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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Fin : The Dorsal Fin (5.10d)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Note: the two Lost Arrows on the second pitch are lose and should be trusted. The pins should be replaced with thicker Lost Arrows which will maintain the historic aspects of the climb. (I.e. do not replace the pins with bolts!!!!!!!!).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Up A Cliff Without a Ladder (5.11a)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: NOTE: as of September 2009 the pin midway up is gone. There is a good TCU placement near by that affords protection. As such, take 2-4 TCUs for protecting this area as well as the upper area that also requires a TCU.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : Ford - Stettner Couloir (Sk... (WI2-3 Mod. Snow) : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Glencoe Col.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Albion Basin : Cecret Lake : Green Stash Wall
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the west side of Cecret Lake the trail heads up towards the Sugarloaf Lift. Rather than hiking up the scree from the bottom take this trail up to Cecret Pass and then traverse over to the wall. Not only is it easier but much less prone to erosion. A few more routes were added in the summer of 2008 plus we discovered a long forgotten route.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It should be noted that the Black Peeler Buttress and environs is on land owned by Perpetual Storage. The same respected for the property should be given by climbers as the adjacent private land (ie. the Gate Buttress and the LDS Church).
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Location: AK : Denali NP : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4) : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jan 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The ramp opened up in 1999 and when we went through it in 2000 only the top 10' posed any real problem. Which was not much of a problem.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Kermits Wall and Perhaps Ar... : Perhaps Not (5.11c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The R rating came from the climb being done sans bolts on the FA. I can not remember when the bolts were added but IRCC Stuart added them.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ferguson Canyon : Goldenfingers Wall : OtherWorld (5.4)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Careful where you climb, I hear this fucker will go for your nuts when you are not looking.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A few comments from the peanut gallery: I disagree that what is being done has anything to do with culture or history. Some of the analogies presented are beyond ridiculous. It is simply a practice so that potentially lost folks can figure out what climb they are standing in front of. Or very simply put, these are just freaking road signs. Nothing more.
What has been done is nothing new as it has been done in various ways at climbing areas in the USA. I have seen the name painted at the base of... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (Choose To Rage) (5.10b)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think I am going to call this Chose To Remove. Haha. I was up there over the weekend and saw another luker come off. This time though it instead of making a hold, one was removed. I saw the potential for a couple more.
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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon : Elgin Wall
By: Allen Sanderson When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark, like you my memory fails me even though I climbed there as well. A friend from my days in Corvallis has a nice page on the area (as well as many others):
http://people.whitman.edu/~pogue/climbing/rockwall.html
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Location: AK : Denali NP : Mt. McKinley : Cassin Ridge (5.8 WI4)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The description in Joe Puryear's book is problably one of the best and one that I highly reccomend to folks. I wrote a narrative of our trip in 2000 that seems to popular:
http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/info/ice/mk-allen.html
Probably the most interesting part is that of the vast majority of folks who come to Denali planning on doing the Cassin Ridge never get on it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Flashdance (5.11c R)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: More history - this actually the original finish to Pentapitch. So the FA using aid should be Rick Reese, Dick Ream, Lloyd Anderson, 1963, with the FFA George Lowe & Paul Andersen, 1966. The pins were probably placed by Reese. (Source Rick Reese).
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : Insane in the Brain (5.11b/c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 21, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Greg,
What do you mean by the anchors can be flipped over and continued to be used? If they are chains and the last link is worn it should be removed as it is now the weak link in the system. Flipping it or all of the section of chain will not make any difference. So I could use a little clarification by what you mean. Thanks for moving your other anchors down.
Cheers,
Allen
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : Insane in the Brain (5.11b/c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Under no certain terms did I say "take out the chains altogether" that is an order, nor was what I said "passively malicious"
What I said was - "PERHAPS the original chains should be removed,"
From the dicitionary:
perhaps |p?r?(h)aps| adverb
• used to express uncertainty or possibility
• used when one does not wish to be too definite or assertive in the expression of an opinion
• used when making a polite request, offer, or suggestion
All three of the above apply to the statement.
Shee... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool, I was thinking about this last week as well and wondered about the best way to revise an area into better subsections. Thanks for taking this on James and Andrew for moving things around. I too think it nice to see all the new activity and there are some good routes going in. It got me off my butt to start sniffing around for the first time in years. Better route descriptions especially with references to routes that are already in the book(s) would be helpful. Also be great if folks spell... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : Insane in the Brain (5.11b/c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original route has not been changed in any shape or form. Reread the post. More climbing has been added above nothing more and nothing less. Only the sling which was weathered baked garbage that could not be trusted was removed. The "third" bolt and hanger are still there - and are used to protect the crux moves on "Reality Check" (nicely I might add).
If the anchors with chains are that suspect or not of the proper length why has this not been noted until now? This revelation is rather bot... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 2 : Insane in the Brain (5.11b/c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line originally ended about 80 feet up at a hanging stance with three anchors (two with chains) below a bulge. Recently, another bolt has been added above the anchors that protects moves over the bulge to the chains on Deja Vu. This extension is called Reality Check and makes the line 5.11+ (maybe harder for shorter folks). If climbing Reality Check, a 60m rope is necessary to lower off the Deja Vu chains. Perhaps the original chains should be removed, since they seem to unnecessarily b... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Flying Buttress : Storm Watch (5.10b/c)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Typo it should be Storm Watch - which what we did as we climbed the route. Watched a storm roll in. We built our own belays and then rappelled from over to the northeast of Thin Man. As I remember, they were bush raps and we left a few slings. For some we went over to the dead snag above "Lichen It"
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Flying Buttress : Flying Buttress Route (5.10b)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: James,
Thin Man is to the right of Penny Arcade. As I remember, the two route kiss at one point. I can not remember which pitch it is though. Too long ago. In conversations with Merril they did not finish it, probably wanted to but we snuck past them. The interesting part is that up high by the penny we found an old pin the had the initals IOD or perhaps JOD. I often wondered if the pin belonged to Jim Dockery.
But yeah lots of rock but very thin seams.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Hellgate Cliffs : Tower 1 : Cheap Thrills (5.11a)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Sep 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would agree that it is harder than 5.11a. We also found the route to be flithy dirty. No way would it be worth the stars in the condition we found it. YUK!!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : cTr (Choose To Rage) (5.10b)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 22, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have not been on it since too scared :D. The grade is still within the 10b range with some more traffic any more lurkers will come off. I think it is the case of some people going one way and some going another so everyone finds a surprise now and then.
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Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Grand Teton : East Face Direct (5.9+)
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cause it goes directly up the face. HA HA. Here is a picture of the face.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/wyoming/grand_teton_nationa>>>>>
It is just to the right of the thin set of black streaks that are to the right of Keith Eddy and lead to down to the rather small snow patch.
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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Covregas try having a little patience you might be surprised. Perhaps not. Also instead of making inflamitory posts try a simple - "Hey I hope you are going to add routes to these areas. It would be great if you do because I have wondered about the climbing over there. We seem to be having a problem with people starting new areas to the Oregon section but not adding routes to them".
If you spent any time looking the other areas I have added to mountain project you might find that I have tried ... more >>
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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon : Anthony Lakes - Old to be R...
By: Allen Sanderson When: Aug 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is granite bouldering. We did some above Hoffer Lake as I remember (it has been a long time - 20+ years ago). One boulder I remember had a fun face 10-15' high with a nice flat sandy landing. Just have to poke around. The current locals have put much more recently.
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