me... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Andrew Klein When: Apr 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the start of the descent gully on the back of the Duck, you can make it all the way to the ground with 2 60m ropes tied together with plenty of room to spare (~25 ft or so). I wouldn't be surprised with a 70m rope you could fix from the rap gully by the Duck to the top of 8 and beginning of the 4th class to the summit. Fare Well!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Priest : Honeymoon Chimney (5.11a)
By: Andrew Klein When: Apr 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Raps: We rapped the summit to top of Pitch 2, and from there to the bottom with 2 60m (we had to pull slightly harder as it runs over a small lip from the top of 2). Probably should have figured out Josh's method with one 60m or rapped off the back, but it wasn't too bad pulling and we didn't want to go back in the chimney to rap (super windy). Cheers!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Way Nutter (5.9)
By: Andrew Klein When: Mar 15, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed up to the base of the offwidth and it looking painful and all, I led out right to climb a nice little finger crack to a block (which appears to be loose, but is actually quite stable) to a loose ledge and back left to the anchors (this is another option if you don't have a lot of big gear to lead the crack-which isn't that bad using the ledge/face holds on the left). Cheers, AK!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale Gorge
By: Andrew Klein When: Mar 6, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Loch Vale-Everything still in, the main flows are chopped up pretty good and dirty. Mixed Feelings is still in very good, more ice than most years. I'll put in a few pictures under Loch Vale, Mixed Feelings if you want to see conditions for yourself. Cheers, AK!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Racquet Club Area : Racketiers (WI2-3)
By: Andrew Klein When: Mar 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Vail Ice-Bouldered around the Racquet Club Ice a few times after boarding at Vail yesterday (3/2/05). All Vail ice climbs are in, the Fang looks fatter now, but still a lot thinner then previous years. Everything in Designator area looks good. Pumphose and Pitkin are blue and fat. Firehouse ice looks to be in great shape and Secret Cicle (at least the upper part which I could see fromt he road) is in. Hope that helps, Cheers!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Coors Lite (WI2-3)
By: Andrew Klein When: Feb 25, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Coors Lite still in as of last Sunday (did Coors Lite right before Sunset). Water running under the ice on the first pitch. The second headwall section is climable on the right but way chopped and starting to get thinner. Ice on the left and middle looks kind of sketchy (thin with water running). Should be reasonalbe for a few more weeks as long as temps don't get to warm and stays cold at night. Hope that helps, AK.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Clear Creek Canyon - Ice : Little Eiger area - ice : Coors Lite (WI2-3)
By: Andrew Klein When: Feb 4, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Coors Lite this afternoon. It's still good, with plastic sticks. The lower section is in and the right side of the steeper upper section is in. Mostly hooking old placements and chopped up (still good conditon from all the warm weather). Cheers!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Andrew Klein When: Jan 28, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lost Grivel crampons and BD Gemini headlamp somewhere between the summit of Mt. Meeker and the Loft descent. (0n 1/2/05) was going to go back sometime but probably not for another month now. If found, please send me an E-mail andrewdavidklein@yahoo.com and I'll buy you a six-pack of your favorite beverage if you would be so kind. Cheers! AK
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Andrew Klein When: Jan 3, 2005 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Dreamweaver yesterday, Jan. 2nd. Hard-packed wind blown snow in the lower section. The upper coulior (above Flying Buttress) still has ice in the crux bottleneck sections but is mostly all snow with a little mixed to the summit. The summit descent was mostly bare rock and you can glissade down on safe wind-packed snow from right below the ice on the loft descent. All in all pretty good conditions for doing a fast winter ascent with hardly any deep powder albeit a bit windy though.... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
By: Andrew Klein When: Nov 12, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Everything but Scottish Gully and that ice that formed up on the left is in. Some good pillars fomed (go light as they hacked to death and are rendered unclimable with a the traffic) on the right side of the main gully. There were about 15 people thoughout the day from the time i arrived at noon. I am sure the weekends will be less crowded...Enjoy!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Silverton : Eureka
By: Andrew Klein When: Oct 18, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Drove up to Eureka Mine on Sat 10/16 when I was in Montrose last weekend. Stairway (still wet) about 100 ft of thin ice up high. Hwy 66 About 300 ft. of thin ice up high. Thin ice has formed in the gullies on the west side of the road above Eureka (boderline climable). No snow, road dry. Should be something climbable in about in 2 weeks if whether stays sold. Will report when I am back on Nov.6-7. Over and out...
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Firehouse Area
By: Andrew Klein When: Mar 14, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Vail Firehouse area on 3/12/04. Good plastic ice on Lowe Gravity Day. Right side (WI4), thin chopped pillar start to good ice. Middle curtain, about 4 ft. from touching down, makes for a difficult no feet pushup start to good vertical ice (WI5) that hasn't been climbed much. Left side is WI 2/3. Firehouse pillar is thin and chopped at the bottom with a fracture line about 10 ft. from the top (WI4) still solid though. Just Right is a good WI4- section and further right is some easier ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Andrew Klein When: Dec 21, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quick comment. George is right, it is virtually impossible to pull the ropes if you do the super rap of the 3rd. So someone will have to be up there to throw the rope to you, or the last person up must rap one of the other ways (or you could jumar back up for fun and rap the standard way)-Peace
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Bog : Watch your six (V5)
By: Andrew Klein When: Nov 16, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: error
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Maroon Bells : Maroon Ridge (5.4)
By: Andrew Klein When: Dec 4, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this traverse a few years back. Nothing was harder than 4th class, and the 4th class sections were solid when the climbing (downclimbing) was steeper. I do remember spending about 3 hours at around the same elevation on South Maroon trying to find the "Class 3" descent. If it ain't 4th class, you're probably off-route. There were cairns in all the tricky routefinding spots on the ridge when I did it. However, there are quite a few "deadend" cairns on South Maroon which complicate thing... more >>
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