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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Bridge Wall North (Practice... : Safety in Numbers (5.11 A3)
By: allen simons When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, thanks for the bit history. F. A. information is pretty lacking save you, Jeff, and Jim Disney. It would be great to talk sometime and document what you know of the history of climbing in the Big Thompson canyon. It is a mildly popular place to climb now days sporting over 70 routes in the narrows alone. Any chance you have any pictures to post? Allen
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Beak (5.11a)
By: allen simons When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bert, your probably the first one to climb Sparky's with the additional bolts Iadded on Wednesday. It was a little more serious undertaking before that (direct start now has 5 bolts to the first chains instead of 4). Not quite so run out now. Allen
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Sparky's Cooler 5.8 or 10a (5.6) : Photo
By: allen simons When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This photo is just after leaving the second belay. As of yesterday, there is now a bolt a few feet below my feet in the photo. A bit safer on 5.7 ground. Allen
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Beak (5.11a)
By: allen simons When: Nov 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch four now sports 4 bolts. I added 3 yesterday. One can now take the water polished runnel straightforward at 5.8 or so. In addition to that, 4 bolts were added to the original Sparky's Cooler line and one to Sparky's Direct. Allen
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Ivy League
By: allen simons When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No established routes on Ivy left yet. it is a short wall with some cracks and bouldery faces. Maybe only 45 feet tall.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Ivy League : ... : Thinline (5.11+)
By: allen simons When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have posted this because after working it several times, I cannot even top rope it yet. If I haven't nailed it by November, it can be an open project, I'll rename in on MP if someone else leads it and gives it a name, but I'm calling it Thinline for now and you will see why if you get on it. Multiple hard moves in a row through the 15 foot crux and clipping the third bolt might prove way hard for some.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Beak (5.11a)
By: allen simons When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks to Bernard for taking in this project. The 3rd pitch crack is stellar. Very sustained clean climbing up the crack. I had top-roped this 10-12 years ago with no falls/hangs and thought it to be a fine pitch worth the effort. alas, in my old age I was only able to follow Bernard on this pitch with multiple hangs. The rest of the route is also good with varried types of climbing skills needed. I will get up there and add some bolts to the final pitch (1 bolt in the entire pitch), (5.6),... more >>
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Location: International : Mexico : Tulum
By: allen simons When: Oct 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry to ruin it for you there fella.
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs
By: allen simons When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dustin, I appreciate the response and answer. I just felt very unwelcome in the area. I should not have let the attitude of one person get to me but I did. And for the record, My home ground of the lower Big Thompson is a lichen infested choss haven, yet I love to climb there just as you love your crags. I would swear, however, that the shop did advertize some guiding/climbing classes/ect, but I have been wrong before. All I really wanted was a guidebook so that my wife and I could come back ... more >>
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Location: CO : Steamboat Springs
By: allen simons When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Went into the local climbing shop hoping to contribute to the local economy and hoping to get a guide book of some sort to the area. Steamboat is a beautiful area, town, and the thought of camping and climbing there sometime seemed appealing. The climbing shop was a disaster. Very unorganized, discheveled, unclean place. When I asked the shopkeeper about a local guidebook she said there wasn't one at the store, maybe another store (not to be mentioned) would have a copy of the old pink guide. ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: allen simons When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Tim, it does help as did Bernard's topo he listed. Great stuff here.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : White Dike Area : 1976 (5.9- PG13)
By: allen simons When: Sep 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I''ll have to give these new climbs a go. Why the name "1976"?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Out Of Time (5.11)
By: allen simons When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description is good. Easy climbing that gradually gets more difficult culminating at the crux. Another fun route.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Mary's Jugs (5.7)
By: allen simons When: Sep 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun little route. Did not feel 5.7 to me but still, solid rocks, good holds, mix of shade and sun on pretty solid rock. Very fun.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : The Bridge aka Cave Rock : V0 (V0)
By: allen simons When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The rating on this depends on where you start the climb. In the old days there was a large flake ( somewhere in the areas of the climbers feet in the posted photo) you could start on that and the climb was concensous 5.9. That 2 foot flake broke off (unknown who) around 1995 making for a lower (deeper in the cave) sit down start. if you crawl in the cave and do the sit down this is rated V2. Allen
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte
By: allen simons When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tom, am I wrong about the john gill thing? seems his name shoule be the fa on most of these routes as the originol high ball boulderer.
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Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : The Thimble : The Thimble (Backside) (5.6 R)
By: allen simons When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a clasic. Dont know if it is nerves or what but this felt 5.6 both times i have been on it (1995 and 2008). At any rate, with zero pro this is a serious undertaking. I would say be sturdy at 5.6 since it is a solo with a rope trailing to get off the top. once your on top, youll feel better.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon
By: allen simons When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Liz, good work. I have espied that rock from a distance for some time. You may be the expert on it at this point. If you get a chance, list the routes, and describe them. I have never climbed on that rock but will have to get up there this fall. Allen
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon
By: allen simons When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Liz, can you be a little more specific regarding the location. That being said here are a couple of ideas. From the Crosier Mountain trailhead (the first one west of Drake on the Glenhaven Road), there is a slab about a mile up the trail, right next to the trail. Back in '96 or so I put up a couple of lines on lead, very few bolts if I recall. There is a bolted anchor in a dished out face there. I thought it 5.8 or so and called it "Sunday Outing". There is a crack to the left a ways that ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock
By: allen simons When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Depends on what part of the slab you are on. Been 3 or 4 years since I TR'd the rock, but I remember the harder routes (mostly center and right center) had very spotty gear.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : Photo
By: allen simons When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent topo, very nice.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : White Dike Area : The White Dike (5.7+ R)
By: allen simons When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Judging by the photo, it looks like you guys were using the left wall. I think this is the way most people approach this route making your rating pretty close. If you want a thrill sometime, climb just the white rock on the dike omitting the stuff left and right. I think you will find my 5.10 R stiffer grade accurate. For the record, I have just rope soloed that way, I have not led it that way. Allen
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: allen simons When: Aug 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: When I posted Mary's bust several years ago, I didn't imagine all of the activity that is sees today, though I realized the rock's potential. It is great to see. Bernard, thanks for the recent work and photos. To everyone else who have labored establishing routes, kudos to you also. Two quick things, both in the form of requests. I was reading the route location of dynamite which states "20 feet right of "another route" So I went to "another route" and it states "20 feet right of "another n... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park
By: allen simons When: Jul 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I know, but those ACs guys are still out there and not just at Vedauwoo. I just like to point the ACs out onece in a while. By the way, thanks for attaching a name to your comment.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Jurassic Park
By: allen simons When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Several comments. 1. Great place to climb, nice hike that takes you away from waiting in line to climb on Walt's Wall. 2. Instead of bickering about the names, why doesn't someone provide the history and correct names. This "Colorado" vs. "Wyoming" climber thing is beyond old. 3. This is America, all are entitled to their opinions. Anyone who doesn't sign their name to their comments or opinions is a faceless instigator that just stirs people up. Enough of the Anonymous Coward stuff alth... more >>
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