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Member Since: Jan 18, 2008
Last Visit: Oct 31, 2014
Contact andjoely


Point Rank: # 719
Total Points: 900
Last Year: 41
Last 30 Days: 0
18 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has andjoely been climbing?










Contributions


All 250 | Routes 42 | Areas 6 | Photos 65 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 13 | Stars 68 | Ratings 21
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Photo
By: andjoely When: Jun 10, 2013

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Comments: With seconds, central pillar, and wild turkey I did a good bit of educated guessing of the line since I have not been on these in a long time. so if you notice the lines are off, feel free to post up in the comments below.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Monster Groove Direct Start (5.12b A0)
By: andjoely When: Feb 27, 2013

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Comments: Some strong person should come free this thing. I really was determined to do so but then got busy with non-climbing things.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : The Glass Menagerie (5.13a PG13)
By: andjoely When: Jul 1, 2012

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Comments: Basically just bushwhack from the top or just above the top east to get to the gulley between the hidden wall and the north face. It will be obvious when you get there because you will see the hidden wall. You can reach the same gulley by bushwhacking down from the tourist trail a couple hundred feet east of the highest point of the trail.

I think I belayed at the end of that traverse off medium cams in the vertical crack. to avoid the rope drag and such so that there was no need to back clean.... more >>


Location: NC : Cathey's Creek Crag
By: andjoely When: Jun 1, 2012

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Comments: Most of the routes stay dry in the rain so it's one of the better spots in the area to climb on rainy days. It's definitely a high quality and locally significant small crag. I really enjoyed the incredibly pumpy climbing there.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : The Funky Chicken (5.11-)
By: andjoely When: Apr 30, 2012

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Comments: Great route! the right hand first pitch is all bolts, no gear and awesome steep slab. the second pitch has got long stretches of huge jugs with lots of horizontals. Highly recommended route along with the 3 other routes on that section of wall right of the hypocrites corner. Thanks for establishing this and so many other great routes at LK recently, Nathan!


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Dillard Arete (5.12b)
By: andjoely When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: I repeated the route recently and I have a few more comments. Be prepared for doing thin cruxes of p1 with your feet several feet above bolts and easy runouts at the start of that pitch. p2 is fun jugs with a tricky crux but there is a half inch bolt right at the crux. The crux of p3 is a tricky and very wierd arete liebacking boulder problem that may be like v4+ or v5 so the rating of 11d is probably a sandbag - 12a or b might be more appropriate, but you could aid or hangdog through it easily... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Route Of The Living Dead (5.10+)
By: andjoely When: Apr 21, 2012

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Comments: incredibly awesome holds on the 2nd pitch and good climbing all the way up. One of the best routes on the cliff to do when most of the other stuff is wet cause this thing drys out almost instantly after wet weather. Highly reccomended.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Finger Lickin' Good (5.10+)
By: andjoely When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Highly recommended route. It's probably 5.8R to the first bolt of P1 but after that the route is pretty well protected. The only gear I placed was an orange TCU on P2 and an assortment of cams up to #2 camalot including hybrids for the first 40 feet of P3.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge
By: andjoely When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: ^No


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Photo
By: andjoely When: Mar 6, 2012

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Comments: I think people have done that before because there was a rappel sling on the tiny pine tree on the ledge atop the 2nd pitch of dillard arete. Watch out and be respectful of the bird nest (raven?) in the back of that crack if you do that variation.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Photo
By: andjoely When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Great photo which really shows how awesome those routes are.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Quantum Mechanic's Arete (5.11+)
By: andjoely When: Mar 5, 2012

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Comments: Awesome! Now there's 3 killer aretes to do in dillard: this one, mechanical bull, and the dillard arete. All dry extremely fast. One could do the arete tour and climb steep aretes all day - quite atypical climbing compared to the stuff on the main face.


Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Slab Area : Battle of the Bulge (5.12)
By: andjoely When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: If anybody has the real name for this route, I will change it. Probably the hardest route on the mountain though definitely not even close to being one of the better ones. Great fun if you've done most of the other routes there though


Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Brick Wall : Julie (5.11a)
By: andjoely When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: Fun moves that are quite different than the typical slopey crimp climbing on the wall


Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Brick Wall : Virus (5.11-)
By: andjoely When: Mar 1, 2012

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Comments: Having done every route on the brick wall many times, I honestly think this one is the hardest. Certainly the hardest moves as it is kind of a boulder problem to easier jug hauling


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Dillard Arete (5.12b)
By: andjoely When: Feb 24, 2012

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Comments: 5th bolt on pitch 3 does exist now.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Sun Wall : The Legendary Nuclear Bomb (5.11b R) : Photo
By: andjoely When: Feb 16, 2012

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Comments: Haha I was just rope soloing the first pitch so we could get the whole route done before the sun hit the wall in summer and Nathan couldn't get there as early as I could that day. I was glad to have Nathan belaying me and suck in an arm length of slack or two when I popped off on the pseudo runout crux of p3 and flipped over. Fun times.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Mennonite Surf Party (5.11+)
By: andjoely When: Feb 14, 2012

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Comments: its been a while but I'm pretty sure there is not gear, but the only runouts are on like 5.5 terrain


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Dillard Arete (5.12b)
By: andjoely When: Jan 26, 2012

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Comments: I will also add that the route can be rapelled with a single 60m rope if one person is willing to rappel off a single 1/2" x 4" Hilti kwik bolt with a quick link on it about 40 feet off the ground (the 5th bolt). The other two pitches are just under 100 feet long. This route is really unique for LK with the overhanging climbing on steep jugs in addition to some stellar pure arete climbing.


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : The Legendary "F" Bomb (5.11)
By: andjoely When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: for reference, it rained pretty heavily saturday night and friday morning but this thing was completely dry by early afternoon on saturday like nearly all grooves on the wall. (The overall cumulative rainfall in the past several months seems to be somewhat low).


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Defective Sonar (5.12a)
By: andjoely When: Oct 19, 2011

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Comments: The diagonal crack eats pro - lots of offset small cams make the protection much more straightforward to place, but it could be done without for sure. You can leave much of the rack at the 3rd pitch belay till you rap back down. I think the 4th pitch has the hardest moves. The poorly protected 5.10- climbing 15 or 20 feet above the 1st pitch belay is the only part of the route that is scary. Certainly one of the best long routes if not the best in the state.


Location: GA : Currahee Mountain : Slab Area : Deprived Child (5.6 PG13)
By: andjoely When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: The direct start (or at least the one I always do) is a cool little boulder problem that starts above the sketchy landing where the rock sticks out just left of a highly eroded area. I would estimate the grade of this start to be about 11b, though the sketchy landing and warm weather can make it feel even harder.


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Southeast Face : Traditions (5.11c)
By: andjoely When: Jun 6, 2011

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Comments: From where p3 traverses extremely far to the right to climb hollow flakes and dirty rock, the best thing to do is continue straight above the bolt, climbing the flared crack that takes good tricams for pro. Continue up to belay from medium cams in a horizontal below a 2 foot roof. On the next pitch, you can climb around the left side of the roof then trend up and right to the base of the crux pitch. The bolts to your left are part of route doctors. This variation is way better than the climbing ... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Groover Variation (Fischess... (5.9)
By: andjoely When: Mar 13, 2011

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Comments: If the forbidden fruit groove is wet as it usually is and you don't fancy getting your ropes soaked and you have a 70m lead rope and a 60m tag line, you can rappel 60.5 meters from the p5 bolted anchor of groover variation finish / p7 of forbidden fruit to the bolted anchor of p4 of the new route fruit of the poisonous tree which is in the groove to 15 meters the left. From there it is 4 straight forward rappels in a groove that never seeps to the ground


Location: NC : Whiteside Mountain : Left of main southeast face
By: andjoely When: Feb 22, 2011

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Comments: It is important to note that all these routes in addition to the headwall routes are affected by the peregrine closure. For some good cragging routes that are open go to the southwest corner area.


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