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Member Since: Feb 25, 2013
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Andrew G
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Point Rank: # 3,371
Total Points: 159
Last Year: 114
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 394 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 20 | Page Improvements | Comments 39 | Posts 7 | Stars 164 | Ratings 162
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: MD : Annapolis Rock : Sunset Wall : The Dragon (5.10a PG13)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: The horizontals through the roof provide ample opportunity to place protection... if you can fight the pump long enough to do so. The crux protects pretty well too lower on the route. Plenty of cracks on the ledge above the route to build a gear anchor with if you don't have long webbing.


Location: MD : Annapolis Rock : Sunset Wall : Trantor (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Beta alert: see that maybe sloper maybe decent edge that you wish so badly were a jug while pulling the roof? just go for it.

While the roof isn't particularly hard, 5.6 is a bit of a sandbag in my opinion. A green c4 in the pod in the left roof crack protects the moves nicely though.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Hidden Tower : Sail Away (5.8-) : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: You haven't climbed until you've done it with The Duck on your back.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face Variation: La Po... (5.10 X)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Pretty sure he's just calling you out for a superfluous minor variation of a very popular route. Chances are, you are not the first to wander off route through this particular section.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Beer Wall : Celebration Ale (5.11a)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: If you want to avoid the rope drag, you can climb Cerveza Verde first and clip the second bolt on your way down. You may want to leave the first bolt clipped as well to avoid a big swing in case you fall of the (hard) opening moves and then unclip that one.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Beer Wall : Daisy Cutter (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: This would definitely be heady for someone who didn't feel solid at 5.7. Some of the bolt placements are less than stellar. Definitely some novel/interesting movement though for a sport route.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : The Long Wall : Under the Milky Way (5.11d)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Amazing line. Don't forget to soak in the views from the top... assuming you can get past the stupid hard opening boulder problem. After that, the route is delicate and techy, but it's all there.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Graining Fork Nature Preser... : Andromeda Strain (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 8, 2015

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Comments: This is a significant step up in difficulty from both Autumn and Rock Wars in my mind. Bring as many #2's as you've got!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Remission (5.10b)
By: Andrew G When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: if you've got a 00 master cam, you can get a piece at your chest for pulling the crux move


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Tit Speed (5.11c)
By: Andrew G When: May 12, 2015

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Comments: earns the grade early, then eases up a bit


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Jaws (5.9+)
By: Andrew G When: May 7, 2015

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Comments: Probably spot on at 5.9, but felt harder due to the sustained nature of the middle ~30 ft. Absolutely eats pro anywhere you want. Nice, aesthetic line.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bridge Area : Bridge Buttress : Zag (5.8)
By: Andrew G When: May 6, 2015

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Comments: Pull a few moves to a decent stance, place gear, rest, repeat. Each repetition gets a little easier. Fun climb.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Le Gourmet (5.4)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 20, 2015

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Comments: It seems like most parties skip the 2nd pitch in favor of Front C and the 4th pitch in favor of Critter Crack. Can't recommend both alternates (5.6) enough!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Right Si... : Nuts and Cherries (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: felt pretty true to 5.6 for me, but the moves were a bit awkward/bouldery. pro was a little funky on a lot of it. you can find it all though, just need to keep looking.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : J Rat's Back (5.12a)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: Really fun movement on great pockets. I don't have a lot of basis for this, but seems like it might be a bit soft for the grade.

Update on the location-- there are two bolted lines to the left of J Rat's Back on this section of wall.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (6) Northwest Face : Wherever I May Roam (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: Most of pitch 3 seems hollow, a few head-scratcher bolt placements, and uninspiring climbing movement left me wondering why I climbed this route. Views of the Smith formations lit up by the setting sun answered my question. In summary: less than impressive climbing to very impressive views.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (u) Red Wall : Chouinard's Crack (1st Half... (5.8)
By: Andrew G When: Oct 16, 2014

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Comments: If only this climb were twice as long, it would be a clear cut 4 star classic. Still good fun though.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Thais (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: Full value 5.6, for sure. Great variety on this climb. I ran the 3rd pitch to the gully just below the summit for a ~120' pitch and that worked out fine for me. Rope drag was a little bit of an issue, but not too bad. As Mike mentions, the rock quality takes a decided turn toward chossy for the last 20' or so before the summit gully, but the climbing also dials backs to 5.easy and you can work left to better rock.


Location: MD : Annapolis Rock : Faint's Roof : The Dragon (5.10a)
By: Andrew G When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: The Dragon is also listed under Sunset well, where it is actually located


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Banana (5.6)
By: Andrew G When: Jun 2, 2014

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Comments: Shouldn't the flakes be described as right-facing? Fun route, regardless, and tougher than it looks.

And the loose blocks on the upper part of the route are still there.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Mercy Miss Percy (5.9)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I did this as a warmup while waiting to get on Fuzzy. The bolt placement is far less than stellar and the climbing movement is not particularly interesting. My partner agreed and so did the two people who hopped on to TR it afterwards.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Another Doug Reed Route (5.11-)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was a really fun line and a perfect alternative if there's a line for Fuzzy. If you work right at the crux, it definitely eases a letter or two off the 11b grade given in the book.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Fuzzy Undercling (5.11-)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: If you're tall enough to reach the pinch from the start stone, this route probably goes at ~5.10+. Otherwise, I think it earns its listed grade of 11b. Once you're past the second bolt, it just turns into a pumpy and fun jug haul on mostly huge holds.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall : Ralph & Bob's (5.7)
By: Andrew G When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: I did the first pitch as a warm-up while I was waiting to get on Autumn. It was not an enjoyable climb. My follower agreed.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Stratocaster Area : Marshall Amp (5.11b) : Photo
By: Andrew G When: Feb 5, 2014

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Comments: It's over his shoulder, not around his neck. Some people prefer carrying the rope up to the first bolt like that because it can make it easier/quicker to clip if your plan it out properly.


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