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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Lower Breadloaves - Provo W... : Triple Roofs (5.7)
By: Andrew Carson When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few feet above the fixed baby angle, above the roofs, one can also break out right onto the slightly overhanging face and gain a ledge with a two bolts and chains. It's steep but juggy until the last few moves.
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Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : D Crags : The Arrowhead (5.8+ R)
By: Andrew Carson When: Apr 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: From the summit register it would appear that the first and second ascent parties were there on the same day, more or less together... call it one ascent, or call it two, whatever makes sense to you.
Paul Horton and I made another ascent on April 6, 2013, replacing the rap slings on the way down. They were badly hammered from sun exposure, as you would expect. We found the climb a rewarding and engaging intro to technical routes here in the Swell. The first pitch would have been a little ... more >>
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Baxter's Pinnacle - South R... (5.9) : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's an unusual angle... what were you doing over there? :)
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Direct Petzoldt Ridge (5.7) : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice shot... my favorite pitch on the route, right over the Window. Too often people climb around to the side and miss this spectacular but pretty easy stretch.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Potholes Area : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lovely shot; flowers add so much to a day of climbing!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Freeblast (5.11) : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very funny... is everyone in that photo going up?
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Paul, I thought it might be something like that, an upcoming trip... glad not to be 'snowing' on your parade! It does happen... even in the Mojave. Have a great trip. I miss daily access to RR climbing...
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the big storm that rolled through in Dec. '08. Seems like it put down about 16"-18" on the flats.
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Location: MT : Cooke City : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We went back and summited two weeks ago... maybe I'll come up with some more info and a photo or two, when the weather gets crappy. Thanks, G/G, it was fun to get the shot but the fun ended there, that day.
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Location: MT : Cooke City : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: May 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rock? Hmmm, laughable... volcanic brecchia.
And we got stormed off, have to go back.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Omega Buttress : Annals of Time (5.9)
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first two pitches are forgettable. The last pitch is stellar. Perhaps do Dihedral of Horrors, then rap down and do this last pitch. A good day.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Mossy Ledges Area : Pincushion (5.8)
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't be discouraged by the mossy/junky looking start to the third pitch. You can work around the vegetation without disturbing it, or you.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A nice shot that also reveals some serious air quality problems. Reminds of a view from a RR summit, looking out towards Vegas....
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Avalanche Canyon : Matternought Peak : Taminah Arete
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We down climbed to the saddle on the east side of the peak, as described in the guidebook, belaying the pitch that reached that notch, then descended south, on the east side of the arete, to reach the base and start of the route. We didn't like the wet/snowy descent to the north and would recommend at least looking at this option.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Avalanche Canyon : Dem Bones Buttress : Dem Bones (5.10b/c)
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were actively looking for the finishing crux crack but still missed it... very typical Teton route finding issues. Many choices, not an obvious unmistakeable line. This is a good route well worth doing.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Jan 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh my! It certainly brings out the details, doesn't it? I will have to post a pic of the Aeolian Wall in about the same shape... better ice.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Crimson Chrysalis (5.8+) : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Oct 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The extensive retro-bolting of CC has certainly changed the nature of the route. Earlier, a climber was more or less wedded to the crack, wide or not, if he/she wanted pro. Now... as Jorge Urioste put it, "it's a forest of bolts" up there. Having said that, it's still a wonderful climb.
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Location: AK : Interior Alaska/Alaska Rang... : Denali National Park : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Sep 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish I'd known that at the time. It would have been a godsend. I prefer Crazy Glue but your point is totally well taken.
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Location: WA : Leavenworth : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Serpentine Ridge (5.8+)
By: Andrew Carson When: Aug 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a camp at the south end of Colchuck Lake, we thought a descent of Colchuck Glacier was the way to go. What we forgot to do was look at the map and see that there is a sub-ridge that makes a straightforward descent and traverse to the col at the top of the glacier less than obvious. We learned a harsh lesson...in the dark... again. Figure it out beforehand.
We didn't find crampons necessary but this was a big snow year and the snow was soft and pliable. I could easily envision crampons... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Oak Creek Village : Bell Rock / Courthouse Butt... : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Feb 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not that familiar with the Sedona area. What are the snowy peaks in the distance?
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Black Ice Couloir (5.7 AI3-4) : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Sep 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This picture is roughly dated about 1990. It was the third week of Sept., whatever year it was. The Black Ice has come and gone and come again, in recent years, but even in the leanest times it's seen ascents.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Elephant Rock : Elephant Rock - East : Columbian Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Aug 11, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt has been there as long as I've been visiting the City, over 40 years.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Photo
By: Andrew Carson When: Jul 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was growing at the base of Cat in the Hat. We did not eat it, or at least I didn't.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Symmetry Spire : East Ridge (4th)
By: Andrew Carson When: Jul 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is among the most pleasant scrambles in the range. Excellent views, enjoyable upward travel to a real summit. You can also count on the absence of others, for the most part. A route such as this is not in style these days.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : No Perches Necessary (5.9)
By: Andrew Carson When: Jul 3, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Combine this route with Baxter's for a fun day. We traversed west from Baxter's, just below the slabs, but I wouldn't necessarily say it's better than dropping down to the trail and going that way. Staying high is kinda brushy and thrashy, but short. The trail is of course simply mindless walking.
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