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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : The Pot Holes Area : Ghost Dancer Spire (C1+) : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: We'll bring a crow bar.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : The Pot Holes Area : Ghost Dancer Spire (C1+) : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Jason! Do you want to go back out with me and Chuck in the next month or so?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Supremacy Rock : Supremacy Crack (5.11b)
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: More stories, Pat!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome : Face Value (5.9)
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: First ascent, Dave Bell and I believe his brother Chris, and Byron Nelson. I found some slides the other night from a mass ascent by drunken Colorado College students in the early eighties. Perhaps I'll put a few up, as several of those students lurk around here.
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Location: CO : North Table Mountain Adopt-...
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the report. That's too bad about the bat on the cable, Julie made that one. That same week the kids did trail work with Bryan Becker via the Rocky Mountain Field Institute. It was a fun week and Steve Wood and his Concrete Couch non profit pulled it all together.
On another note, I'll send some S. Platte photos to you this week at some point.
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Location: CO : North Table Mountain Adopt-...
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How's the kiosk art holding up Jason? My wife's students did the art. I haven't been up there since the day it was installed.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A famous big wall climber and gun freak shot his initials into a face here using a fully automatic rifle in 1983. He shall remain nameless.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Christine's Dream (5.12)
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried to do this the day after my 18th birthday. The night before was spent with Doug Scott, as he continued his tireless mentoring of me in the ways of woman (I got slapped that night, much to Doug's delight), wine, and other important elements of being a good dirtbag climber of that era. Well, the climb didn't go too well. Way ahead of its time. Phil must have been firing on all cylinders the day he climbed it.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : First Buttress : The Upper Wall : Dunn's Dihedral (5.8)
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a quality route. I always felt it was harder, a solid nine.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Coffin Crack Crag : Coffin Crack (5.11-)
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Robert certainly has climbed it, but it was done before Robert showed up in Gunnison, at least I think so. I was always under the impression that Rosolt did the first ascent. Phil will know for sure.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Thin to OW Crack 1 (5.0) : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember leading this in the Fall of 1980 on nuts only. It was terrifying. I think it was first climbed by Bryan Becker a few years prior. I could be wrong though.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Bikini Buttress Area : Unknown Hand/Fist Crack (5.0) : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a funny story about a fully automatic rifle playing into one of Chuck's hardest routes in the canyon.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Interiors (5.9-)
By: Allen Hill When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This one topped out. Much harder climbing higher up. Old school 5.10.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : The Pot Holes Area
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Glad you're still with us, Jason. This route is classic Paul Ross. Speaking of Paul, we should get out to The Swell. I love climbing there, and it's devoid of other climbers.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Texas Finger Crack (5.10+)
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually Chuck led it, Craig was certainly there that day taking pictures of Chuck climbing this monster using the very first generation of Big Bros. One of those pictures was used as a ad for the climbing magazines. I'll scan one of those ads and post it here.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Escalante Canyon
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We always climbed to the rim and never placed a single bolt out there. Same with our big Indian Creek FAs. Chuck has never placed a bolt in over thirty years of climbing. Chuck's getting into shape, watch out bolters! Phil, that's funny about Charles eating these idiots for breakfast.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Top Of The World : Chair Rocks : ... : Thin Ice (5.12c/d)
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jason, Dave Bell, who did the first ascent called it A3 I believe. When we freed it we added a bolt and a fixed pin. (with Dave's blessing) With those in place and a slider nut made it plenty safe. It'd be C1 now. I might have used a large RP as well. Remind me to tell you the story of when and how I became obsessed with free climbing it. Lets get out in the next couple of weeks.
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Location: CO : Uncompahgre/Big Blue Wilder... : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Scott, is the fellow with the beard a young Jimmy Newberry? I heard from a reliable source he's taken climbing back up. What a great guy. He literally changed my life when I was 17 years old.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks so much for this! I know a little known story regarding the train trip up the river and Ellingwood's ascent of the Bishop.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken, this route looks fantastic. The photo on your Facebook is something else, but man these are great. I must do this route. Thanks to Crusher and Strappo for finding it.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: He wrote a very extensive article on his work on the Diamond that was also a plead for climbers to tread gently when climbing there for Climbing magazine. He actually discovered a never before seen variant of a primrose, (I think a primrose) that was exclusive to the Diamond. He was a interesting guy. He cowrote the first comprehensive guide to Lumpy Ridge as well. I was in junior high at the time he was most active and when I'd see him at the Surry (remember the Surry Olaf?) I was always overwh... more >>
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Location: Robert 560 : STUFF : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: offensive
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : Coffin Crack Crag : Coffin Crack (5.11-)
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite route in Taylor Canyon.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome
By: Allen Hill When: Oct 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best roadside rock in the Platte. Not really roadside, close to it. The granite is bullet.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Photo
By: Allen Hill When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's wide at what looks like the third pitch that's for certain.
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