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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Speed Trap
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Why on earth would a roadside crag in BCC have an alpine feel? The Sundial way the hell above Lake Blanche barely has an alpine feel.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3) : Photo
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doubtful. Those were sawed angle scars that were gnarly. Bolts now so no problemo.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Want to rewrite the Titan page Crusher? You'd d it much better justice than i did.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : Tiki Tower : West Face of Tiki Tower (5.8)
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is a lot of fun, feels more like a small tower than a boulder for sure, and is not a giveaway at the grade. Nice job, and really worth doing on your way back to SLC if you've got some time after climbing in Buckhorn.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : R Crags (Two Finger Canyon)... : Bon Voyage (5.8)
By: Andrew Gram When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best wishes Paul. I've had some great adventures climbing your routes.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell
By: Andrew Gram When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Desert Rock II has some information that isn't on the proj, but it is out of print and i guess is expensive if you can find it.
Guidebooks are a tough proposition for the swell since new routes are going in constantly, it is a huge spread out area, and lots of the climbers there are crusty folks who don't like to share or have never heard of the internet.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : Original Route (5.9 C1)
By: Andrew Gram When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome! Congratulations - I am delighted to see that pitch get freed so quickly.
Which rim did you hike in from? Cane Wash somewhere? The trail approach is really easy.
Did you try the upper pitches?
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Location: UT : Saint George
By: Andrew Gram When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is generally warm enough all winter at the sunny crags.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Oracle : Beak to the Future (5.10 A3+)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jan 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think pretty much everyone realizes that a rack calling for 40+ beaks is most likely not really A2+.
Looks awesome! Love your trip report.
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Location: UT : Grand Staircase : Bull Valley Gorge : Hands of Fire and Ice (5.11+)
By: Andrew Gram When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This looks really cool. Nice job.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Swaseyland : Eagle Rock (C2)
By: Andrew Gram When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool tower in a beautiful place. It would be popular if it wasn't at the bottom of a rough 4WD road.
The two hangerless bolts are a bummer. The first one doesn't have a nut, and you'd deck on a slab if the rivet hanger came off. It should be replaced, or at least bring a nut to thread on the bolt - looks like a 3/8" wedge bolt? The second hangerless bolt is pulling out, and should definitely be replaced.
I wouldn't have believed you could see traffic on the interstate until getting to... more >>
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : San Rafael Knob : Karma's Castle in the Air (5.9)
By: Andrew Gram When: Dec 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is great. No need to aid as it easily goes free at 5.9 with just a few short cruxes. Most of the rock isn't bad with the exception of the chimney just before the top - the rock there is execrable, though it does protect well.
The road in is pretty rough - high clearance 4x4 only. The road has deteriorated some since I was last there 5 years ago.
This tower may have the best view anywhere in the Swell.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Fanghorn Hills : Hrum Hroom (5.7)
By: Andrew Gram When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh please don't bolt anything else on this little spire. Nothing wrong with toproping, and there is always moonlight ridge if you need clipups near Sylvan Lake.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Petrified Turtle Buttress : Cougar Katie (5.8)
By: Andrew Gram When: Oct 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My friend Katie, who is a Washington State alum(and quite a looker) was running a marathon that weekend. Told her i'd name the route after her since i couldn't be there to cheer her on.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - North : San Rafael Canyon - AKA Lit... : Trilobite Tower : Original Route (5.9 C1)
By: Andrew Gram When: Oct 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt ladder wasn't as long as we feared - there were quite a few features so we were able to do a fair bit of free climbing mixed in with it. There are a lot of face features up there - it'll be a very cool free pitch eventually.
You can see all the way through the tower in the chimney. It is a really cool feature.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan : First Practice Wall : The Lost Bolt (5.7)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: He really should have a foot loop rigged to those quick draws too just to be safe.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : The Watchtower : Watchtower Main : Extreme Unction (5.10a)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is like a little slice of the Gunks dropped in the Wasatch.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Japanese Terraces (5.8)
By: Andrew Gram When: Sep 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was pretty nebulous until the last really cool dihedral section. Didn't seem to match up all that well with the topo in the Ruckman guide.
We climbed P1 of Pentapitch. From there, with a 70 meter went to near the end of the rope up the easy dihedral just left of Pentaptich. Belay was easy to set on a small ledge with a tree off to the side and a crack for a directional well above the huge ledge in the middle of P3 of Pentapitch. Forgettable 5.5ish pitch with some loose rock. ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Devil's Castle : Des Teufel's Bollwerk (5.9 Easy Snow PG13)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: An interesting adventure, though the numerous hanging rubble fields limit the appeal to all but the most choss tolerant. I gave it 1 star because there is just so much loose scree and rubble over dirt on almost every pitch, but I did really enjoy the experience. The rock is pretty good wherever it is steep and the climbing difficult - I bet it would be a much better climb with more snow.
We chopped steps up the X-shaped snowfield at the top of the apron with a rock - no need for an ax or cram... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Andrew Gram When: Jul 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anchors on this would get chopped in a second, and rightly so.
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Location: UT : Desolation Canyon : Photo
By: Andrew Gram When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Different Lighthouse Tower Xtine - this thing is way the hell out in the boonies requiring a raft to get to, not the tower along river road.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Cracked Egg (5.11c)
By: Andrew Gram When: May 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The A0 is only on the consensus grade, which is because a couple of folks rated it that in their tick. Nothing to be done unless you want to yell at those guys not to pull on gear anymore(kidding).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Hadrian's Wall : Trajan's Column (5.9)
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not advocating any reinforcing, and I did end up climbing well above the bolt line. Just observing that it likely isn't worth bolting lines that just won't ever clean up.
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Location: UT : Desolation Canyon : Photo
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome! When did you do this? Can you post the info?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : City Creek Canyon : Hadrian's Wall : Trajan's Column (5.9)
By: Andrew Gram When: Apr 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bad rock is less manageable on steeper terrain like this without doing some reinforcing. The hands are reasonably good but I kept blowing foothold after foothold.
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