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Member Since: Feb 25, 2013
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Andrew G
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Point Rank: # 3,529
Total Points: 147
Last Year: 117
Last 30 Days: 6
3 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 366 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 19 | Page Improvements | Comments 32 | Posts 7 | Stars 154 | Ratings 152
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser... : Andromeda Strain (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: This is a significant step up in difficulty from both Autumn and Rock Wars in my mind. Bring as many #2's as you've got!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Remission (5.10b)
By: Andrew G When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: if you've got a 00 master cam, you can get a piece at your chest for pulling the crux move


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Tit Speed (5.11c)
By: Andrew G When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: earns the grade early, then eases up a bit


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Jaws (5.9+)
By: Andrew G When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: Probably spot on at 5.9, but felt harder due to the sustained nature of the middle ~30 ft. Absolutely eats pro anywhere you want. Nice, aesthetic line.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Zag (5.8)
By: Andrew G When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: Pull a few moves to a decent stance, place gear, rest, repeat. Each repetition gets a little easier. Fun climb.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Le Gourmet (5.4)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: It seems like most parties skip the 2nd pitch in favor of Front C and the 4th pitch in favor of Critter Crack. Can't recommend both alternates (5.6) enough!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Nuts and Cherries (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: felt pretty true to 5.6 for me, but the moves were a bit awkward/bouldery. pro was a little funky on a lot of it. you can find it all though, just need to keep looking.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : J Rat's Back (5.12a)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Really fun movement on great pockets. I don't have a lot of basis for this, but seems like it might be a bit soft for the grade.

Update on the location-- there are two bolted lines to the left of J Rat's Back on this section of wall.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: Most of pitch 3 seems hollow, a few head-scratcher bolt placements, and uninspiring climbing movement left me wondering why I climbed this route. Views of the Smith formations lit up by the setting sun answered my question. In summary: less than impressive climbing to very impressive views.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: If only this climb were twice as long, it would be a clear cut 4 star classic. Still good fun though.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Thais (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Full value 5.6, for sure. Great variety on this climb. I ran the 3rd pitch to the gully just below the summit for a ~120' pitch and that worked out fine for me. Rope drag was a little bit of an issue, but not too bad. As Mike mentions, the rock quality takes a decided turn toward chossy for the last 20' or so before the summit gully, but the climbing also dials backs to 5.easy and you can work left to better rock.


Location: MD : Annapolis Rock : Faint's Roof : The Dragon (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: The horizontals through the roof provide ample opportunity to place protection... if you can fight the pump long enough to do so. The crux protects pretty well too lower on the route. Plenty of cracks on the ledge above the route to build a gear anchor with if you don't have long webbing.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Banana (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Shouldn't the flakes be described as right-facing? Fun route, regardless, and tougher than it looks.

And the loose blocks on the upper part of the route are still there.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Mercy Miss Percy (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I did this as a warmup while waiting to get on Fuzzy. The bolt placement is far less than stellar and the climbing movement is not particularly interesting. My partner agreed and so did the two people who hopped on to TR it afterwards.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Another Doug Reed Route (5.11-)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was a really fun line and a perfect alternative if there's a line for Fuzzy. If you work right at the crux, it definitely eases a letter or two off the 11b grade given in the book.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11-)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: If you're tall enough to reach the pinch from the start stone, this route probably goes at ~5.10+. Otherwise, I think it earns its listed grade of 11b. Once you're past the second bolt, it just turns into a pumpy and fun jug haul on mostly huge holds.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Ralph & Bob's (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I did the first pitch as a warm-up while I was waiting to get on Autumn. It was not an enjoyable climb. My follower agreed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Marshall Amp (5.11b) : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: It's over his shoulder, not around his neck. Some people prefer carrying the rope up to the first bolt like that because it can make it easier/quicker to clip if your plan it out properly.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : The Offering (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Short and not particularly interesting except for the final overhung move (or two) to the anchors. The (new-ish?) 5.8 around the corner to the right is a better warmup.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : Bruise Brothers Wall : Critters on the Cliff (5.11a)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, but nowhere near an 11. The crux looks reachy and difficult, but turns out not to be.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Fortress Wall : Calypso II (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Fun warm up. Awkward placement for the anchors.


Location: PA : Southwestern Highlands : Breakneck : Main Wall : (10) Grab Your Balls (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Fun route. I didn't find the bottom to be particularly daunting; the holds are all good. Crux is definitely at the top and well protected.


Location: PA : Southwestern Highlands : Breakneck : Main Wall : (2) Mosquito (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: Kind of a sketchy route. The move up to the first ledge is 5.10 (unless you use the boulders behind you) and probably a ground fall if you don't get it. The crux is after the last bolt and has horrible ledging potential if you fall. The crux movement is great, but otherwise it's a pretty meh route.


Location: MI : Grand Ledge : Mossy Gully (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Sep 15, 2013

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Comments: This would be a fantastic route if only it kept going. Unfortunately, the dihedral/crack widens out to a 4th class gully about halfway up.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : The Trauma (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: I think the best word to describe this climb is 'gross'. The climbing is either easy or awkward, but never challenging in a good way. Most of it is up polished Mission marble. And finally you, reach for a chalked up hold, only to discover there's no hold, and that chalk is actually just bird poop. There are many better lines to be had at the Gorge.


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