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Member Since: Mar 12, 2001
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact alpinglow


Point Rank: # 4,600
Total Points: 77
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Areas are worth 15
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All (217) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (5) | Comments (42) | Posts (165) | Stars (2) | Ratings (2)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Sensuous Mortician (5.9)
By: alpinglow When: Sep 3, 2006

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Comments: SPECTACULAR!!!!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Resolution Arete (5.10 A1)
By: alpinglow When: Mar 31, 2006

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Comments: I vastly underestimated the hike off. My suggestion for a rack.

Single Tiny cams, doubles from older version BD .5 to 3, one old 4 camalot. I placed no stoppers, but that doesn't mean squat.

Good times...US classic, imho.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls
By: alpinglow When: Feb 26, 2006

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Comments: 2/26/06
Three fun little flows are left of the usual far left WI2. 30-40 feet? The far left line was rowdy, and other two were virgin. Unreal to get freshies at Hidden Falls.

The Dangler is in, and is visible at the far right of the beta photo marked 2/19. Approach directly via the R facing corner and wide crack above. M6? I thought it was really fun.

More exciting was the fresh ice...


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Blood Feud (5.12c)
By: alpinglow When: Sep 1, 2005

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Comments: Hate to say it ....but Blood Gauge looks good...


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: alpinglow When: Apr 26, 2005

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Comments: Cheers Alan,

Nice send. A buddy and I put a watchless push on this back in college, in our assumption, just a touch past 24.

Haven't heard of anyone else doing it in a day, but these days there are too many hard dudes to say.

Again, nice send.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: alpinglow When: Oct 5, 2004

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Comments: Curious if anyone has climbed the Enos Mills wall in the last decade? Didn't Ken Sauls and Johny Allen climb it last winter?

Do you still need iron for the top? Isn't there a bivi ledge on it?

Can consult my guidebook, just thought maybe someone had some first hand beta.

Cheers


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Blitzen Ridge (5.4)
By: alpinglow When: Jul 6, 2004

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Comments: Just climbed this for the first time a few days ago, hopefully won't be the last. What a wonderful day. All of the above comments are true.

That ridge just didn't stop. Great vistas of the Y couloir, and that big cornice!

A great alpine outing in RMNP with all the fixins.


Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Sentinel Spire : Fast Draw (5.10)
By: alpinglow When: Apr 5, 2004

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Comments: Nice that you could give this route a grade while "on rappel". While the bolts do seem extraneous (sp?,sry) with modern gear, maybe you should just give Layton a little jingle on the phone and tell him how light he is. Different eras, different tactics.

A fun climb, not overly classic, but a cool summit. Have done it both ways on first pitch, prefer to traverse left.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall
By: alpinglow When: Mar 3, 2004

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Comments: beta for Air Voyage...

climb up slab,continue up much wide and thin, when crack ends move left and climb really wide then crawl right...hopefully on rim before dark

gear to 2 inches


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Vail Ice : Spiral Staircase area : Secret Probation (WI5 M6-7)
By: alpinglow When: Jan 31, 2004

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Comments: Craig's day has a good bit of driving in it too, doesn't he live in FC?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Blue Mesa (near Gunnison)
By: alpinglow When: Jan 20, 2004

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Comments: If you drive just a bit past the private property you come to a drainage that meets the highway. I have hiked this all the way to Curecanti Needle. Some crags back there, public access to the ice, and a long slog to Curecanti.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Twin Owls : The Cavity (5.9 C3+)
By: alpinglow When: Jan 1, 2004

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Comments: Clean? WOW, nice work Senor Paco.

You haul a crash pad up there?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Emerald Lake / Tyndall Gorg... : Nymph Lake : Get a File (WI5- M7-)
By: alpinglow When: Dec 24, 2003

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Comments: Bernard

I TR'd this a few times 2 seasons ago, and lead it that same day. No ice that day, just really wet.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Ironclads : Punk Rock : Tuition Dollars at Work (5.11c)
By: alpinglow When: Jun 9, 2003

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Comments: Needs a second bolt at the top. I don't remember Shawn being there that day.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon
By: alpinglow When: Jun 2, 2003

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Comments: Mr. Allen

I can appreciate your consternation for developing these routes, and then seeing them published as something else. However....your tone and candor do not bely the ever humble dude you are trying to come across as. Have you ever met Mr. Gillett? He, IMHO, is a very reticent and active hardman across the Front Range. I have never known him to self aggrandize or promote that which is not true. I'm sure he nosed around for FA beta about this stuff. Like he said, if it really mattere... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: alpinglow When: Apr 29, 2003

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Comments: While the 1st pitch warrants the prior comments, the rest of the route deserves two hearty thumbs up. The chimney/handcrack, crux corner, and hard 5.8 OW create one of my Black favs. Good rock, a bit short, but worth every second. The approach up to technical climbing may warrant a rope?

Wicked good


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : Lower East Face : Crack of Delight (5.7)
By: alpinglow When: Apr 21, 2003

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Comments: I've only been going up to the Diamond for the last 7 or 8 years, so my experience is relatively limited. I have seen much more rock fall EVERYWHERE up there with the receding snow levels the last two seasons.

Given the choice I would rap the Crack Of Delight everytime over the North Chimney. I remember pre-bolted raps, and never having a good time going down the North Chimney. Funny side-note...my first attempt up there I owned no synthetic clothing, had never climbed outside of Lumpy Ridge,... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Primeval (5.13+)
By: alpinglow When: Feb 7, 2003

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Comments: So, in great deference to my bathooking days, I have imbibed a bit of the cobra...with the venom running in my veins I have this to say....

I think that if you want to generalize (which I feel is valid) dry tooling and chipping, it is only really my front point that does the chipping (thanks Mr. Broskovik (sp?) for bringing this to light).

Bat hooks suck and are really no different than 1/2 inch bolts. Are they different than a chipped hold? Shackboy and I can't seem to reach a verdict on ... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Aquavelva - aka Headdress -... (5.9 WI5 M5)
By: alpinglow When: Oct 12, 2002

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Comments: He boys... hate to shit on your daisies, BUT....

My superhero friend and I (he lead), I believe climbed this around Sept 14ish of this year. Sounds very similiar, and we scoped the BOF and POE ice too, but passed it up as it was pretty early in the season.

We have a proverb up here, "If you scope it, Duncan did too...".

Glad you had a good time up there, and I hope the Scotch was as cold as the Scottish conditions.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: alpinglow When: Aug 15, 2002

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Comments: Always happy to join the feeding frenzy of cyber slag....

So I must have missed something when I climbed this route for it to elicit so much debate.

First, I don't know where the 10a thing came from...5.9 no question.

Secondly, this seems to be a route growing in popularity because of the cover shot, and its natural aesthetics. Fair enough...leave it at that, a pretty looking route. That alone should make some folks want to climb it.

I have lead this thing twice. Both times were somewhat ... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: alpinglow When: Aug 11, 2002

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Comments: So it is probably poor style to interject beta on top of this very complete description....But...here are just some more thoughts.

P3...not really sure if it is 5.8, everyone i know yards some pieces.

P4 goes without a #5 camalot, but if you don't bring it you can't use it on the last pitch.

P5 STELLAR!!!

P6- might be uncomfortable in free shoes, but extensive trickery never really hurt anybody.

P8- I would call this A2, but ratings are funny things. Lots of fixed heads if I remembe... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookend : Climb of the Ancient Marine... (5.10a)
By: alpinglow When: Jul 20, 2002

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Comments: This route went before the bolts and Rossiter retroed it? I personally think the crux is just after the first belay. It is stellar, though.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Leisure Climb (5.9)
By: alpinglow When: Jul 20, 2002

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Comments: This route is really half of an OK route and then equal amounts of choss...climb something else. Midsummer like Brad says.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
Another campground speeder in Red RocksNevadaalpinglowFeb 18, 2014
re: Community ForumalpinglowJul 13, 2013
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