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Member Since: May 2, 2010
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
Contact Alvaro Arnal


Point Rank: # 466
Total Points: 1,226
Last Year: 230
Last 30 Days: 32
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All (398) | Routes (74) | Areas (19) | Photos (32) | Comments (36) | Posts (110) | Stars (109) | Ratings (18)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: 17 hours ago

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Comments: I agree; the extension to the top of cliff is worth getting on. 5.12a, 8 more bolts to the anchors, a 60-meter rope will barely get you down. Jeff called it "Leapin' Lizards".


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Best in Show (5.12d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: While I feel that no move on this climb is harder than the crux of Black Ball Retriever, the upper headwall is very sustained, and every move feels harder and harder as the pump sets in. Awesome power endurance route!


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Total Eclipse (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 14, 2014

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Comments: BETA ALERT:

Hi, Grand Junction Mike. When you are matched on "hold two", try throwing your left heel up on "hold three", going to the crimp with your right hand and then crank off that heel hook to reach a good hold with your left hand and easier climbing above. It's been a while since I've done the route, but I do specifically remember that heel hook beta, because I remember thinking how crazy it was that I was heel hooking on a hold that's higher than my hands. This is a great route@SEMICO... more >>


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Mar 5, 2014

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Comments: Apparently there's a left kneebar in the middle of the crux that drops the difficulty by about a letter grade. Bring the pad, and this climb is 12-.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: Penitente Canyon in on BLM land and thus is affected by the shutdown. You can climb in the canyon during the day, but all camping is closed: www.doi.gov/index.cfm


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : False Start (5.11d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: This route now has all new bolts thanks to some friendly locals!


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Kinesthesia (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 22, 2013

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Comments: This is a worthwhile route to do while in the area, but as Slim mentioned, the first bolt is in really bad shape. Luckily I didn't fall on it, but as I was lowering, I noticed that the nut was halfway off the bolt. I tried to finger tighten it, but rust on the threads kept me from getting it tight. It was then that I noticed that the bolt is rusted all the way into the rock! Seeing as this bolt protects the crux and is the only thing between a falling person and the ground, it should get rep... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Bedrock : Some Smells Fishy (5.10c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 4, 2013

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Comments: The anchors to this route are placed above the roof on the slab a few feet back from the lip. You finish on the slab to the left and reach right to clip the anchor. If you're setting up a toprope, be sure to extend your slings over the lip to prevent rope drag and wear.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Unspoken Truth (5.12c/d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 27, 2013

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Comments: Wow, the crux undercling move on this climb is super hard, and it doesn't really let up until you clip the last bolt. Fun climb!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : Cookie Puss (5.12c)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 12, 2013

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Comments: I've been on this route a few times over the summer, and I have to say don't let the rock quality keep you off this route. I haven't found any bad rock along the climbing route; the rock is actually quite good compared to a lot of Pass routes and on par with other routes on Olympic Wall. My only qualm on this route is that the bolt that protects the end of the crux is in a horrible location; a quickdraw hanging from this bolt completely covers the crimp that you're throwing... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Headless Franken Chicken (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: Jay has gone back and bolted the section of this route that required plugging gear. No additional gear is required now. I'll update the description.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Pass Walls : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Is this from the old guidebook (pre-Perkins guide)? It's interesting to see some of the differences/inconsistencies between the guides: Unknown 12a = Spring Time Face (5.10d)? Pistol Grip = Crystal Grip?


Location: CO : Independence Pass
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 1, 2013

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Comments: Why? It's not entirely inaccurate!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Mecca Wall and Killer Pilla... : Killer Pillar aka Right Tur... (5.9+)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: I think this route is called "Right Turn Clyde" FA by Jay Brown, Jamie Miller, and MJ Golau.

I've also moved this route into this area instead of placing it in Lower Grotto Wall.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Olympic Wall : False Start (5.11d)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: May 28, 2013

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Comments: The crux bolt (2nd bolt) was really loose when I got on this route over the weekend. I finger tightened it, and it seems ok, but just be aware and check the bolt before you move into the crux.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Main Elk Crag : Limp Lizard (5.12b/c) : Photo
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: All this new routing at Main Elk is great! Thanks for all the work. Was just up there today and noticed the new routes mentioned here and some I'm trying to get info on. Can someone complete this route list?

L to R:
Patchouli (5.11c)
Corn Fritter (5.10a/b)
Giblet Gravy (5.10b)
Fresh Fried Chicken (5.10d)
Fried Lizard Gizzard (5.11a)
Velociraptor (5.11a)
T-Rex (Grade?)
Open Project? (5.13+?)
Limp Lizard (5.12b/c)
Split Lizard (5.10d)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)
New Bolted Route (Grade?)


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Pea Brain (5.12c R)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Apr 5, 2013

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Comments: Hey John- thanks for the history lesson! Seems like the groundfall potential throughout this climb caused it to fall into obscurity as there has been no chalk on it at all in a long time.... Kudos to you and Lynn for getting up it! I have not been on this climb at all, but if it's a worthy line, would you object to having it bolted in a safe way so that it gets some attention? Those original SMC bolts are still in place. There has been a resurgence of climbing on the harder lines at Grotto ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Designer Wall : Home Bruin (5.13-)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Jan 3, 2013

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Comments: As of fall 2012, there are quickdraws hanging from all but the first bolt of this climb. It looks like these have been hanging for a couple of years though as the webbing looks very faded. Consider hanging your own draws if you are going to work this route.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : Speed (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 24, 2012

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Comments: This route is listed at 12a in the guide, but I think it's harder than that. For me, it's certainly harder than Shapeshifter (further down on the cliff) which is a soft 12b.


Location: CO : Glenwood Springs : Pup Tent of Solitude : First Blood (5.9+)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Worst route description ever.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : Forever Young (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: To clarify the location of this route a bit (since a few "new" routes have gone in between this and Candy Apple Grey)- this route is easily identifiable by a high first bolt just below the sloping ledge and by a 4-finger pocket and then a 2-finger pocket on the face below this ledge. For me, the crux was the mantle.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Entrance Area : Forbidden Fruits (5.12a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Nov 4, 2012

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Comments: Yes, the last quickdraw hangs over a pocket for the crux move. However there's another, better, pocket 3 inches to the left of the pocket that's blocked which is just as easy to reach for in my opinion. I really enjoyed this route, and I think it deserves the 12a rating.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Space Your Face Wall : Dazed and Confused (5.11a)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: The 10c pitch on this route is fantastic. I remember a short crux about 2 or 3 bolts up from Printer Boy ledge and then fun climbing with good rests that seems to go on forever! I feel that the second, 11a, pitch should be done to finish on top of Monitor Rock. It's a 1-move wonder slab crux. Once you clip the bolt after the crux wander up and left towards the large dihedral through unprotected terrain. Although scary, the climbing is only 5.6 or 5.7 and if you've made it this far (climbed ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grottos Day Use Area : Nude Buttress : The Naked Truth (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Sep 4, 2012

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Comments: This is a great route! Despite its short length, it's full-on from the first bolt until you grab the jug above the last bolt.

I also feel this route is very hard for 12b. I hesitate to call it 12c, because I don't have a lot of experience at that grade yet, but it certainly feels a lot harder than any of the other Indy Pass 12b's I've done.

Either way - this is an awesome route that's worth the 5 minute walk from Grotto Wall to do!


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Outrageous Overhangs Area : Thindependence : Satanic Mechanic (5.12b)
By: Alvaro Arnal When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: I added chains to the anchor for this route. Previously it was just 2 biners on the anchor bolts, which twisted the crap of ropes when lowering. Anchor biners are in good shape and are now hanging from the ends of the chains so lowering is a lot smoother! Please don't top rope this route directly through these anchor biners.


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