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Member Since: Mar 12, 2001
Last Visit: 11 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 3,781
Total Points: 88
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has alpinglow been climbing?


14 people gave this user's contributions a positive rating.











alpinglow

 
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All (225) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (53) | Posts (162) | Stars (2) | Ratings (2)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: alpinglow When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: While the 1st pitch warrants the prior comments, the rest of the route deserves two hearty thumbs up. The chimney/handcrack, crux corner, and hard 5.8 OW create one of my Black favs. Good rock, a bit short, but worth every second. The approach up to technical climbing may warrant a rope?

Wicked good


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Crack of Delight (5.7)
By: alpinglow When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: I've only been going up to the Diamond for the last 7 or 8 years, so my experience is relatively limited. I have seen much more rock fall EVERYWHERE up there with the receding snow levels the last two seasons.

Given the choice I would rap the Crack Of Delight everytime over the North Chimney. I remember pre-bolted raps, and never having a good time going down the North Chimney. Funny side-note...my first attempt up there I owned no synthetic clothing, had never climbed outside of Lumpy Ridge,... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument
By: alpinglow When: Apr 16, 2003

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Comments: While these days everybody seems to be tearing the brotha Otto down for "chipping", I kind of hold him in high regard for his actions. When was this route put up 1912/1913? This guy was out there before climbing was really climbing doing his thing to get to the top of a rock. Plain and simple. There were no rules, gear, or magazines. He went out by himself (to the best of my knowledge) started at the bottom and did something absolutely visionary.

Why? It probably seemed like a good thing ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Primeval (5.13+)
By: alpinglow When: Feb 7, 2003

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Comments: So, in great deference to my bathooking days, I have imbibed a bit of the cobra...with the venom running in my veins I have this to say....

I think that if you want to generalize (which I feel is valid) dry tooling and chipping, it is only really my front point that does the chipping (thanks Mr. Broskovik (sp?) for bringing this to light).

Bat hooks suck and are really no different than 1/2 inch bolts. Are they different than a chipped hold? Shackboy and I can't seem to reach a verdict on ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Aquavelva - aka Headdress -... (5.9 WI5 M5)
By: alpinglow When: Oct 12, 2002

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Comments: He boys... hate to shit on your daisies, BUT....

My superhero friend and I (he lead), I believe climbed this around Sept 14ish of this year. Sounds very similiar, and we scoped the BOF and POE ice too, but passed it up as it was pretty early in the season.

We have a proverb up here, "If you scope it, Duncan did too...".

Glad you had a good time up there, and I hope the Scotch was as cold as the Scottish conditions.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: alpinglow When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: Always happy to join the feeding frenzy of cyber slag....

So I must have missed something when I climbed this route for it to elicit so much debate.

First, I don't know where the 10a thing came from...5.9 no question.

Secondly, this seems to be a route growing in popularity because of the cover shot, and its natural aesthetics. Fair enough...leave it at that, a pretty looking route. That alone should make some folks want to climb it.

I have lead this thing twice. Both times were somewhat ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: alpinglow When: Aug 11, 2002

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Comments: So it is probably poor style to interject beta on top of this very complete description....But...here are just some more thoughts.

P3...not really sure if it is 5.8, everyone i know yards some pieces.

P4 goes without a #5 camalot, but if you don't bring it you can't use it on the last pitch.

P5 STELLAR!!!

P6- might be uncomfortable in free shoes, but extensive trickery never really hurt anybody.

P8- I would call this A2, but ratings are funny things. Lots of fixed heads if I remembe... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Climb of the Ancient Marine... (5.10a)
By: alpinglow When: Jul 20, 2002

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Comments: This route went before the bolts and Rossiter retroed it? I personally think the crux is just after the first belay. It is stellar, though.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: alpinglow When: Jul 20, 2002

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Comments: This route is really half of an OK route and then equal amounts of choss...climb something else. Midsummer like Brad says.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: The Dirtbag DictionaryGeneral Climbingalpinglow1 day ago
re: Can I climb the Grand Teton next month? Anyone want to join me?Colorado & Rocky Mountain RegionalpinglowMar 28, 2013
re: Las Vegas, Reno, or Bozeman for grad school?NevadaalpinglowMar 21, 2013
re: RMNP Avy Death....Colorado & Rocky Mountain RegionalpinglowMar 21, 2013
re: Potrero Chico news...General ClimbingalpinglowJan 30, 2013
re: Giving it all up for a simpler lifeGeneral ClimbingalpinglowNov 10, 2012
re: Great Experience(s) with Fixe HardwareClimbing Gear ReviewsalpinglowAug 2, 2012
re: My Chariot to the Bugaboos - 7/26 - 8/9Colorado & Rocky Mountain RegionalpinglowJul 23, 2012
re: Bad customer service experience with Fixe HardwareClimbing Gear ReviewsalpinglowJul 20, 2012
re: Rigging jobs in Las Vegas - How to get started?NevadaalpinglowJul 20, 2012
re: walkie talkies for communicating with an out of sight climberTrad ClimbingalpinglowJul 19, 2012
re: Who else has fallen while soloing?General ClimbingalpinglowJul 15, 2012
re: Mt. Charleston Guide Book?NevadaalpinglowJun 11, 2012
re: deep water soloing in colorado?Colorado & Rocky Mountain RegionalpinglowMay 1, 2012
re: graffiti at base of Johnny VegasNevadaalpinglowMar 25, 2012
re: Red Rock threatened by developmentNevadaalpinglowAug 17, 2011
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