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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Trail of Tears (5.9-)
By: Andrew When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We took the wide crack on pitch 4. You can get a orange TCU in a pod just as the chimney starts to shrink that will protect you through the crux. The finger crack looked excellent and more exposed, but the chimney was super fun and classic in my opinion. Great climb.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Cabin Ridge Rock : Original Route (5.9+)
By: Andrew When: Jul 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ouch....... This climb seriously bruised my ego. I'll have to go back and try to get it clean. Big cams very useful.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo
By: Andrew When: May 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got up here last weekend to check the place out. Very cool place very cool climbing. I was a bit surprised by how close all the main areas where to the highway, but still a beautiful place. We came up on Friday and after climbing found what we thought was a perfect private camp spot. Well as the night went on more and more cars and trucks kept coming down the road seeing us and then turning around and going elsewhere. Just as it was getting dark, a freaking army of RVs, motor ho... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Mellow Yellow (5.8)
By: Andrew When: Apr 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one a couple of weeks ago. I thought the crux was going to be before the ledge halfway up, but it starts at the ledge with some really nice finger crack moves. And yea my buddy asked me if we even needed the rope for that second pitch..... He was pretty glad he had it.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Chicken Legs (5.9 R)
By: Andrew When: Apr 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ahhh.. so that's the deal with this climb. I thought the wide crack was Chicken Legs. I started on top of this climb on the ledge and left a little bit and did what I thought was supposed to be a 5.8 crack and the second pitch to this, but it certainly was not 5.8. Maybe one move of 5.6 or 5.7 and the rest was really easy, with an easy walk off up top.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Ragger Bagger (5.8+)
By: Andrew When: Apr 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. It had been at least seven years since I had been on this route, and I had never lead it. The offwidth is a much different experience on the lead. #1-4 Camalots.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Reefer Madness (5.8)
By: Andrew When: Apr 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, this climb was indeed some VERY nice climbing. Crux was the transition onto the face up top.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Murphy's Dome South Face : unknown 5.9 (5.9)
By: Andrew When: Jun 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a fun route. Some really good stemming up to the crux. The technical crux for me was getting to the second bolt, you can get good gear in before making the moves. The psychological crux was pulling over the lip standing six feet above the fourth bolt.
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any possibility you could get in on any of these meetings and put a word in? You seem to have a pretty sensible opinion on things and since your local??????? I'm sure you would have thought of that though.
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well if that's how it is then that's how it is. It still irks me that this guy was kicking people off land that wasn't his. By the way Mark where are you getting this information?
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: No D.Reed I don’t DIG. I can respect that this guy is pissed off over his house being broken into, I can respect that he is annoyed by obnoxious littering dicks, I can respect that he wants some peace and quite in his lovely mountain home, and I will respect his choice to kick climbers off his land IF this land is his. Because the possibility exists that this is his land I won’t climb here, but if he is claiming someone’s land as his own and kicking people off it that’s not right. Again IF t... more >>
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Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Ordinary People (5.9 R)
By: Andrew When: Jun 19, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are three bolts on this route. The runout to the first bolt isn't that bad, not much for the hands but huge sloping footholds. The crux for me was at the third bolt.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : Jackson Creek Dome : Cold Frize (5.8)
By: Andrew When: Jun 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think the guy in the picture (Steve Marr) is on Cold Frize. I believe that Cold Frize goes straight up the first part of the dihedral (in the beta photo) and directly to the right of the small roof. Small Cams and stoppers. I think Steve Marr is on Alien Elite.
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: FOUND IT! He does not own Sphinx unless he recently bought the land I posted right before this and they haven't changed the county records yet.
http://ww14.co.jefferson.co.us/ats/displaygeneral.do?sch=438>>>>>
It does however look like he has a legitimate claim to over half of Squat Rock.
Disclaimer: I'm certainly not an official source but if you use the GIS features including parcel and satellite photos it's pretty clear to see.
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good Idea Mark D. I went through all this and this is what it said for the Parcel
http://ww14.co.jefferson.co.us/ats/displaygeneral.do?sch=034>>>>>
I don't know how up to date this is. And this Parcel certainly didn't include Squat Rock.
No transactions since 1996. I could see Sphinx in the North west corner of the parcel using the GIS satellite photo feature (can't link the Map.)
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would think that climbers constituted an important part of the non-existent economy in Pine. I know that I stop at the little over priced liquor store up there after climbing all the time, and if the rumors of the new health food restaurant are true you would think It would be a blow to them not have as many climbers around. Not to mention the Bucksnort. This is just really bad news.
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Location: CO : Sphinx Rock and Squat Rock ...
By: Andrew When: Jun 5, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have climbed at both of these rocks in the last month and had no problems, and I know that the person who owns the house next to Sphinx saw us heading up to the rock the last time I was there. I still would like to hear something official.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Leftovers : Captain Fist (5.8)
By: Andrew When: Jun 2, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun route. Although I skipped the upper offwidth section and went left onto Prime Rib, (also some good climbing). Ended pitch one at the second roof but kind of a crappy belay. I just used tricams and stoppers for the anchor. If you have a 60 meter rope, I would suggest going all the way to the second belay as long as you used long enough slings for the first roof. Second pitch was very fun and airy but very soft for a turkey rock 5.8. Definitely want a couple #4 , or #3.... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Ho De Do (5.7+)
By: Andrew When: May 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun route despite the huge ledge in the middle of the first pitch. I would highly recommend doing the start to roll dem bones, although a 9+ it's really only one or two weird offwidthy moves and protects very easily with a #4 Camalot. Second pitch is really nice. Choose between two nice cracks or use them both. Medium sized cams. The second pitch to roll them bones looks even nicer.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts
By: Andrew When: May 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I hadn't been up here in a couple of years... There are anchors everywhere, and every anchor has perfect spots for gear right next to or very close to it. A little disappointing. I'm all for the replacement of existing bolts but this is really excessive and unnecessary.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Lickety Split (5.7 R)
By: Andrew When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just plain fun. The first two bolts just might catch you. The rest are bomber. Top anchors still had no hangers.......... I don't really see the point in taking the hangers and leaving the bolts.... I would second what someone else above said "finish the job". The bolts are more of eyesore now than when they had hangers on them. There's a good natural anchor up top if you bring a couple of long slings.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Bushes of Baelzebub (5.8+)
By: Andrew When: May 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb. First pitch eats up nuts. A #4 Camalot protected the short offwidth section on pitch two perfectly, and I used a red TCU to protect the upper crux. Didn't see the big loose block in the description. Climb seemed a bit slippery in spots.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Zendance (5.7)
By: Andrew When: Apr 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool route. You definitely want a 60 meter rope. I broke my ankle after being belayed off the end of a 150 foot rope here while lowering. I think I cut loose at the second or third bolt and took about a 30 to 40 foot slide into those nasty boulders (easily preventable). The climbing is great, I think I remember placing a nut between the first and second bolt or maybe the second and third but if you're a strong 5.7 leader you shouldn't need to.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Steppenwolf (5.9)
By: Andrew When: Mar 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route! The offwidth was the crux for me, although the hands section got me pretty pumped. Absolutely beautiful moves through the hands and onto the face.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Gobble Up (5.8)
By: Andrew When: Mar 29, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is great. Showed me just how bad my wide crack technique is. It does eat up gear, and, if you're a wuss like me, it will eat up all your gear, and you won't have any big pieces left for the top. It would have been nice to have extra #1-#4 Camalots (if you're a wuss).
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